I just talked to Rob at Pineapple racing about my 20B he is building. He suggested that i may want the dry sump system for my application/skills. He said since the oil pan is so long on the 20B and the pickup is in the rear, you could have problems under high g loads, particularly braking. He also said that they are susceptable to foaming more so than 13B's, even with screens and baffling. Mazda's dry sump system is about $2000 wich is a bit much, but a new engine is much more. This would obviously be of concern for road race cars such as what I'm building. He couldn't tell me about clearance issues with the 20B installed in a 2nd gen. MazdaComp has a kit that is internally driven which may help. The resovoir and filters could be located about anywhere. I will be running a big single and FMIC. Any thoughts/experience with any oil related problems and info about clearance issues with a dry sump system would be cool. Thanks

 

What are your "applications/skills"?

Yes, a dry sump would be in order for a race car, especially if the engine is built for high rpm's. The dry sump would also help with some of the clearance issues. If you are just building a street car, then I don't think it would be necessary to use a dry sump.

 

Car will be a primarily a road race car that will see occasional street use. Race it in NASA's unlimited class (only class out there for it) at Sears Point, T-Hill, Laguna Seca. Will run big slicks and all the susp. mods. Also plenty of noontime testing days seeing as how I work in a shop at Sears Point
Skills, well I've been driving Star Mazdas for a year now and either win or finnish top 5, not to mention the 4 other TII's from mild to wild over the last 10 years. By the way, most Star Mazda drivers suck. Wait, what does that say about me?

 

Who knows if a dry sump system would allow for fitment of a factory/aftermarket sway bar up front?

 

bringing this back from the dead.
can someone list some links for a dry sump system? this is not going to be for a 20B, it is for a 13b-rew but you guys may have the info i need. thanks.

 

Mazdaspeed is probably the best place to get a dry sump because they offer a couple of different models at the racer's discount price. Note that this is not a bolt-on modification because it requires a great deal of modifications to the housings. Mazdaspeed can fill you in on the details.
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com

Here is a link to the Peterson belt-drive dry sumps, which are also available from Mazdaspeed.
http://www.petersonfluidsys.com/index.html

 

Give Carlos a call at CLR Motorsports in Miami at 305-235-3696. He has done many road race dry sump setups on 12a's, 13b's and 20b's. He did the setup on my buddies 20b pro rwd drag Fd that is comming out later this year. From what I can recall you should not have a problem with the sway bar. Make sure and ask for the new style MFR dry sump pump. That sucker is huge and the volume is better suited for the 20b.
You gotta love 180psi of oil pressure from a dry sump pump not too mention the 16 qrts of oil needed in the tank.

crispeed
87 RX-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600lbs
un-tubbed

 

thanks for the help guys. i will start calling around. looking into it. actualy while i have two people who i really respect in one thread... what would be the benifit/drawback to this spacer that had to be made. the manifold is that OBX manifold from ebay, it is divided, but as many people have found recently the manifold is not made for a very large turbo. on top of that, while mounted on this dummy motor in the car, hot side was hitting the frame. so this is what was used to space it out. the turbo being used is undivided. is there going to be a problem? any help?? any explination as to why? thanks guys.