is there gonna be a gasket on the strawbarry??? And why is the tubing bigger on it???

 

There is a gasket between the throttle body and the strawberry. I will also be using some RTV sealant...Not sure what you mean about the pipe...It's all 2" stainless.

 

The hose attaching the intercooler pipe to the strawberry (nice term btw!) is too large and will not seal, probably because you are trying to attaching to one of the bends.

 

Nope, not the problem. Everything will be secured with hose clamps in the end...

It's very obvious when you look at the the two closeups of the pipe passing through the rad support...

 

Hey Aaron, Its great to see all your progress.

 

Aaron, congrats on all the work so far. If you wanna come to my house over this summer for a month and turbo my n/a, i wouldnt have a problem with that
Looks good, keep us updated on the progress.

 

LOL, thanks guys...Not sure if I want to do this for money yet...It takes time.

Ironically, there was a NA turbo kit produced by a forum member for a while, for a very reasonable price ($1500 US). He stopped making it due to lack of interest.

 

If you don't mount the piping to some thing hard and the rubber tube is going to set on the hole you made in the car. The tube should rub a hole in the pipe. Is that it?

 

Aaron,

Just a thought... I was looking pretty hard at your pics of the "strawberry" and how the pipe attaches. There is going to be a LOT of turbulence at that point, creating problems with flow.

Have you considered using the stock plastic section there, and a plumbing reducer there? (in this case an "enlarger" to connect the small intercooler pipe to the larger plastic section.) That would be simpler, probably cheaper, and produce a smoother transition. I suspect you would have less problems and make more power that way. It points the proper direction already- about 45 degrees foreward.

Chris (from Rotary Performance) even suggested using this part to replace the stock TII part on cars with a FMIC to reduce the number of bends and smooth the airflow.

Brad

 

P.S. even though I am putting a "real" turbo motor in my 'vert, I'm planning to use an NA section to connect the intercooler to the TB. I'm also going to use a "mid mount" (I can't figure a better way to describe this... it will be between the radiator and the AC condeser) intercooler. Piping will be very easy, no cutting, and the piping won't be MUCH longer than stock... about an extra 12"-18" so it will keep lag down. An Isuzu (one of the BIG ones that are roughly square, not the little ones) NPR intercooler looks to be the way to go... but I am also considering a Volvo unit.
Aftermarket is a possibility too of course.

Brad

 

what about the MAF ? is that the problem Aaron ?

 

what extactly does the ACV block off plate do?

 

No hose clamps on the new rubber hoses?

Seems like you would want these, considering the high pressures you will have with a turbo

 

rx7_ragtop: I considered using the stock plastic piece, but was not convinced that it could hold boost pressure. I thought about the problems the FD has with cracking plastic on the Y pipe and intercooler, and didn't want to deal with that. I guess if RP is doing it, I have nothing to worry about...Still, it makes me rather uneasy...I'm not sure what you mean about turbulance. The strawberry is pretty smooth, and I have ground the welds inside the pipe very smooth...From the inside, you can't tell that it was welded, it just looks like a pipe. Also, the upper intercooler hose mates up nearly perfectly inside the rubber connector, so I'd imagine the flow will be pretty smooth....Unless I'm missing something?

Green: Getting closer. Don't overthink the problem. It's pretty low tech.

 

Have fun putting a holse clamp on the top IC pipe, the rubber looks dead even with the radiator support

 

Well, obviously blocks off the ACV.

Actually, it blocks off all the holes that are exposed when you remove the Air Control Valve. Most people remove the ACV when they remove their air pump. I would have rather just left it on, but there is no way for the turbo to fit with it in place.

 

Actually, it all fits after a little adjusting...Or I could just put the hose clamp on first.

 

Ahh.. Ok, I see.. thanks (newbie questions floating around)

Otherwise.. nice job. Love the setup

 

That's the first thing I thought when I saw that- Have fun with the hose clamp!

BTW- Today I just mounted the rad back about 4 1/2 inches... Just used some long bolts and some cut sections of pipe as spacers....
I had to cut(shorten) the upper and lower rad hoses too, but it all worked like a charm.... the 2 IC cores will firt perfectly in there.
The battery didn't need to be relocated... howeven I did have to grind tray a bit- just to get a bit more clearance...

I also made some very nice sheet metal shrouds around the top, and sides of the rad so no air leaks around it- they look great painted flat black... very nascar'ish!
Sorry- no pics....

Anyways- the first thing I thought of with those pipes, is that they are mounted right to the engine, which will be shaking and such.... you might want to make up a bracket to go around the pipes and secure that to the chassis before they go through the rad support.... you may get some rattling if you don't...
You should also put foam around then to kill some of the air leaking through those- and past the rad!

 

Good pics Aaron, I'm not sure what it goes to, but I see a cable running between the 2 pipes, is that it?

 

How do you hook up the MAF to this setup ?
do you have the air from the turbo go directly through the MAF then into the IC then into the TB ?
(I don't know too much about Forced induction yet.. Just basics..) But I see no where for the MAF to hook up to your setup...

 

Aaron,

You have a pipe (2.5"?) going into a chamber roughly 3x the size and an odd shape. There is nothing to "direct" the airflow to this change in shape and size. Where the pipe ends, it (the airflow) will tend to try to adhere to the surface and turn the corner... but won't be able to make a 90 degree transition there, causing turbulence, which will disrupt the flow behind it. You need a gradual transition to the size/shape of the TB to reduce this effect. Hence my suggestion for the elbow or similar. I suppose you could always make up a reversed funnel shaped to the "strawberry" and match it to the shape of the inside of the TB, but that would be a LOT of work.

Brad

 

Bambam7: Sounds good about the rad. I wanted to avoid moving mine since I still have the stock fan...It's probably too late now, but did you look at the area in front of that round crossbrace? There's a tonne of space up there, and it will show a mean looking intercooler through the bumper cutout. Scare the ricers.

Green: The AFM will connect to the turbo inlet through a pipe.

Xentrix: Nope, that's not it...

Since no one is guessing correctly, I will just say it. There is no physical space for the AFM and filter. I will have to stare at it for a few minutes to figure out how to mount things...may need to put the AFM on the turbo inlet, and then run a pipe to the filter.

rx7_ragtop: That's a good point...I'm not sure if it is going to make much of a difference though...Even the stock bend is 3", which would result in a significant "dropoff" when connected to 2.5" or 2" pipe...I'll have to see when I have the car running.

 

Hey Aaron I was close, but heres an idea on how to do it another way.
My old setup before the T2 motor, I had the AFM after the turbo.
I have found out that the turbo spools up faster and also you can have the BOV vent to atmosphere and it wont mess with the AFM readings because it lets of the air before the AFM.
BTW I have done this to 3 other S4 two 88's and an 87 and also my 240sx and it works great, the cars run smoother just because the AFM doesnt loose any unmetered air.

 

I did it diffrent, I installed tII intake manifold and fuel rails, exhaust manifold, timming cover, turbo, n/a primaries, 12a turbo 720 cc secondaries and intercooler. 2 1/2 single ehaust. If you look at it it looks like a factory TII. I'll post some pics soon... I took the engine out because I had to replace the rear shaft seal (The big round orange one). And I fucked up on the wiring, the starter does not turn from the key. It turns when I short it. And I am getting no gas fro the injectors, the pump is fine and I got spark, I know I am missing something but I can't find it. It was working fine before I took it out. I need a wiring diagram (Engine harness only 87 n/a)