puma

iTrader: (2)

ok guys, what do you use?

do you use the T2 differential? what about the tranny? Is it better to pick up a FD tranny?

how do you mount them on the car, do you get a special driveshaft? I'd like to know what you guys have done with your 20B FC, drivetrain i mean.

thanks a lot

puma

Turbo 3

iTrader: (3)

Do a search...we've discussed transmissions extensively and exhaustively last fall & winter in a few different posts.

There's a few different approaches. Attila for instance, still has a complete TII trans front -> back. However, his motor is stock ported and he doesn't drive it like it's stolen either.

Others have contemplated anything from the TII, FD, AT cosmo, to a T-56, WS6, Sequential gearboxes, swapping the guts over to dogboxes on the TII/FD, etc.

On all the exotics, I believe you will need to cut the driveshaft and/or replace with a mod'd or fab'd one. The biggest thing to worry about (I think) is the issue with the splines.

Correct me if I'm wrong but... I thought it was better to start with replacing the differential and clutch as they are the two weakest points in the system for low to medium levels of power. High levels assume a complete hybrid system to handle the torque.

puma

iTrader: (2)

i did search and didn't find what i was looking for.

i understand that a stronger diff is important, but is the Fd or the T2 strong enough or do you have to use one from an other type of car?

i used to have an FD and i know how the power plant frame holds the tranny and the diff on the chassis, does it work the same way on an FC?

basically, i have about 23k to spend, will do most of the work myself and i am trying to see what would be the best options.

Turbo 3

iTrader: (3)

Strong enough for what exactly? You're not making it clear what it's supposed to realistically handle for torque... What is the car's intended application? Drag, road racing, street, etc.

I was told by Ray Lockheed of SR Motorsports when I asked the same question on differentials, that if you were going to stick with the stock FC differential, you were better off going with the 87TII one because the mechanical was stronger than the viscous style of the 89-91 TII's. FD's are stronger yet, and the next step would be jumping to a Kaaz which I believe are around $800 new.

I would say to save money just keep what you have and when it fails, worry about it then. Just don't do any high rpm clutch drops and it will be fine.

The other thing to be concerned with is the safety factor. Put some time into installing yokes for the driveshaft so if it does break, you won't find it in your lap.

puma

iTrader: (2)

hmm does are great answers, thanks for helping

Evil Aviator

The FD and TII transmission are nearly the same thing. Converting to the FD transmission is only going to result in a lot of work, and will add nothing to the strength of the drivetrain.

I'm still trying to figure out which transmission to use. Right now, it looks like a T56 because I like the 6 gears with the .50 6th gear ratio, and I want to use my current Mazdaspeed ultra lightweight flywheel and 5.5" Quarter Master 2-disk clutch pack. Also, it is easier to get a scattershield for the T56. This setup is for a road race car, not a drag car.

I have seen him drive it on the track. It was not exactly drag racing, but it was most certainly not being driven to church by some old lady, I can assure you.

Turbo 3

iTrader: (3)

I didn't mean he was shifting at 2-3K and babying it around Just that he wasn't trying to beat the tranny and tires unmercifally with high rpm drops and the like. He has made similar comments before about driving it nicely

My preference was to go with a WS6 gearbox or save up for a sequential 5-sp box w/ appropriate driveshaft, differential and half-shafts that would all mate up with "little" work. I would also like to keep my new ACT extreme clutch but may have to go with a 2 or 3 disc if it doesn't handle the abuse. I agree with Evil that for me, the setup would be for road/track racing, not drag.

Kurgan

"Granny shiftin' and not double clutchin' like yer suppose to!"

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i just leave mine in 5th

Attila the Fun

iTrader: (1)

That's a valid strategy when you're tired or just loafin'.

Around town, I usually shift in the 4K - 5K range. It's fast enough to be fun, but safe enough to allow for the drivers who are likely to do something stupid and/or malicious. It's no appreciable stress on the drivetrain, either.

On the track, I tend to shift at between 6500 and 7000 rpm. With stock rotor housings, revving it higher isn't efficient. Second to third gear puts some strain on the train. After that, it's just grin and go.

poor college student

evil, is the t-56 streetable?

tri_tam

yes i guess
but i have no idea how to fit them.
evil?any luck?

Evil Aviator

Since it is standard equipment on the Mustang, Camaro, Firebird, Corvette, and Viper, I would assume so.

Good news - my Quarter Master clutch pack is universal, so it will work with the T-56 if I change over to the 26-spline clutch plates. Still no word on a T-56 adapter.

tri_tam

do you have any idea how the double clutch work on street?
i think it'll be top, but i have no idea
just hope the f/t of 20b help

Evil Aviator

Well, the flywheel weighs around 3 lbs, so basically the car is not going to work in stop & go traffic.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yah, thats not gonna be tons of fun, but in the open it will be

mike