OK... I got like 6 purple injectors at home I am thinking of using one for an aditional injector mod using a pressure switch (Don't wanna ever go lean)

 

Yeah that should work using Kevin's setup. Hey could you PM me a writeup on what all you did for your NA turbo setup. I'm sorta teaming up with one of my friends that has beeen into rx7's longer than I have. I've been looking over the workshop manual but I'm still not sure if I have everything.

 

TII injectors work on the NA harness if they are from the same series and before 87.5...They are the same impedance...You can also swap in GSL-SE injectors for more flow...

 

my friend turbocharged his 944S. one thing he did to keep the temperature down (intake air temp) was putting a water injection system and he mixed methanol whit his water.
pretty nice mod to do when your tubocharging high comp. engine.

 

I was thinking about that earlier today, Water injection and the such, exactly how does that work? do you just hit the water injection, or have it programed when you are running really high boost? I just dont really understand the concept, i know that it cuts detonation but how come you just dont run out of water, esp when you need it most. thanks

 

my friend's system consist of a high pressure pump and a pressure switch and a nitrous fogger(not quite sure if its a nos fogger). under preset boost it activate the switch and the pump send of fog of water in the intake.

 

Here is a nice kit I bought, works really well actually
(I use it on my 240sx)
http://www.geocities.com/rad87gn/tech/SteveCkit.html

 

Damn all this Turbo N/A **** makin' me wanna do it.........hhmm...--slaps self--

 

Not sure if turbo lag will be an issue, or at least a noticable one since I have the high compression rotors. We will see if it is a problem when the project is completed.

As far as the intercooler, I do plan to upgrade to a larger unit when I raise the boost....But ultimately, I'm thinking of a TO4, Haltech and Greddy IC. But that's a little far in the future...

 

Turbo lag WILL be an issue- I can almost guarantee it will be noticable.
Maybe not horrible, but it'll be there- more than normal.

You are using tubing 3-4 times longer (at least) than factory, I am assuming your twin scroll has been removed, and the spacer positions the turbo 2.5 inches farther from the ehxuast ports than normal.
High RPMS may be OK, but I bet low RPMS will suffer noticable lag.
Power down low will still be good though- even before the turbo spools up, due to the higher N/A compression rotors, so it may even out.
ALso- do you have the diffuser sleeves in the exhuast??
I really hope those have been removed, ground, or replaced with TII ones. Those will really kill port velocity.

One good(?) thing is that with timing retarded as much as you need it to be, a higher percentage of the combustion will be happening in the exhaust ports than normal... this will drive the turbo to spool quicker.
Damn... it's going to be thirsty though.

 

The exhaust sleeves are still there since I have not had the engine apart.

What I meant about it not being an issue is that because of the NA rotors, it will not be noticable. Sure, there will be lag, but will it matter all that much? Probably not. Speaking to several people that have run a similar setup (turbo 6 port engines, high compression) has yeilded a little information:

1. Boost comes on HARD and FAST. Much more so than the stock TII
2. Lag is much less noticable simply because of the NA's non-boost-dependant design.
3. The 6 port housings don't flow worth anything.

I have removed the twin scroll system because I didn't want to have to bother to figure out how to control it (RPM switch), and it doesn't do a damn thing anyway.

BTW....Got the Apex BOV installed yesterday...Looks very sweet sitting in the engine bay...

 

You may want to consider doing something about the sleeves...
I don't know what you can do with the engine intact- I'm not sure if you can take them out or not- bu you *could* grind them out with a flexshaft on a dremel....
I don't know what you would do to prevent the grindage from getting into the engine though....

I need some TII ones....
Anyone have a set of sleeves??

 

the sixport sleeves?
got 2

 

Bambam7: The sleeves are made of some kind of super-metal (probably hardened steel) and are thus VERY difficult to grind out...And as you mentioned, there is no way to prevent the crap from getting back into the engine...When I pop this engine and do the rebuild, I will be removing them.

Gab88na: He was talking about exhaust sleeves. TIIs don't have the 6 port valves, because they are 4 port engines.

