What's the going rate on a 20B?
09-02-11, 09:35 AM
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What's the going rate on a 20B?
I have a complete 20B that I am thinking of selling. Have had it for a few years, project never got off the ground. I know there is a difference whether it is a A, B, C or D engine. I have a factory ECU+harness. Engine was sold to me with under 30k on it by Ray at Shane racing. Numbers where ground off the engine, going to check under the alternator see if that one is still there.
Have not really seen any on the private market to get an idea what one would go for. I will get compression numbers before I sell it. So let's assume good compression.
Any help in ballpark pricing would be appreciated.
Grant
Have not really seen any on the private market to get an idea what one would go for. I will get compression numbers before I sell it. So let's assume good compression.
Any help in ballpark pricing would be appreciated.
Grant
09-02-11, 05:09 PM
#5
I have a complete 20B that I am thinking of selling. Have had it for a few years, project never got off the ground. I know there is a difference whether it is a A, B, C or D engine. I have a factory ECU+harness. Engine was sold to me with under 30k on it by Ray at Shane racing. Numbers where ground off the engine, going to check under the alternator see if that one is still there.
Have not really seen any on the private market to get an idea what one would go for. I will get compression numbers before I sell it. So let's assume good compression.
Any help in ballpark pricing would be appreciated.
Grant
Have not really seen any on the private market to get an idea what one would go for. I will get compression numbers before I sell it. So let's assume good compression.
Any help in ballpark pricing would be appreciated.
Grant
If so that is normal on engines that were overhauled by Mazda in Japan. I have had plenty where the letter and # stampings where machined off the rotor housings.. But if you are talking about the #'s be ground off on the sideplates, Mazda Never did that..
09-02-11, 05:28 PM
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It is in storage, I am going this weekend to get a real good look to see if there are any numbers. I looked at it briefly a few months ago but I sorta did not know where to look.
I only looked at the rotor housings next to the 20B. Where else exactly would it be stamped?
I only looked at the rotor housings next to the 20B. Where else exactly would it be stamped?
09-02-11, 05:45 PM
#7
It is in storage, I am going this weekend to get a real good look to see if there are any numbers. I looked at it briefly a few months ago but I sorta did not know where to look.
I only looked at the rotor housings next to the 20B. Where else exactly would it be stamped?
I only looked at the rotor housings next to the 20B. Where else exactly would it be stamped?
If no numbers on the rotor housings.... Best other place.. top of the rear sideplate by the Oil filter, You will see a sqare shaped pocket and the number will be stamped next to it.. You might need a flashlight to see it..
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09-03-11, 09:02 AM
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Thanks for the info. I can't wait to get out there this afternoon and check it out. Feels like I am playing the lottery. Oh to have one of those D engines. I'll check in a let everyone know what I discover.
09-03-11, 05:41 PM
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Ok, so I was able to locate a stamping on the rear plate. No letters just 760. So I am guessing it is a early pre A engine. If anyone can offer further insight/series confirmation I would appreciate it. Any ways here are some pics for those who want to see. The front pulley is bent and as I recall a screw was put through the oil pan when they crated it. Not quite up for immediate sale. I have to figure out a way to haul it out of storage so that it is easily accessible for sale/shipment.
Grant
Grant
09-03-11, 07:50 PM
#13
My 20B was $2800 and was also a Pre-A code engine (#352). It was essentially a shortblock with oil pan, complete intake & fuel rails minus secondary injectors. All the numbers were on it and it had never been cracked open before.
As for yours, the front pulley would be swapped out for a FC/FD one, depending on the application. As for the oil pan, some careful attention with a TIG can fix that. If you're not feeling up to it, Defined Autoworks may have an extra one on hand from the 89 GTUs project. Try PMing Christopher W. or GTORX7. about it.
Best way to get an engine ready for sale is to put it on an engine stand. Borrow the hanging hooks from the engine in your car and get it mounted up. The actual shortblock is about 24"L x 14"W x 14"H and weighs about 330lbs. They're VERY easy to package and can easily fit in the back of a RX7 or any small hatchback.
Do you have compression numbers for it? Also, getting a pic of the exhaust ports would be a good move too. If it looks good there, I'll put some pressure on one of my buds to snag it for his FD.
As for yours, the front pulley would be swapped out for a FC/FD one, depending on the application. As for the oil pan, some careful attention with a TIG can fix that. If you're not feeling up to it, Defined Autoworks may have an extra one on hand from the 89 GTUs project. Try PMing Christopher W. or GTORX7. about it.
Best way to get an engine ready for sale is to put it on an engine stand. Borrow the hanging hooks from the engine in your car and get it mounted up. The actual shortblock is about 24"L x 14"W x 14"H and weighs about 330lbs. They're VERY easy to package and can easily fit in the back of a RX7 or any small hatchback.
Do you have compression numbers for it? Also, getting a pic of the exhaust ports would be a good move too. If it looks good there, I'll put some pressure on one of my buds to snag it for his FD.
09-18-11, 12:31 AM
#19
My 20B was $2800 and was also a Pre-A code engine (#352). It was essentially a shortblock with oil pan, complete intake & fuel rails minus secondary injectors. All the numbers were on it and it had never been cracked open before.
As for yours, the front pulley would be swapped out for a FC/FD one, depending on the application. As for the oil pan, some careful attention with a TIG can fix that. If you're not feeling up to it, Defined Autoworks may have an extra one on hand from the 89 GTUs project. Try PMing Christopher W. or GTORX7. about it.
Best way to get an engine ready for sale is to put it on an engine stand. Borrow the hanging hooks from the engine in your car and get it mounted up. The actual shortblock is about 24"L x 14"W x 14"H and weighs about 330lbs. They're VERY easy to package and can easily fit in the back of a RX7 or any small hatchback.
Do you have compression numbers for it? Also, getting a pic of the exhaust ports would be a good move too. If it looks good there, I'll put some pressure on one of my buds to snag it for his FD.
As for yours, the front pulley would be swapped out for a FC/FD one, depending on the application. As for the oil pan, some careful attention with a TIG can fix that. If you're not feeling up to it, Defined Autoworks may have an extra one on hand from the 89 GTUs project. Try PMing Christopher W. or GTORX7. about it.
Best way to get an engine ready for sale is to put it on an engine stand. Borrow the hanging hooks from the engine in your car and get it mounted up. The actual shortblock is about 24"L x 14"W x 14"H and weighs about 330lbs. They're VERY easy to package and can easily fit in the back of a RX7 or any small hatchback.
Do you have compression numbers for it? Also, getting a pic of the exhaust ports would be a good move too. If it looks good there, I'll put some pressure on one of my buds to snag it for his FD.
11-06-11, 07:57 PM
#20
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vxturboxv
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09-16-15 04:16 PM
20b, 50, aero, assembling, cod, crate, differences, housing, iron, letter, mazda, rebuilding, rotor, sale, whats
