I believe the '91s are high impedance, so to make them work you will need to jumper accross the resistors used for the 550cc injectors. Not 100% sure though as I don't have any experience with 89+ FCs.

 

No offence, but I was right. You don’t know how EFI works, or turbos for that matter. Your reasoning is completely wrong. Flow rate doesn’t change because pressure does. The flow rate (cfm or L/s) at the air filter is exactly the same as the flow rate entering the engine. I was talking about all cars. This trick has been around since the flapper type AFM was first used. I never said it would break, just that it would use more gas and loose power at some parts of the rev range. You call that a good result?

Do like Aaron said and get an S-AFC so you can tune it properly.

 

Ok... It is not that I don't know EFI, I was just trying to find a workaround I know how old the trick is. I am pretty good at working settings with haltech and micro tech. But believe me it is a BITCH working with this PIECE OF **** NON REPROGRAMABLE CPU!!!!!!!!!! My car made the lean roaring sound the other day around 5500. I am taking the engine out tomorrow to inspect it. Since I get the internal parts cheap I don't care. Plus it will give me peace of mind, I just wanna increase the fuel feed a little more so I am installing the MSD fuel pump. My E6K is comming around October, FD Race Ported Engine, T-62 Turbo with a "Q-Trim Shaft" and other goodies. So I don't mind ******* around with this one. If it breaks I'll fix it in my garage, I got plenty of parts. I think that the fuel pump and the boost sensitive regulator will be enough.

 

You can hear your engine go lean?! That's a new one on me...

 

Sweet Work man. Think you can give some full and complete engine pics when done? Love the CUSTOM BOV MOD.

 

When done, there will be a plethora of pictures and videos...

 

I figured... OK Guys whenever you feel your engine vibrating and making a hellacious noise right before you shift at the highest RPM you can hit, it means that your car went lean and have the possibility of breaking or bending an apex seal. If you are lucky you did not... It is true, period...

 

I do know what you're talking about... but I don't think that sound means you are detonating.
Pinging is pinging...
The engine does sound differently when running very rich as opposed to leaner.... leaner is louder, but doesn't yet mean it's detonating. That's a distinct light rattle.

Go ahead and do the AFM mod if you want, but my guess is it just won't cut it. Fuel needs more correction the higher the throttle, and the more boost you get, it's not a linear increase like the single, fixed amount you will get with the displaced AFM setting.

Oh, and the high impedence injectors will work, like Aaron said, just bypass the secondary wires on the resistor.

 

I know the noise that I am talking about. Believe me I know the noise and the rattle that I'm describing, the exhaust temp goes up whenever it happens and that my friends mean LEAN!!!!!!!! I am not doing the mod, I'm installing a fuel pump and a boost sensitive pressure regulator. Did I mention that my car ran 13:87 last Sunday? How fast are you guys?

 

ok you guys are misinterpreting what some of the words that he is trying to say keep in mind spanish is his first language and some people still think in their first language to then translate it

 

Actually I went to high school and one year of college in Houston TX. So I mean every word that I say... If you guys read carefully at my posts I am very clear in what I state. That is why I am stressing the point that some replies don't even answer nor argue my comments. Which are personal in matter and are not meant to put anybody's knowledge to the test but to show that experience sometimes works better. Look it is a typical scenario to spend money in "Miracle working devices" I have spent so little money in my car and at the same time it performs so well due to good a mechanical work and "witt" that people who have wasted money in their car just to hit times that can be reached with minor adjustments that we have learned to do over the years get pissed, that is not my fault. If those products were so good don't you thing that the company who makes them would have the best records at the drag strip???? Don't buy something just because it's pretty. Anyway the AFM mod was just a thought... I repeat 13:87 on a Turbo converted N/A @ 8PSI... It's not what job was done inside the engine but who did it... We do not use Mazdatrix's nor Racing Beat's templates either, we got our own formula for that. So again it is not about going to the store and buy fancy **** it is about spending money in stuff that works...
Remember that this is my personal opinion and I do not mean to put anybody down because every opinion here counts. It is threads like this that show how much we are willing to help each other, all of you guys are great and have great cars keep it up and keep the flames shooting out the exhaust!!!!!

