tell me why this wouldn't work...
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
tell me why this wouldn't work...
20B FC. Buy a whole cosmo clip including trans, ecu, wiring, etc. Transfer it into a stock auto FC, but use the cosmo auto trans. Clean up the cosmo wiring harness and supply the few necessary inputs to the cosmo ecu, and do a bit of rewiring to get things working properly. Fab up motor mounts, plumbing, trans mount, driveshaft. Bolt in a 4.33 LSD rear to help the auto launch and have fun with a quiet, emissions legal, easy to drive yet powerful car with plenty of low end pull (3 rotor sequential) that appears stock on the outside, and do it for under 10 grand, same or less than the cost to build an equivalently fast manual 2 rotor turbo FC.
I know everyone immediately dismisses the idea of using the stock ecu and keeping sequential turbos operational, but I'd like to explore it. It'd cost little to nothing (other than the cost to actually get the clip) and would result in the best low end possible. It also eliminates the need for custom computers and tuning, which is a never ending cycle in my experience.
I've driven a few auto FD's and found them to be very bearable especially for daily driving and the ocasional highway pull. I think if someone built the above car it could hurt some feelings in a hurry.
I am pondering on this as my next project. I am sort of tired of the rough idle, loud 300+hp 2 rotor scene, and I came to realize that the 3 rotor does that in stock, quiet form with a nicer low end.
I know everyone immediately dismisses the idea of using the stock ecu and keeping sequential turbos operational, but I'd like to explore it. It'd cost little to nothing (other than the cost to actually get the clip) and would result in the best low end possible. It also eliminates the need for custom computers and tuning, which is a never ending cycle in my experience.
I've driven a few auto FD's and found them to be very bearable especially for daily driving and the ocasional highway pull. I think if someone built the above car it could hurt some feelings in a hurry.
I am pondering on this as my next project. I am sort of tired of the rough idle, loud 300+hp 2 rotor scene, and I came to realize that the 3 rotor does that in stock, quiet form with a nicer low end.
Easier said than done, The member "Now" used the stock ECU and Auto tranny in his 10th AE. If you want to leave everything pretty much stock then whats the point in the end? 240 HP? There is a future for the motor but then you've got to deal with the auto tranny in the future.
Kevin,
I see where you are coming from but becool's right. If you use the stock ecu and stock auto trans, you are really limited in the options. Plus you have to cool the stock twin turbos and the motor, plus the auto tranny (a problem out here in az). The stock ecu is most likely limited to 180Kph (115mph). And then you really only have about 300HP, which is fairly easy to attain on a 2 rotor. Also, the ecu might be flashed for japanese high octance which was about 105 octane or so. Im sure you "could" do it....
I see where you are coming from but becool's right. If you use the stock ecu and stock auto trans, you are really limited in the options. Plus you have to cool the stock twin turbos and the motor, plus the auto tranny (a problem out here in az). The stock ecu is most likely limited to 180Kph (115mph). And then you really only have about 300HP, which is fairly easy to attain on a 2 rotor. Also, the ecu might be flashed for japanese high octance which was about 105 octane or so. Im sure you "could" do it....
ok I am here now
Kevin you just outlined what i did and it works not bad, heat is an issue, the auto makes lots of heat.
I have my car working not bad and it doesn't overheat, until i push it hard, say like autoxing it heats up
fast taking only a couple runs then takes for ever to cool to make another run.
the auto trani works quite well the way i have it, but it works much better in manual mode
only problem is the computer needs the sending unit connected to the trani to get this to work.
not a problem if you dont need the speedo working in the car, but if you remove the sender to attach the
speedo cable you loose the manual auto mode.
the stock trani allows the motor to rev way to high before it shifts, how high? well the buzzer goes off
in my car any time my foot is to the floor for extended periods.
this sounds nice but its out of its power band (in its stock form) at anything over about 6500rpm.
so my next project it to put a TII trani behind it, this will remove the heat from the auto trani and give
me the control over when shifting is done. I think this will work really well..
then the next step is to setup my re-amemiya modded stock computer which is said to be good to 15psi of boost
wire up an electronic boost control and turn things up a little.
I am sure 13 or 14 lbs of boost will work nicely
It is a lot of work to get the cosmo wiring sorted out but it can be done.
later
matt

Kevin you just outlined what i did and it works not bad, heat is an issue, the auto makes lots of heat.
I have my car working not bad and it doesn't overheat, until i push it hard, say like autoxing it heats up
fast taking only a couple runs then takes for ever to cool to make another run.
the auto trani works quite well the way i have it, but it works much better in manual mode
only problem is the computer needs the sending unit connected to the trani to get this to work.
not a problem if you dont need the speedo working in the car, but if you remove the sender to attach the
speedo cable you loose the manual auto mode.
the stock trani allows the motor to rev way to high before it shifts, how high? well the buzzer goes off
in my car any time my foot is to the floor for extended periods.
this sounds nice but its out of its power band (in its stock form) at anything over about 6500rpm.
so my next project it to put a TII trani behind it, this will remove the heat from the auto trani and give
me the control over when shifting is done. I think this will work really well..
then the next step is to setup my re-amemiya modded stock computer which is said to be good to 15psi of boost
wire up an electronic boost control and turn things up a little.
I am sure 13 or 14 lbs of boost will work nicely

