wild roadrace 20b vs ls7 rx7

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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 10:13 AM
  #26  
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From: Ortonville, MI
Originally Posted by ProjectD
Sounds like from this ONE video you have concluded that the 2 cars featured are the best that their respective camps have to offer. When in reality they are 2 random samples of what can be achieved.
This is like saying no 2 rotor can compete with a 20B...
Agreed.

My LS1 car puts out more power than an LS7 in a drag situation due to the nitrous. That wouldn't be as feasible to use on a road course, but I think I make my point.

Any engine can be made to have boat loads of power to an extent. I have seen 1200hp 4 cylinder civics that would make these guys look slow in the straights.

With that said my turbo 20b car should end up being faster than my nitrous ls1 car, but if I built a turbo 454 LSX engine the 20b engine would never stand a chance since the LSX block is good for at least 2000hp. But then here comes the guy with a completely re-engineered 20B based engine that will make even more HP than the LSX. So as mentioned these are random samples the only way to attempt to compare them would be to compare them at the limitations of there engine block/keg which is not exactly well defined.

All in all these are 2 excellent cars with excellent powerplants, 2 of my personal favorites!
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 08:17 PM
  #27  
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Instead of a piston vs rotary thread is there any update on the motor internals and the wear?
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Old Oct 19, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #28  
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this was a cool video. I can only imagine the two camps rooting for their respective engine platform the whole time

To be honest, it looks like the cars are pretty evenly matched. The only reason the 20b didnt stay ahead of the LS7 was it wasnt faster, it was just about the same. Whats the prove about the two? ABSOLUTELY NOTHING either way besides I think everyone enjoyed the video. (at least until one of the two heros crashed )
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 03:14 AM
  #29  
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From: nanaimo
Thanks for the compliments. There are a lot of details that affect the performance of a racecar so its hard to say which set up is better. In racing my car ( the 20b) we change something every year to make it faster ( and sometimes slower ) and Jack ( the red car) will probably do the same. I was able to watch Jacks partial in car video and can tell you his gearing and ride height was not optimized and he will be quicker nex year.
My car was slower this year as the engine was way down on compression.Usually it spools a lot earlier. Next time we will run the engine 20 less hours between rebuilds. The excessive wear of the apex and side seals damaged the housings and side plates due to excessive clearance and caused a lot of chattering at the 20 psi we run.
Just for information in 2009 we set a lap time of 1:08.5. This race our best lap was 1:10.3 vs 1:10.6 for the red rx7. The race winning ex trans am full tube frame Beretta had a best time of around 1:07. 6.

Some details on both cars :

20b :
gt42r with a T6 , 1.15 housing, street port/ Microtech by Forcefed Racing , jerico 5 speed, 1400 lb front spring, 1150 rear spring, penskes, mazda sport swaybar, stock rear bar, front splitter, rear wing custom made copy of a porsche 962 gtp car, 4 inch exhaust, tilton tripple disc, 14 inch fr. brakes/brembo gtr calipers $$$, 12.7 rear brakes with c5 corvette rr calipers, mintex f2r pads ( thats what nascar uses at Montreal, their hardest brake test), engine moved back about 5 inches, tripple pass rad, 4 inch intercooler, 2 huge fluidyne oil coolers, mazda dry sump, 2 bosch 44 pumps, 24 gal cell, steering quickener =2 turns lock to lock, nylon bushings, fiber glass body, doors, etc, 320 front/ 330 18 rear tires. Weight 2820 with out me.

ls7:
stock internals running gm ecu , headers, dry sump, intake upgrade, T56 tranny modified for 800 hp, stock diff ( both cars) , ohlins shocks with about 900 lb springs, 6 piston fr, 4 rr rotora kit, carbon fiber body, fully gutted interior including inside of unibody and wiring, chromoly cage, apr wing, ccw wheels, twin 3 inch exhaust, approx weight 2600 lbs.

Since the crash we have gutted the wiring on the car and will rewire with a painless kit, have already installed a carbon fiber dash, cut off the front frame horns, and will have to replace everything forward of the front shock towers . Except somehow the oil coolers were not damaged. Also going to a 360 rear slick!! I would like to get the weight closer to jacks but my car started out as a production class car and has not been built as light.

thanks to Forcefed for their contributions !

wouter
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 07:36 AM
  #30  
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Thank you very much for taking the time to tell us your setup.

Hopefully you will build it better over the winter.

Good luck this next year!
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Old Oct 20, 2010 | 09:16 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by rotaryinspired
Thank you very much for taking the time to tell us your setup.

Hopefully you will build it better over the winter.

Good luck this next year!
+1

Wouter, you have a truly amazing car man. I look forward to seeing that beast even faster. Obviously I'm also looking toward seeing you battle that bad@$$ lsx fd as both of you continue to optimize your setup. Good luck to both of you
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 11:49 AM
  #32  
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Sorry for the late reply on the findings of the well used 20b engine.

We tore the engine down and found all parts were in tact and no evidence of miss tune trauma..

The bearings were as good as the day we put them in and the e-shaft was beautifulll.

The apex seals had about the equivilent of 50 000 miles of wear!! The rotor housings were chattered and abused due to the height of the apex seals... The intermedeate plates had some decent step wear which would be good for a street application, but we are choosing to go all new parts as every bit of comp is important in this application of racing...

The rotors were good and they just started to run out at the apex due to the height of the apex seal... The bearings were mint and could run another 4 years without a problem...

So a long story short we are pleased with the rotating assembly and the lubrication is perfect!!! But we decided to refresh the engine every two seasons vs 4... This will definatley help with the premature wear of the housing/intermediate plates....

This time I am going to build the rotors to a spec that will maximize compression and move the spool up time down where needed.... Also we are considering the smaller of the two gt42r's and run a bit more boost..

It is going to be a great pump!!!
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 12:10 PM
  #33  
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Thank you for taking the time to update us. Where are you sourcing the new center plate if you don't mind me asking?

Awesome work. Can't wait to see some new vids of it next year.
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 02:25 PM
  #34  
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From: Mission B.C
Originally Posted by rotaryinspired
Thank you for taking the time to update us. Where are you sourcing the new center plate if you don't mind me asking?

Awesome work. Can't wait to see some new vids of it next year.
All the parts are going to be new except that plate... We have many 20b cores that I have purchased direct from Japan.... I have a mint center iron which has Wouters name on it...
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