 

dood!, get it on a dyno man!, im sure we wanna see what a turboed N/A block on a dyno before you pop it and modify the accual block.

 

ok here's my $.02 its hindsight for aaron but maybe worth a thought.
it would have been just as easy to put a full to4 on an hks manifold this gives you 2 advantages
1. the manifold puts the turbo further forward, and further out so it would have probably fit without the spacer, and you wouldn't have had to cut the frame
2. its a full t04 so when you want to raise the boost all you have to do is change a spring in the wastegate.
you also dont really have to worry about boost creep, like you do with a stock 87-88 turbo.

if you are keeping the boost under 10-11 the stock ic is fine, on a t2 and front mounted it should be even better, the next step would have been to find an old greddy or hks ic, the pipes come out of those the way you need them too. you also may want to consider that the n/a's should (nobody has bothered to check) have a more aggressive timing curve, some form of timing control/boost retard device may be worth thinking about, or if its a s5 a t2 ecu swaps right in.

mike
running 20b fc

 

Why is it that I can not see these pictures.

Ian Skacel
88 10th AE

So when will I be able to race against your car
You should come down to shannonville.

 

Try it now.

I won't race at Shannonville. I have bad luck with names involving the word "shannon". But, if you want to come to Mosport....

 

The final set of pictures before I start the car. The only thing left to do is the downpipe, which will be done this week. There are a few little things like reinstalling the plastic air defectors around the rad, cleanup, and stuff like that, but all the real work is done. I plan to start the car next weekend, which will give me time to wash it and think about anything that I have missed.



The NA fuel pump removed. This was quite a chore due to the rusted bolts. I used a combination of WD-40, a chisel, hammer, Sears Damaged Screw Removers and luck to get them out.



The NA fuel pump assembly.



A comparison of the FD (green) and NA (gold) fuel pumps.



FD fuel pump installed on NA bracket. Fits like it was designed for the car. Oh wait, it was.

 

FD fuel pump assembly reinstalled. Note copious used of blue gasket goo to prevent leaks. Also, stainless steel screws were used to prevent the rust problems which made the originals so hard to remove.



Hacked TII oil and water lines.





Various views of the oil and water lines on the turbo.

 

Strawberry painted and installed permanently.



Turbo bolted in for the last time. The last bolt (upper front) was a nightmare, requiring the manufacture of a custom stubby wrench to tighten. Not something I want to do often.



Lower intercooler pipe insalled and secure via hose clamps.



Closeup of lower intercooler pipe connected to intercooler.



Apex'I blowoff valve and custom mounting flange.

 

Welding the mounting flange onto upper intercooler pipe.



Turbo oil and water lines installed, as well as thick rerouted heater hose. The heater hose needed to be moved because the wastegate for the turbo assembly does not allow the stock metal pipe to fit.




Closeups of turbo oil and water lines.



Oil fitting on oil cooler. Note the 90 degree eblow needed for the oil nipple. After trying to fit the oil hose, it was discovered that there was not enough clearance between the cooler and the rad. The 90 degree fitting moved the nipple into a compatible position.

 

Oil line connected.




Oil drain fittings. If I had realised there would be so much clearance, I would have just welded a section of pipe onto the pan and avoided the multiple 90 degree fittings. Live and learn I guess...



Apex'I BOV installed on upper intercooler pipe.



Closeup of BOV. Such a sweet looking piece. For scaring the ricers (if they even know what it is).

 

New air hose connected to split air pipe. Yes, I will be running a cat.



Wiring in the S-AFC harness.



S-AFC installed.



Closeup of S-AFC.



Air output from old ACV blocked off. Used a small section of pipe plugged at one end by a 3/8 copper pipe cap.

 

Turbo inlet duct. Made by Home Depot Racing, this duct just BARELY fits. Was an extreme hassle to get it to work. I plan to eventually move to the smaller S5 AFM to eliminate most of the clearance issues caused by this duct.



Nipple for 6 ports plugged on split air pipe.


I believe this will be the last set of pictures. As mentioned, only the downpipe remains to be done. I will get to it sometime this week to hopefully start the car by the weekend.