It is a lot of work to get the cosmo wiring sorted out but it can be done.
later
matt
Originally Posted by bcool
Easier said than done, The member "Now" used the stock ECU and Auto tranny in his 10th AE. If you want to leave everything pretty much stock then whats the point in the end? 240 HP? There is a future for the motor but then you've got to deal with the auto tranny in the future.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
IT was to my understanding that the stock ecu cannot work without the stock auto trans behind it, which was the main reason i thought of keeping it there.
Also, don't you have a dedicated tranny cooler and fan for the auto trans? If my denali can pull 10,000lb (truck plus trailer and car) and keep the trans temp under 175 with a cooler and fan, surely the auto trans from the (heavy) cosmo can pull around a 2900lb car without overheating?
Also, don't you have a dedicated tranny cooler and fan for the auto trans? If my denali can pull 10,000lb (truck plus trailer and car) and keep the trans temp under 175 with a cooler and fan, surely the auto trans from the (heavy) cosmo can pull around a 2900lb car without overheating?
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
IT was to my understanding that the stock ecu cannot work without the stock auto trans behind it, which was the main reason i thought of keeping it there.
Also, don't you have a dedicated tranny cooler and fan for the auto trans? If my denali can pull 10,000lb (truck plus trailer and car) and keep the trans temp under 175 with a cooler and fan, surely the auto trans from the (heavy) cosmo can pull around a 2900lb car without overheating?
Also, don't you have a dedicated tranny cooler and fan for the auto trans? If my denali can pull 10,000lb (truck plus trailer and car) and keep the trans temp under 175 with a cooler and fan, surely the auto trans from the (heavy) cosmo can pull around a 2900lb car without overheating?

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Originally Posted by bcool
I dont think you understand the full extent of what cooling issues we deal with on our 20B's.
I'll most definetly will find out this summer when I finally get mine running in my Fd. The cooling set-up I have in mind should work really well.
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
IT was to my understanding that the stock ecu cannot work without the stock auto trans behind it, which was the main reason i thought of keeping it there.
Also, don't you have a dedicated tranny cooler and fan for the auto trans? If my denali can pull 10,000lb (truck plus trailer and car) and keep the trans temp under 175 with a cooler and fan, surely the auto trans from the (heavy) cosmo can pull around a 2900lb car without overheating?
Also, don't you have a dedicated tranny cooler and fan for the auto trans? If my denali can pull 10,000lb (truck plus trailer and car) and keep the trans temp under 175 with a cooler and fan, surely the auto trans from the (heavy) cosmo can pull around a 2900lb car without overheating?

first in line is the IC
then the trani cooler
then the engine oil cooler
and last the radii
all of which have to be installed almost standing straight up
to make room for the 20b being longer.
its hard to get enough flow through all that to cool everything.
as it is now i have no problems in traffic or on the hiway even long wont
runs its ok as long as there is forward movement its just during auto where
heat seems to build up, and take forever to cool down.
the auto train holds lots of heat and i am sure the extra heat that it puts up
front adds to the problem.
I am sure that i can get the motor to run without the auto behind it, i have already
run it with the control box and some of the wiring disconnected, the motor ran fine
but the train only had 2nd, so i am hoping that it shouldn't be to hard to remove
the auto from the picture.
its a month or two away before i can work on it but will post my results when
it happens.
matt
matt
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
a friend of mine built a 20b b2600 pickup, he left the aut trans computers hooked up and the ecu thinks its in drive.
the easiest way to do this is to buy the clip, that way you have everything. i'm in the middle of doing this WITHOUT the clip, and ive got a lot of time looking at wiring diagrams in japanese.
the easiest way to do this is to buy the clip, that way you have everything. i'm in the middle of doing this WITHOUT the clip, and ive got a lot of time looking at wiring diagrams in japanese.
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
a friend of mine built a 20b b2600 pickup, he left the aut trans computers hooked up and the ecu thinks its in drive.
the easiest way to do this is to buy the clip, that way you have everything. i'm in the middle of doing this WITHOUT the clip, and ive got a lot of time looking at wiring diagrams in japanese.
the easiest way to do this is to buy the clip, that way you have everything. i'm in the middle of doing this WITHOUT the clip, and ive got a lot of time looking at wiring diagrams in japanese.
work as well.
I would have loved to have that truck, it would have been a blast

matt
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by now
kind of hard to start if its in drive, maybe it was neutral it was left in that should
work as well.
I would have loved to have that truck, it would have been a blast
matt
work as well.
I would have loved to have that truck, it would have been a blast

matt
I have a Cosmo 20B front clip that I'm pulling the engine out of. Everything else including turbos, auto trans, harnesses, ECU, coils, etc will be for sale. Very cheap if you want to drive up and grab it as a lot.
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