The car runs so much better after letting the apex seals soak in ATF overnite! I really cannot believe the difference; its not like when you bolt on something thats supposed to add horsepower; and then you wonder if its faster or just louder; the car now pulls alot harder and the throttle response seems better too! Try it! Also a quick question if anyone reads this, would adjusting the TPS cause my high idle warmup to start fluctuating up and down? I'll be posting more on that later. . .

 

Is that up and down just happening at warmup? If so, then I would suspect the thermowax. I just removed mine to remidy that problem

 

hmmmm. . .thats what I suspect too. Can you point me to a write-up on checking/removing it? Sounds hard but if it keeps up I'm gonna do it. I'll check out the factory manual for now; but I have an '90 and I think the dl manual is for an '88.

 

When you say that you soaked the apex seals in ATF, do you mean you pulled the engine apart and let them sit there overnite then re-assembled the engine? Seems like a lot of work for just that, although it would be fun

Hey fc3s.org, I have tried on multiple occasions to download that damn FSM from the link on your site without success. Is the problem on my end or on that other site?

 

Hey, Ive always been curious about this, How exactly do you perform the ATF trick? I have a general idea, but im not positive, and i better be if im gonna try it

is there a How-to on this? I cant imagine that it would be that complicated.

 

i was told that you pour about a tablespoon into each housing by removing the plugs. put the plugs back in and leave off the wires and remove the egi fuse like the unflood procedure. put it in at night and go crank it 2 or 3 times before you go to sleep so it will get spread around, then go to bed wake up in da mornin and go put the egi fuse back in and the plug wires back on and start it up and rev to 7k for 1 or 2 sec's, depending on redline that is but it makes A LOOOOOOOOOOOT of smoke, make sure you dont live in town or you will get a fire truck or two at your house, it smokes that badly lol

 

...Someone posted this yesterday, it's a good write-up: ATF Treatment

-Brian

 

hmmmm i might try that on my car now, maybe it will fix it then i can not rebuild and do a streetport and haltech anyways WOOHOO

 

I have a question, is ATF=automatic tran. fluid??
can I do this trick in a piston engine ?

 

Yes it's automatic transmission fluid, and yes you can use it in a piston engine. But of course for different reasons... a piston engine doesn't have apex seals that can crack from carbon buildup =)... but I garuntee you could clean an engine out in the same way, for a dirty unkept engine. I doubt you'll see any increase in compression, tho unless you are loosing compression through valves that have trouble opening and closing. Put it this way: It won't hurt to try...

-Brian

 

I am wondering if its a good idea to do on a 88 T2, I now have 113k and am thinking maybe it could add life? Has anyone ever done it (ATF) to a T2? Thanks!

 

thinking the exact same thing. Will this help my TII (although its relatively new with only 90K km on it) ?

 

Here is the official ATF link by BobRx. This link needs to be on the front page or something cause I posted it like 5 times now!


http://www.mazspeed.com/atf.htm

 

...and we are very grateful. I know the link, I have read and printed the whole how-to, but I couldnt find some kind of an answer. Is this something to do to old and/or abused engines, or something that will help/prolong engine life, no matter how many kms ? Just wondering...

 

More like Viagra for the rotary. The first time I tried it on my 91 w/140k I immediately noticed a difference. Of course if the engine is blown in the first place or you have cracked apex seals or warped housings it may not do anything.

 

The ATF just desolves all the carbon. Carbon on the seals, carbon on the housing, just carbon in general. On a high milage engine you will see an increase in compression. It works just as well on a T2 as it does on an N/A. I have heard stories of guys taking engines with no compression from the wrecker and doing the treatment and getting the engine running again. You have nothing to loose with this treatment (too my knowledge) so if you have a higher milage car give it a try when you have a spare couple days, just be prepared for a ton of smoke!

 

Putting very much atf in a piston motor will cause carbon lock. If the atf totally seals the ring gap, it will refuse to compress anymore, until you drain the atf.

