divinefist81

i couldnt find the write-up anymore on rotary Resurrection site so im asking if you guys have a link provided. I cant tell what size the cables are sause theyre wrapped up on the factory Tape.

I heard to get to the Ground cable Bolt (negative) you have to remove the Driver side Fender. with a 10MM socket not sure where i go with RED +

appreciate the help thanks

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

well its not much fun to replace the cables, but it is pretty straightforward

the cables sit in a plastic channel, with the rest of the harness and its bolted to the car in two places. (red arrows)


so you need to unbolt the fuse block, those two bolts, and all of the other connectors, and then the harness will wiggle out of the car.

then you can unwrap it, replace cables, and re wrap it.

divinefist81

thanks for the heads up. thats a nice picture you got there. is it for sale

divinefist81

actually whats all the other connections for? i see the radiator sensor (Black) and the negative -- boot i dont know what the other white switchs are for and that other bkack one close to the driver fender.

Hot_Dog

Starting at the lower right hand corner and going CW:
Black connector for starter solenoid.
White connector for oil pressure sending unit.
White connector for coolant temperature sending unit.
White connector with red wire for low oil level switch.

The two white connectors in the center are for the backup light switch.
The two white connectors at the upper right are for the neutral switch.

The black multi pin connector at the left center are, I think, for the dash harness.
At the moment, I don't recall what the single black wire with round connector (next to multi pin connector) is for. It might be a tach wire coming off the trailing ignitor.

maaaaackle

iTrader: (1)

White connector with the yellow wire and red is the oil pressure

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if you look on Yahoo Japan Auctions there are plenty of new ones. S5 though

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

From a serviceability perspective, it seems silly to have the cables bundled into the Engine Harness like this when the only connection between the two is electrical tape. Kinda like how the Wipers/Cruise/Sub-Zero start Assist wiring are packaged in with the Emission Harness. Anyway, unwrapping the harness tape is not a very fun job but pretty straightforward. Start at the battery and work your way down. Every few inches, re-tape the harness with the cables off to the side. Keep working your way down and you'll be able to pull them out from the top.

Replacement cable lengths:
Positive: 48"
Negative: Two 24" (Battery to Body and Body to Starter)

During reassembly, I suggest using cables with eyelet lug terminals and Marine Battery Terminals (they have wing nuts) so it can easily be taken apart with as little effort as possible. Most parts stores or Walmart have 4awg cables in slightly longer lengths (25" and 51" I believe) on the shelf at any given time. These work fine and give you a little extra wiggle room to route them however you like without fear of coming up short. One thing I'd suggest to make life easier is for the Body Ground point is to thread the M6 bolt (use stainless steel, 20mm long should be fine) in from the wheel side. This gives you a stud to hook the negative cables onto, instead of trying to hold two cables plus a M6 bolt together and thread it in straight in such a cramped area. Added bonus is that you can secure the positive cable onto this stud with an Adel Clamp to keep things fairly tidy

For more detailed info, check out Aaron Cake's guide here:
https://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/grounding.htm

divinefist81

Ill take a look at the yahoo site.