Steve Kan will be here this weekend to dyno both my 7's.. I'm thinking 12psi on the Pettit Banzai 3 rotor. What do you guys think?

 

Hi Gonzz. Exciting to hear about the tuning session. My advice to you is to have the car tuned at 10 PSI for daily driving and then a higher setting, somewhere between 12 PSI and 14 depending on what the twins can handle. Pettit swears the twins can handle up to 15 PSI but I never acheived this in my car. Could have been my voltage issue?

Anyway, I'm assuming you have a boost controller that would allow this. If you don't then go for 12 PSI. 10 is a nice daily drive level and the 12-14 gives you nice extra kick.

Let me know how it turns out!

- If you don't mind, have Steve data log the temp levels on your car during the tuning session. My car is running between 205-210 and we're thinking this is too high. Would like to see what your Pettit setup runs.

 

What's your oil temperature at?

 

oil temp is almost the same as the coolant temp depending on the speed. sometimes, it runs slightly cooler than the coolant temp but it stays around 200F range.

 

Steve, should gonzz invest in an electronic boost controller? With a twin turbo setup, can he use a manual unit to get a tune at 10psi and then at a higher level, say 14psi? What advantages does an electronic boost controller give him? Boost creep prevention? Anything else with the twins?

 

I have a profec B spec II on my-rew powered SA i don't need on it . I can install it on the 20B if need be..

 

Going to call Cam in the A.M.

 

Cam will think it's "Banzai family week"! I just called him yesterday about my cooling issue. Cam was the one who installed the Profec B on my car to control the twins. Will be interesting to see what he has to say.

 

IMO, regardless of what turbo setup he has, it is worthwhile to install an electronic boost controller.

Boost Creep
This is ultimately determined by the size of the wastegate. Assuming the wastegate is not a limiting factor, max boost can be limited to the same level with a manual or electronic boost controller.

The advantage of an electronic boost controller is that the shape of the boost curve before and after the taget boost is achieved can be manipulated so that boost comes up faster and stays closer to the set value. The Greddy E-01 takes this to an extreme by holding the wastegate shut all together until a 'start boost' value is reached (~2.5psi below the target). At that point it begins to adjust the duty cycle value to hit and not overshoot the target 'base duty' that the controller is set to. The 'gain' value determines how much times the controller leaves itself to transition to the stabilized value.

 

Installing the profec B spec II tommorow.. going to dyno @ 12psi

 

^Good decision