 

Yeah, it'll smoke alright...I tried to pull out my driveway to take it for a spin, looked down the road and a cop was coming down the street. So I pulled back in and watch him in my mirror; he drives by real slow and is staring at my car, I thought I was going to get some kind of ticket for being a nuisence, but he kept on going.
Someone said the fire department showed up when they did it.

-let it soak 24 hours in order to work. I let mine sit about 23 but had to somewhere to go.
-if you use a tube to drain the atf into the spark plugs, make sure you completely take it out before bumping the starter. You don't want a piece of it to get lodged inbetween a rotor and housing.

This treatment seriously works for any engine with a couple of miles on it. I don't understand why more people don't know about it. Its the cheapest/best way to restore power and increase engine life.

 

more tips: Generally the longer you let it sit the better. mine's been in there for over a week and counting (have to install new oil lines first cause mine cracked) and I always start the car late at night when everyone's asleep so my smokescreen goes pretty much unnoticed. Keep a set of old plugs to use every time you ATF your wankel. Once you successfully burn off any remaing ATF fluid via several redline runs around the block you can then install new plugs.

 

Here's my idea, no guarantee that it makes a difference or anything, but when i do the atf deal to my car... I do as prescribed above, but instead of bumping the strter, I put the car in 5th and roll it backwards. My theory is that since the engine is rotating the opposite way, the atf sitting at the bottom of the housing is being washed against the spark plug side of the engine as each apex seal goes through. If you hit the starter, much of it will be blown out the exaust. I let it sit at least 24 hours, rolling it backwards in gear, then putting it in neutral and rolling it back to where it was ~ probably do this once every 2-3 hours.

Some tips:
1 As superslinc says, take the damn hose out before you spin the engine!
2 If the hose wont go into the hole(you can tell when its hitting the rotor instead of going deep into the housing like it should), try bumping the starter and trying again - the rotor should have moved, and with luck isnt in the same place again
3 A small squeeze pump attached to a 6 foot hose is great for getting the atf from the bottle to the rotor housing.
4 Before you go to start it up, take out the plugs and turn over the engine for a while, until you've blown most of the atf out. This will reduce(somewhat) the smoke when you start it up
5 Make sure that egi fuse is out!
6 Keep in mind that a lot of the atf will end up in your cats... this can lead to clogged cats
7 The longer it sits the better, if you only leave it for a few hours, you may see no improvement.
8 Use an old set of plugs during the treatment and startup... atf fouls plugs big time

Well, i cant think of anything else at the moment... Good luck to the guys that are outside doing this right now



~Jesse

 

I did the not too long ago. I thought I had ruined my ngine until somepone on here reminded me to change the oil in my car since the ATF also gets into the oil. 15min later and the car is running perfect and even better than before. Doing this on a car with 100,000 miles on it was good! Brought it back to life.

 

It sounds like something I will try eventually. But right now I have 114k and my 88 T2 runs great, that and I know how much smooke it will produce, the people around me are kinda snobby, they probaly would call the cops. I will have to wait for a better time & place. I would like to know how everyone else who has/is trying it thought it worked though!
Have a great fun motoring weekend guys!

 

If you guys want to try this on a piston motor be VERY careful. Too much fluid can lead to hydro-lock. Never heard of carbon lock but just like HYPNTYZ7 says, too much and it'll lock. Fluids don't compress and if the volume of fluid exceeds that of the compustion chamber the motor won't turn over. They actually make a product for two-strokes that is designed to free stuck rings. Hopwever, in a four-stroke piston motor, stuck rings are much less common.


Chris

 

The ATF treatment will probably mess with your o2 sensor too.
Either take it out beforehand or don't worry about it. But if your check engine light comes on a few days later don't be surprised if its because the o2 sensor isn't sending a signal.

 

how do you disconnect the o2 sensor? anything else that should be disconnected before doing this? i think i might give it a try this weekend