Ive looked over this message board and have found lots of info but im still lacking what I consider quite a bit. What is necessary to put the 20B in a 2nd gen and make it driveable.

I know the hood becomes an issue as well as the swaybar. But what is the bare minimum of what has to be done? Can I use the stock radiator? Is the stock 20B ECU good or is the Aftermarket one needed for reliabilty?

Basically what Im asking is how would I go abot swaping the 20B and have a driveable car?

any and all help is greatly appreacated.

 

stock computer is not as good as aftermarket but it can be done. the stock rad? no, i had a 800.00 dollar (canadian) rad made it doesnt keep it cool
http://www.agt.net/public/nowback/rx7club/20b/

matt

 

you need to reread everything, its basically all here. you need a giant radiator, and the stock ecu is maybe not worth the trouble.
the key is to decide what you want out of the car BEFORE you start, and dont change your mind.

mike

 

http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/SWAP/COSMO/20b.html



-Ted

 

Hehehe, nice try, but no takers.

LOL, that's the goal, anyway. Meanwhile, back in reality, you will end up making some changes, so take that into consideration when allocating the time and cost of the project.

 

hey guys thx for the posts.

Okey i understand now that the stock radiator is not up to the task. I know heat would be a problem but i was thinking additional oil coolers but you have changed my mind.

i think i got the jist of it. the sites provided have been a wealth of knowledge. im a bit fuzzy on the ECU to use, the ignition system with the modifications needed to run the aftermarket ECU and no one ever talks about how to address the suspension other then, "it will need to be adjusted to compensate for the added weight of the 20B"

 

"One of the biggest problems of this install is the stock front anti-sway bar. It will not fit without modification. This needs to be addressed as we're hanging almost 100 lbs. of "extra" engine weight over the front tires. You might want to mess around with heavier springs (and shocks?) up front to counter the extra weight - this all comes down to proper suspension tuning for the 20B."
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/SWAP/COSMO/20b.html

Also, if you relocate, remove, and lighten components in the engine bay, you can get your weight back to the stock specs. If you do not know how to set up a suspension, then simply drive or tow the car to an automotive shop that can do the work for you. The same goes for the EMS - just tow the car to a good rotary shop and tell them to make the engine work. There, the crisis is now solved.

If you don't have your own auto shop and skills, don't have $35K to have someone do the swap for you, or a combination of the two, then you are not going to have a 20B-powered car. I'm not trying to be harsh, just honest.

 

just looked that the engine mounts that FC3S.Org
are offering. Better price btw!
But
I find it hard to believe, all that holds their
passenger side mount on are the 3 studs, I wouldn't trust
that at all, someone tell me they are adding the extra brace
on that mount like the k2rd ones!

Matt

 

At the risk of sounding hard-to-get-along-with, don't go looking for the bare minimum. You'll only find heartache.

This is one of those tasks where there are a million ways to do it wrong and only a few to do it right. You've already had some good, specific advice, so I'll just deal with the high-level, philosophical issues.

You're trying to go for an ultimate go-fast machine. "Ultimate" anything requires bunches of money...except ultimate poverty. Every place you pinch pennies will, ultimately, pinch you.

Example: Besides the fabulous horsepower offered by the 20B, there are boatloads of torque. Any tire you can get under the stock fenders is just not enough. That's not just my opinion. The Mariah Motorsports 20B FC had custom offset rear wheels that allowed it to run 255-wide tires on the back, and Jim Hagerty said it still wasn't enough rubber on the road.

When I first had my car on the road, with 225-wide tires on it, I could punch it at 80 mph in 4th gear and turn the car sideways. It's fun, but not optimal performance.

If you can't afford to do it right, go for a well-setup 2-rotor, and you'll be happier in the long run. If you can afford to do it right, buy mine, and you'll have it more quickly.

 

I'm looking at doing this same conversion..
and I think it's a great thing..

I went for a ride recintly in a friends Rx3 with a 20B, TA51, Microtech fully built dowelled motor..

and torque is unreal. even the TA51 doesn't really seem to be a Lag pig.. it comes on very smoothly...

so now my FC3S is going ot recieve the treatment.. and I"m not cutting any corners in the Bolt on department..
once again TA51, Microtech, Big front Mount i/C, huge alloy Radiator..

I don't really think there is another way to do it effectively and less problematic..

All I've seen fron Retro fitting ECU's is hassles.. poor running, lean outs etc etc..

spend the money and make it work properly..

that's my advice all the way from Australia.