LOL ted... you never quit.

the next things i order for my car are stainless 2" u-bends and a RA omp adaptor

 

This is a nice/good way to fix oil omp lines, but you can do the same using the old fittings and some small engine fuel line that can be bought at the local hardware store. The old ear clamps can be used on the new lines. Just spread them apart and then recrimp the ears with a pair of pliers. Been there and done it on a couple of engines. No leaky.

 

bump! This one should be archived!

 

It's in 1st gen archives. I wrote it when my son and I did his 2nd gen though. Heck, I might one day want to refer back to this for my RX-8. lol

 

I got my parts the NEXT DAY!!! Cheers to MSC!!! F*** that scalliwag guy!

 

Bump, going to do this soon.. already orded my parts.. This should defintly be archived!

 

The parts are also available from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). However, the parts numbers are different, of course, so you will need to do some digging to find the comparables.

 

EDIT: The McMaster-Carr part numbers:
#52355K12, Tubing made with Teflon® FEP, 1/8" ID, 3/16" OD, 1/32" wall thickness, semi-clear, $1.27/ft.
#54105K34, Double-pinch SS Hose & Tube Clamp, 13/64" to 9/32" clamp ID range, Pack of 25, $7.89.

Note: These part numbers were arrived at by me based on the dimensions and description in the original post by Racer X-8. In other words, they were not based on a cross reference table at McMaster-Carr. I believe them to be comparable to those items used by Racer X-8, but you may want to review the tables on the McMaster-Carr web site to verify that for yourself. After I install the items I will provide additional information on their suitability.

 

We need to stop the MYTH of the *steady drip* BULL ****.

 

About your stuff, the 54105K34 clamps seem to be identical in every way. The tubing should be good too, however, I think I would have chosen the PFA equivalent - same page, towards the top, "Extreme-Purity PFA Tubing" number 5773K12. The description is so close though, you will be ok.

Thanks Go48 for your contriibution here. I also use McMaster-Carr a whole lot, they are also huge and an extremely safe place to shop online for your stuff. I hope all goes well for you.

Any other input as you go thru it would be helpfull too...

 

Guess what I found? Cracked and broken lines.

I am going to do the same mod but have questions. I want to do the repair with the pump and injectors installed. What is the easiest way to access the pump to install the lines? What is the best way to get the lines over the barb? I know at least one of you has done it before.

 

Mazda said $130NZD for the new lines and it would have taken 10 days from Japan. Flag that:

I just finished fitting my new omp lines. I used yellow translucent tube from a lawnmower workshop, TYGON for fuel line etc. I guess. (paid $20NZD for 2 metres, that seems like a lot but I couldn't care less).

It seems like good stuff- flexible, perfect I/D, and doesn't kink easily.
It went on the banjo fittings very tight and I used mini zip-ties to secure them.
I cleaned and reused the fabric sleeves to protect them from heat and rubbing.

I think it will stand up to the heat and hope it wont corrode, time will tell but I bet it will be just fine.
I removed the injectors and fuel rail to make the job easier, and cleaned them and the plugs.

I'll post up a pic when I can.

Thanks NZConvertible for the tips.


Next up: 2-Stroke OMP resevoir mod.

CHEERS,
CHUCK.

ps. Heres another thread on this subject, HAILERS has good stuff to say.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-much-pressure-mop-lines-394960/

 

why is this not in the archives?

 

I'd advise you to remove the airpump and the afm/airfilter to access the omp. Then use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding the omp. Remove the four banjo bolt holding the lines first with a 10mm box end wrench.

I'd recommend removing the dynamic chamber to access the oil injectors. Remove the oil injectors, don't do the job with the injectors in the engine. It takes a 14mm THIN open end wrench.

Cut the old lines with a pair of dykes at the barb on each end.

Lay the six ends all in a line. Pick up you butane tourch and burn the leftover hose and clamp off the barbs. The old plastic will burn right off and the old clamp will come right off.

No plastic will be left in the barbs if you burnt it all off. Shove a piece of wire in the barb opening to make sure there is nothing inside, then blow thru it to be sure.

