I did the ATF treatment on my '87 TII. Before I started I had a compression reading of 65 on both rotors. After the treatment, It was 90 on both rotors. However, I modified the treatment as follows.
Using a socket on the eccentric shaft bolt, I rotated the engine manually until it was at the yellow timing mark. Lead rotor was now at TDC. Squirted in ATF in lead rotor, let sit for 24 hours. Then, I marked the pulley, and rotated the engine till the mark pointed down (180 degrees). Trailing rotor now at TDC. Squirted in ATF into trailing rotor, let sit for 24 hours.
Repeated entire cycle 2 more times to get all 3 apex seals, front and rear rotor. I did it this way to make sure that each apex seal had it's own bath of ATF. I did not feel comfortable squirting in fluid and then cranking it around, since it seemed to me that the oil soaking would not be guaranteed to be consistent across all apex seals. Maybe I'm just being a little **** retentive??? I don't know. I do know this, the engine runs perfectly now, with compression across all apex seals within 5 psi. We are happy! Engine has over 122K miles on it. As expected, it smoked like crazy for almost 10 minutes after starting it. No smoke after that at all.

Irv, Keith's dad

 

How does the ATF get into the oil if you inject it directly into the plug holes?


Irv: Instead of doing all that, you could just use more ATF. Its virtually impossible to do any damage from "too much" ATF in a rotary.
Another way to make sure each apex seal is getting its share;
using a small mirror (like a dentist would use) and a flashlight, position the mirror down by the leading spark plug hole. Shine the flashlight onto the mirror. If you get the angles right, you should be able to see directly into the combustion chamber. Just pull on one of the drive belts until you see a bright shiny apex seal directly in the path of the spark plug hole.
this is also a good way to check for cracked/chipped seals on a rotary engine. But keep in mind you can't see either end of the apex seal, only the middle part which is visible through the plug recess.

 

"How does the ATF get into the oil if you inject it directly into the plug holes?"

Try using about 12 to 18 inches of hose and a small funnel. I believe vacuum hose would be narrow enough to fit into the plug journals.

Mike

 

Welp!..... I did it and I am pleased with the results!
I haven't taken a compression reading yet, but I did go out and G-Tech it. 250 RWHP!!!
Before I did it, it was 220 RWHP.
I have also noticed it made it more responsive!
Try it! I think you will like it!

 

could someone please explain, in which way the atf could possibly get in the oil system, because i can't think of one.

 

Uhm.. just disconnecting the WIRE will gain you nothing. I assume he must have meant physically removing it. I would recommend AGAINST removing the o2 sensor and running your car, as I imagine hot flames and gasses will shoot up under your engine bay... very bad..

Either way, go to the passenger side of the car under the hood.. On the side of the engine is the exhaust manifold... Toward the back of it is the o2 sensor... you want to get an o2 socket (it has a slit in it for the wire...VERY helpful. Just unscrew it.. It will probably be in there VERY tight, you may want to use an impact wrench.

-Tesla

 

Well, yeah, I never removed mine, I meant was just leave it alone because it might screw it up for a while, but it should come back online after a day or two. Both times I have performed this procedure my o2 sensor got fouled up. I'm probably going to replace it with an A/F thingy eventually.

 

sorry im new to RX7s you guys keep saying take out your EGI fuse what is it where is it and why do you have to remove it before you do this ftf treatment secondly where is the O2 sensor and how do i dissconect that and a third thing will this deff. clog up my cats or does that only happen sometimes. i figured that this would help my 87 T2 has 116k miles on it. it seems to run fine but i just bouthgt it so i dont know if it can improve or not and you all seem to think this reallly works great so i figured that i would give it a try


thanx
pinfield

 

Under the hood there is a fusebox with 5-6 fuses, on the driver strut tower. EGI is the closest to the engine, this controls fuel injection. When doing the treatment you dont want the engine to start, or flood with fuel, so you disable the fuel injection temporarily by removing its fuse. BTW, the one next to it, is spark, if you ever need to know. THe treatment shouldnt clogyour cats, unless you absolutely flood your entire exhaust with ATF.

