I'm having a FD transmission built by Liberty Transmission in Michigan. They are shot peening, heat stress relieving and cryo treating the gears. My second used transmission is about to let go in my 3 rotor. Neither trans was in good shape when I started though. I can give some updates when I get it installed. It could be a cheaper alternative (although not too much) if it holds up. However, I've had to spend some cash on a cluster gear since the original one was twisted.

 

Can some let me know how heavy that transmssion is.

 

love this swap!! where is the adaptor tho which you need to maker this work? who sells it? or makes it?

 

The tranny is about 120lbs w/o the bellhousing.

 

The plate you can get from summit racing http://store.summitracing.com/partde...7&autoview=sku

It will need new mounting holes drilled to match the auto bellhousing.

 

There may be a bit of a waite as the McLeod plate is on back order, i couldn’t get mine on time so im having it made up as we speak.

 

Iron,

Still running good. Can you please give us a general update? Approximate miles? What type of miles? Feel? so on and so on.

Thank you kindly.
ryan

 

I'm also a little curious as to what your highway mileage is with you more favorable 6th gear gearing.

 

Tranny is doing great. Working out of town the past year has put a limit on drive time. I only get to go home 4 days a month which sucks. The reverse grind has stopped now, after re-adjusting the clutch. The last few months I've mainly been tuning for e85. I've only put on less than 700 miles this year. I havn't done a mileage check yet.

 

Iron,

do you have to use an auto FD bell housing to make this work?

 

The starter on the fd bellhousing is in the way to go that route. There was somebody a while back who was talking about using a custom longer input shaft and a 4" adapter to clear the starter and put a Camaro t-56. I don't know what ever happend to the thread.

 

im in the process of using a auto bell housing to make it fit but the work is not finished yet so i dont know how it will work yet.

 

Also Spec do a custom clutch kit for this conversion which includes a twin min carbon cerametallic clutch and fly wheel for about $1300, its should be a nice bit of kit as the clutch disck's are made from the the same material as threre spec stage 3+ clutchs which i use to have on my fd and it was like a stock car.

P/N SZ47MTH

 

sorry guys i spoke to Spec and the clutch was a one off so they wont be makeing any more for the public but i'm working on somthing so i may be able to offer it to you guys in the future, if so il start an other thread on the subject.

 

I have a kit that I purchased wile back,

it comes with machined auto bell housing, tilton throwout bearing, spec twin clutch & fly wheel, custom adapter plate & starter, I think all I need is the mount, drive shaft & the T56 box If I use it on my fd,


I also have the C series b20 shaft & center iron with with new FD rotors and used housings, few more things to put it togeather,

cant make up my mind yet on what car should I run this setup,

I am also considering selling the whole setup to free some room
for other projects

not sure where do I post if I deside to sell,

IronMdnX keep us updated please on the durability of the t56

 

At the risk of sounding stupid. . . wouldn't using the Viper output shaft relegate one to using the Viper gearset and therefore synchros? The Viper (all pre-2008 I believe) only has single syncros all the way out (please correct me if I'm wrong).

I know G-Force makes a 1-4 triple syncro conversion, anyone know the price?


With the same risk as above. . . the Tri-Ax positions the shifter ball purely by virtue of its "bent" handle, correct?

 

Places sell a kit to upgrade the output shaft. It includes a modified extention housing with larger bearing and a shortened viper shaft. Another option is the SSR output shaft wich is larger 32 spline. Also Gforce has upgraded shafts availible.

 

Interesting bump, all of the pictures in the this thread have vanished. Anybody have them?

 

Also interested in seeing the pictures up again , very curious how the car is doing
One of the main reasons i havent boosted up yet is this ,tranny,

 

They were moved. here you go, as many as I could find.

 

Car is down for a while. Broke the E-Shaft back in Nov. It will be back up by spring if all goes well.

 

What was the suspected cause of the break and what series engine was it out of?
Also, how high were your rpms and what power were you making?

 

dang that GTO tranny is a near perfect fit! How well does it shift with the plastic surround on? Does the shifter ever come in contact with the plastic srround in any of the gears?

Does the boot ever pop off the shifter in any gear?

Reason why I ask, is it looks like the GTO shifter sits JUSST a little furthert back than the FD one.

 

The shifter is about .5 to .75 inch further back. In 6th gear it does touch the plastic retainer for the shift boot, but works fine. In the picture of the interior the tranny was held up by a jack. The tranny sits lower now after the rear made.

The E-saft broke at just over 6k rpm in 3rd at 25.5 psi boost. I'm sure it was flex, the assembly was never balanced. Power should be up there it is an 80mm turbo maxed out.
Thread on e-shaft breakage.
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/broke-e-shaft-today-797750/

 

Thanks for the pics , is that the 3 rotor starte or jus a regular auto starter?
who can make me one of those bell-housings ...damn looks sweet man real sweet