How do you mate the new line on the barb??????????????? Try this. Offer the new tube up to the barb end and shove one towards the other. I must have misunderstood that question altogether.

Personally I would not use the zip ties. The heat will make them brittle in a short time frame. So, you can use a piece of .020-.030 safety wire and twist it around the hose on the barb.......or use the old ear clamps if they fit your new line........or get some five minute epoxy and smear it on the barb then shove the line on the barb. No epoxy should get in the line because your shoving the expoxy away from the barb opening as you install the line.

I guess you could install the new lines on the injectors with the injectors in the engine, but my god that would take forever and a day, what with cleanly removing the old clamp and line in a tight place.

I bought 10ft of what I call small engine fuel line at 1.29 a foot. Eight feet would have done the job easily with spare line left over. Epoxy cost ?? got me. Five bucks. A piece of electrical wire would do with the insulation removed. Use it as you would saftey wire, turn and twist.

I've done three cars using variations of what I just wrote and they don't leak at the omp or the injectors.

Omp pumps did leak on all three cars. It wasn't the o'ring where they mate to the engine. It was the lever on the pumps which has a o'ring that is not listed in the parts fische. For the lever, I used o'rings out of an o'ring assortment package from the auto store.

You can protect the lines from chaffing using electrical convolex tubing around the new omp tubing. The spiral wrap kind

And make sure the injectors work right. Blow thru them towards the threaded area of the injector, then suck on them. You should be able to blow thru them but not suck thru them. If you can get air to pass in each direction, they ain't a no gooda.

 

Again, Why not in the arechives.

Everybody has an idea about how to attatch the new hose to the Banjos. My .02......Coaxial cable Crimp rings. What are these? If you are making coaxail cables like the one that hooks to your TV, The new ends (some type) have a ring that you slide over the cable and then after you press in the new end you take the ring and "Crimp" it to hold everytthing together.

This ring just so happens to be the best fit for OMP lines. You merely need to slip the ring over the OMP line, then slid the line over the banjo barb then crimp the ring over both and your done.

The ring and a cheap pair of Crimpers are found at Radio Shack for less than $10 bux. So Vacuum line and rings and a weekend will have your Brittle OMP lines replaced for under $20 bux. Hell of alot cheaper than ONE OMP line from Mazda and easier than finding them in the for sale section.

 

Did the mod, removing the lines at the pump (4, 10mm special bolts with hollow center to deliver the oil) without removing the pump. You have to squeeze your arm between the pulley and the fan. I used vaccum line and copper crimps from the electrical section of the hardware store. Coaxial cable crimpers tightly secured the copper crimp around the tubing. All for well under $20.

 

[img=http://img473.imageshack.us/img473/6811/omplines22wx.th.jpg]
[img=http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/3971/omplines16ln.th.jpg]

 

 

This should definitely be archived. I got the kit with the part numbers through MSC, I set up an individual account in less than 3 minutes and got everything about 3 days later. I gotta say, I was worried at first but this was one of the easiest things I've done to the Rx7 so far. Just take your time and you don't even really have to be that careful. I took the time to clean my oil injectors with some degreaser and 220 grit sandpaper and it all looks nice and clean. What makes it nice is if you do one side and stick the bolt in it to hold it in place and then you can get a real good fit on the other end. And 10 feet is plenty, even if you make mistakes which is almost impossible - I don't know if they sent me too much because I didn't measure really, but I think I had about 6 feet left over.

 

Again, Why not in the arechives.

 

I am ordering the materials today for my FD. I will take pictures of the whole process and post in a new thread. I fabricated the block off plate last night.

Thanks to all pioneers!!

Terry7

 

Block off plate? well I am by passing the engine oil for injection and moding the pump for two cycle oil injection. Now I will have nice new injector lines to go with the mod!

Terry7

 

***Archive me!***

 

Terry, good luck on that awsome mod. I look forward to your thread, with plenty of pix and how it works so well.

Terry asked me how well the subject hardware is lasting. That's a real important question that deserves an answer on occasion. It's still like new.

 

Well i just stumbled upon this thread.Im gonna do the omp line mod befor i install my motor.Also what is the two cycle mod?