 

I don't have a fuel controller on my car either if it matters to anyone. Just a Walboro, an 89 primary rail with the stock 88 550's, and some 720 secondaries running off an 87 resistor pack. Runs great

I'm going to continue with my ''band-aid'' tuning by adding a Malpassi RRFPR and upping my boost 2-3 more PSI. My friend has a MoTeC wideband that we're going to use on it to see how close I've got it.

 

Malpassi are good... When we used the 12A/holley/turbo setup back in the days the car was running 10.46 on street tires. The regulator was a Malpassi. They are good....

 

Ya wanto get into times?
I'm running 1/4 sec or less slower... N/A!
Anyways... I was just questioning the mod because you said you were leaning out. It's just that the ECU still has a max pulsewidth, and no matter how rich you set sensor like the AFM, it'll still lean out once it hits that max.
You said you were leaning out at high rpms... you need 4 550's and a S-AFC! It looks cool too!

 

Well I took the engine out, checked it and a seal was gone by the corner piece. I installed the seal, MSD pump and guess what? No more problems, and about times... Did I mention my car has an automatic transmission and telephone dial 14" wheels? Yes I did it all in one day... It's an advantage when your cousin owns a Drag Car and a Muffler shop. We did it all in one day.

I am not getting it up to 8000 RPM, the leaning sound and symptoms USED to happen around 5500 rpms and after the pump installation the problem is gone. I don't need the 550's because I got 720 for secondaries. 4x550= 2,200. With my 460 and 720 I'm making 2,360. So it will be fine. I'll tell you about times next week when I take it to the strip. Thasnks to all of you guys for the support!!!

 

good work man!! The pictures are great I wanna see some Video of you running out at the track.

 

Dyno man dyno!!... good work man, very well done!

 

OK, so I lied. This is the actual last set of pictures of my NA turbo install. The car is done, and I will be starting it tomorrow (Sunday) weather permitting.



Extra nipple on intercooler plugged.



TID, AFM and air filter installed. It is a very tight fit, and I had to move the wheel well slightly with a hammer. I would have preferred to mount the AFM in the stock positon, but there was no way that was going to happen, so I had to settle for an angle...I will use the S-AFC to tune out any changes in airflow reading this may cause.



Attempted closeup of turbo inlet duct. Note the blue gasket goo that seals the nipple instlled for the BAC air hose.



The crappiest downpipe in the world. This 2.5" downpipe connects to teh Bonez SuperFlow cat in the stock location. It is only a temporary part to get me on the road...I will have a real exhaust shop make me up a good one as soon as I don't need the car for a few days. It is simply made out of 2.5" steel plumbing pipe, connected together with 2.5" exhaust pipe. The welds are so terrible because it was VERY difficult to weld the thin exhaust pipe to the thick plumbing pipe. I kept blowing holes in the exhaust pipe, so eventually I gave up with the neat welds and just piled the metal on there.

 

Custom stubby wrench made to help bolt the downpipe to the turbo.



Downpipe installed on turbo with O2 sensor.



Exhaust connected to downpipe.



Several pictures of the completed engine bay.

 

As I mentioned, the car will be started tomorrow assuming no rain. It has been raining on and off here for the last few days, which keeps screwing with my plans...All that has to be done now is to fill the engine with oil and coolant, and put a battery in there...

There has also been an unexpected problem: the drivers side power lock actuator seems to have siezed from disuse...I will have to replace that.

 

That looks pretty tidy now that its all together.

I'm jealous, you can change your secondary injectors without pulling the upper intake off

 

Looking good Aaron!
Just curious tho, how come people put their ignition on top of the fan shroud?

 

Its convenient. I don't have a shroud, so mine is up front with the relays.

 

Looks nice and clean despite what other people may say.
Now come on and start it already!! Arent you like totally exited?? I know I was the first time.
Good luck man.
BTW where' the starter relay on a 91 FC??
Thanx see ya

 

I had to mount my MSD box where the horn is mounted. At least you can see it on the fan shroud

James