 

Has anyone heard of anyone doing the ATF treatment for 3rd gens?
I would love to know how a 3rd gen responds to this procedure.
I presume the results would be much the same as you guys have reported, though.

-Kib

 

Hey all,

I did the ATF treatment this weekend—with a broken hand. I spent about two hours just trying to get the ATF fluid into the engine! Would have been much easier with two paws. Anyway, I waited 24 hours and reconnected the ignition system and cranked her over. NO GO! I sat back and thought a bout it for a minute, rechecked my wires and since I just put a replacement AFM in I thought that might be the problem. Word of advice—DO ONLY ONE MOD AT A TIME! I finally pulled the original plugs and replaced with the new ones. BAM! The engine turns over and the smoke screen begins. After the smoke cleared—literally—I let the car idle on it's own. HOLY CRAPPERS she was idling at 250–300 rpm! Amazing! I adjusted the AFM (I'm crazy like that), adjust the A/F screw, set my idle, set the timing back to stock and took her out for a few redline runs. SWEET! No hesitation. Lots of power through the RPMs. Nice thrumming idle. I'm happy.

Brian

 

What is AFM?

 

AFM is air flow meter, the metal box thingy under your airbox


~Jesse

 

so what put about a teaspoon or two in each rotor face?
and it should not clog my cats or anything? should have the header and DP anyway.
could it prolly fix my wierd idle that bounces up and downsometimes and other times just goes high then sometimes even normal at 750?. the car was running rich( no TPS for atleast 10k miles) and prolly has some carbon build up inside there.

anything else I could prolly do when I do this?

 

What kind of spark plugs should I reinstall after doing this? (87 TII)

 

You actually want to use your old plugs. The ATF will probably foul them out pretty quick, so after you take it to redline a couple of times, switch in the new set...if you use the new ones right away you have wasted $20 on plugs because they will foul and never fire right after that.
The plugs are NGKs. I can't remember the number but they are something like BURQ7 and BURQ9.

 

you don't have to change your engine oil after doing the atf trick. the atf can't get into the engine oil.

 

Defintly use NGK! ONLY NGK! Our club car(1st gen) had new plugs put in just before the bigining of the autocross season last year, and was in bad shape by the end. I took them out and they were Autolites!!! BAD MISTAKE. I replaced the plugs with NGK's and haven't had a problem since.

Also, NGK is going to a new numbering system for spark plugs, but on the box it still says BUR7EQ(Leading) and BUR9EQ(Trailing).(On the box, it does NOT say leading or trailing, only the numbers are diffrent! The guys at Advance Auto always label my boxes for me since its right on their computer!)

Michael

 

There ought to be a "T" or "L" on the spark plug itself denoting whether its trailing or leading.


~Jesse

 

I have the guys mark them at the parts store. So I don't miss place them later....Iwant more ATF stories! I haven't done it yet, but I am leaning on doing it soon,

 

What are you waiting for?
It certainly won't hurt anything.
It's definately something every rotary owner should do periodically I think. Regardless of the condition of their motor.
I'm going to do it again on my engine. I'm going to let it soak longer this time (3 days) and also make sure each face is coated with plenty of ATF.

 

I'll be doing it in the next couple of days

 

damn i need to do this, thanks for the info guys

 

My GTUs has 170k miles I think it needs a rebuild but hey anything is worth a try. I will let you all know how it works I will probably do it in about a week. Peace

 

Hi, it's just little me. Ummm, i was thinking, something no one mentioned, when doing an ATF trick for a time less than 24 hrs. (if you want this done quicker, or have little patience and want to drive your car now) before adding the ATF to the engine put some fuel injector cleaner with the ATF. Start at like 50/50 mixture and the longer you plan on it sitting put in less fuel injector cleaner (more time/less cleaner). Hey the stuff goes in your engine anyways if you use it and it is a cleaner. I also think that it produces less smoke. I was told to do this by other fellow rx drivers when i first did it, but nobody has said anything. I think i got pretty much the same effect, but my cats were so terriblely clogged i couldn't tell the difference except that it idled better. Now that i have a new cat i want to do it again, as soon as i get new plugs. Maybe someone else can tell there story if they did it this way, or have more info. Talk to you later.

-Jessica