what did you do for the turbo oil drain?
how about connecting it directly to the oil cooler "in" and and have the cooler outlet connected to the turbo

Vtekeater
the afm is the thing you painted blue right?
after the bov?

 

hey Angel
may sound stupid but maybe you put your gas line backwards ->return line in place of the incoming fuel

 

Just curious... where are you putting the AFM?? Are you going to have to relocate the plug? Looks that way....

I though you were getting the IC modified to get rid of the side mounted outlet? Guess not...
BTW- how did you strip the paint off it? I'd like to do mine just for that extra little bit of temp transfer....

 

Hey ANGEL I thought the T2 manifolds would not fit since the N/A is a six port motor???

Yes the blue thing is my AFM, yours might be different if you have a S4 86-88, mine is an S5 89-91.

 

VtekEater: Interesting...The only thing that worries me about that setup on a S4 car is the air temp sensor in teh AFM...The hot air from the turbo may effect things....I still think I can stick it on the turbo inlet though...I'll have to have a few beers on the weekend and then look at it.

Gab88na: The oil drain goes to a pipe welded into the oil pan. See the first topic for pictures. You cannot connect it to the oil cooler because that is a source of pressureized oil. The drain must see no pressure, and be a gravity drain.

Bambam7: See previous comments on the AFM...I decided not to get the intercooler modified when I saw how nicely things fit the way it was...Almost like it was meant to be there...If you look at the pictures, I even used the stock mounting points on the car and cooler...The paint was stripped when I bought it, though I'm sure a long soak in laquer thinner will strip yours... I also gave it a very good cleaning with dish soap in the shower...

 

I don't want to know about you showering with the intercooler....
Anyways... I have NO room up front without doing some serious cutting..... I have about 10 relays there, the overflow bottle, the AC equipment (that long bent pipe- forget what it's called) the horn, AND my MSD is mounted there- there's no way the 2 IC cores would fit easiyl without ditching the AC. Not gonna happen!
Moving the rad back took me all of an hour, the longest time after that was spent bending up the shet metal shrouds- but those look very sweet- flat black sheet metal surrounding the rad....
Anyways... I am going for a totally stealth, stock look- all you are going to see under the hood is the IC pipes... and you won't see anything from the front.
The car is already a decent sleeper, but I really want to make people say "What the .... was that???)

I also have an electric fan (the permacool one- it'll pull the car uphill), and it's mounted right behind the rad- so it's about 6 inches behind the IC... I'm going to wire an extra switch to mount inside the car- so I can switch the fan on manually (not just thermostat), when the car is staged (or at a stoplight beside a 'vette ) to get LOTS of cool air flowing through it before I launch... may definatly help my 1st gear performance...(and safety)
I'll try to get some pics soon.

 

I think that you have way too much piping for an inefficient FMIC. You should move your rad back a bit (easy) and use a VOLVO FMIC. Here is a pic of mine.



another:


There aren't any hard bends and the piping is kept short.

This IC cost me $175 canadian.. but I'm sure you can find them cheaper.

my $.02

 

You haven't washed your car in over 4 months and its dirty as ****! Your license plate holder between the tailights is missing.


IM gonna come by soon to see it.

Action

 

Angel guard I've PM'd you about how you ported the t2 manifold to match the 6 ports. Do you have pics of the port job?

 

Bambam7: Sounds good to me...I don't have the electric fan, and don't really want to add one at this time (my alternator is already stressed enough), but it sounds like it will work out for you.

Brian P: See above about having to move the rad. Also, I didn't want to have to relocate my battery for piping. And if you remember, the NA throttle body is on the OTHER side, so there would be substantially more piping involved than on a TII.

ACTION RT: Better hurry, it's almost done. And be sure to let me know a few days in advance.

 

Not too long ago, a friend of mine posted his turbocharged 88 NA. He got little to no attention. I somewhat perplexed at how these three threads got stickied.

Aaron, I have some suggesions regarding your little endeavor.
1. The "strawberry" you made will cause a great load of turbulence, like someone mentioned. The stock black elbow is fiberglass and is contoured inside to match the throttle body.
2. The hole on the passenger side frame rail is quite unncessary. There is a way to mount the turbo and the stock wastegate so no cutting of the frame is involved.


Here are some pics of my friend's setup on his FC. Its quite clean IMHO.

 

one more critique ... clean your engine bay!! .. all this work and you've yet to show any effort in lifting a finger to wipe the sludge in your engine bay. not trying to bash you.

 

So I have been told...I will wait until the car is running again (under boost) before I decide to modify/discard the strawberry. I still have the template, so I may make another one in more of a cone shape if I have time.

Three people have told me this, yet no one actually explains how when I ask. Care to enlighten me? I spent about 45 minutes trying to figure this out, and in all my scenarios, I could not get the wastegate mounted effectivly or in a way that satisfied me.

 

Mmmm.... LOVE that white 7 install!!
I just dont like the IC that looks crooked.... same thing with guy who mounted the volvo IC.... the rad looks like it's bungee'd in there!
An update on mine.... I now have the two IC cores welded together- but the guy misssed a small spot, and when I pressurized it with water, I had a little shower... no biggie... I'm still waiting on the spacer anyways... should be done this week...
And ya- I'd LOVE to know how the turbo can mount in there without the WG actuator hitting the fram rail... the thing for me is, I already have the TII DP.... and I am not going to be rotating the turbo or anythig like that, otherwise the flanges will not mate up..

 

we did it same way in matezz's car :

http://rx7cz.net/photos/haltech2/page_02.htm

 

Aaron Cake : where's your air filter?

 

Air filter not installed yet.

 

The TII intake manifold was ported to fit. I used a TII Timming cover and drilled a hole in the oil filter base to feed the turbo. The fuel lines are fine, the plugs for the primaries were old and cracked. I replaced them today and a few hours later the owner of a Mustang 5.0 was very very pissed when I SMOKED the living **** out of him... I'll have pics ready for tomorrow. When you look under the hood it looks like a fatory TII engine. I used the n/a flow meter hose, I just cut it and made a spacer to make it fit on the turbo. It is located exactly as it was from factory.

 

It was not too big of a job. Actually a friend of mine did the conversion without porting, just use a 6 port gasket. His works fine at 10 psi...

 

hope your recording all mesurments cause you could make some big cheese in the future if you thought of making the ic systems for us. just a thought.

 

thats it?
hope you'll have pics soon. I really want to see that.

 

WOW!!!!! I'm gonna be doing this a lot sooner than I expected. I'm waiting for the pics.

 

Hope to have them by tomorrow. By the way I do not have pics of the inside of the manifold since by the time this thread started I was allready done with my car, but you will see what I mean by it looks just like a TII.

By the way; don't you think that the turbo lag will be a big issue having all that tubing to fill using a factory turbo? Plus if you plan on going over 12 psi you should get a bigger intercooler because the air will be a lot hotter that the factory intercooler can handle at that rate of boost. It can be done but It would not be too safe...

 

I would love to know how in the world you will make the TII injectors work on the n/a computer harness. They are not the same impedance as n/a...

 

If i remember right, the 87-87.5's were low impedance and everything after that was high. I thought that, that was universal to all the FC's but I might be wrong. IF I'm not I can just follow Kevin Lander's directions
[ http://hypntyz.rx7life.com/t2conversion2.htm ] there under number 2 to alter the impadences.