What is required to do this on a 20B? Is it a direct swap or do you need to replace the front cover? Anyone have pics of this? Am considering running the RE-MEDY water pump on my car to improve coolant flow.

 

From the pics I have seen of your engine you are running the FD water pump.

The FD waterpump and housing bolt directly to the 20B, the front cover does not need to be changed.

 

^ Thanks so much. I guess I could have posted up pics

I'll grab some pics later and ask for verification. Gotta go help the inlays move

 

i just used a turbo2 s4 front cover and the t2 waterpump fit right on... oh yeah, you have to move the mounting bolt to the next hole on the left...

 

David, If you are running a FD water pump, the RE-Medy will be bolt straight on to your existing water pump housing...

or are you looking at putting a series 4/5 water pump onto your car?


On a side note, has anyone played around or have good info on external water mods, ie tapping coolant lines into the rotor housing water jackets??

Cheers Dave.

 

Have you considered the electric water pump option? Im going to be running the meizer ewp, should have it installed soon, it should suit well with banzai cruises and rolling through traffic to the local coffee shop

 

Here is a pic of the water pump. Can you guys confirm it is an FD water pump? I believe it it which would make the swap to the RE-MEDY one a piece of cake. During the engine rebuild I was the one that put the water pump back on but I never asked if it was a 20B one or an FD.:



And FYI, the engine in it's finished state:



I have considered and EWP. Any thoughts on what might work best to control water temps? I know about parasitic HP problems with a manual pump, but my main focus is to cool down the engine. The RE-MEDY pump looks like it can flow some coolant:

http://www.mazmart.com/ItemDetail.aspx?id=455

There isn't much of a cost differential between the two so I'm open to suggestions. With the EWP what else do I need to swap out? I know the EWP no longer is part of the belts but what do I take off or need to replace?

Thanks for all the help.

 

You have an FD pump.

 

^ Thanks Chris. Any thoughts on the RE-MEDY water pump versus an EWP?

 

If I had cooling issues I guess I would try the mazmart part before adding another electric component to my engine bay. I have tried very hard to keep it as clean as possible, the replacement pump would be a direct swap without any custom fabrication.

Luckily my car always runs cool.

 

^That was my conclusion. More electrical stuff on the car can only cause one more point of failure.

Although the flow rate data of the RE-MEDY water pump is only anecdotal, they are observations from Rick England and Jim Downing as well as a few other high up Mazda guys so that is pretty solid.

Going to try one once they are back in stock. In the meantime, I did swap out the 180F thermostat for a Mishimoto 160F unit, and initial testing is quite good. Took the car out a few days ago in 88F temps and 90% humidity (heatwave here in NC) and temps dropped by around 7C across the board with the new thermostat.

Without AC on, temps never got higher than 88C no matter what speed I went (had a problem with going faster in the past - temps went up as I went faster) and temps were actually lower on the higher than in the city which was the opposite of what I had.

With the AC on, temps never went above 94C with prior temps being in the 100-102C range.

Much better results than I thought. Call me impressed.

 

Does anyone know the flow difference between the 20B waterpump and the Re-Medy?

 

There is no definitive flow testing data for the RE-MEDY pump. My understanding is that it flows better than the 20B unit and the 20B unit is better than the 13B pump.

Rick England developed the RE-MEDY unit after the Mazda LeMans 787B winner pump or so the story goes. The RE-MEDY has been tested by quite a few big name guys with positive results.

 

I dont think you should write off the ewp setup quite yet. Mine is going in this week so i will post pics and compare to the stock 13b waterpump I was running previous......

The power draw is so small I would not even consider that as a deterent, and if you take time with the fab work it should look really slick and clean which is how I like my engine bay.

 

Brain freeze!! As Chris from Banzai Racing points out, it is Rick Engman, not "England". Thanks for the correction Chris and sorry Rick.

 

Look forward to your results, post them up! I'm just thinking one less electrical part is a good thing and if the RE pump can flow well, it has the advantages of essentially being a drop in part.

 

I had a chance to drive my 20b with the EWP for the last 12 days. We were getting day time temps hitting 35Celcius which is rather warm for up here and evening temps of 25celcius. I drove the car both at day time peak temps and during the evening.

I drove through town, stop lights, highway, and rural. Crusing during the day my water temps would be between 82 -84celcius and when I would reach a stoplight or slow traffic they would spike to 88celcius but quickly drop back to 82-84c once cruising. During boosting water never went over 88c and would immediatly drop back to 82-84c once out of boost.

Evening cruising was where i was really surprised, my temps were as low as 78celcius steady on the highway and only reaching 82c-84celcius under boosting. My oil temps are also very cool only seeing a peak of 190Degress during boosting on the hot afternoons and 185degrees during evening boosting. Cruising temps were at 175 to 185 degrees steady and constant.

Compared to running an FD water pump all last year I can tell you the ewp works beyond my expectations. I have never ran this cool ever in either my (5) 13b and (2) 20b setups over the last 10 years. The power draw of the pump is so minimal you dont even notice it. My 42r turbo is both oil and water coooled if your wondering.

I can post pics in a few days if interested.......

 

Nice temps. Yes please post up pics. MazMart has been out of their upgraded pump so I haven't done anything yet. We did find a slight leak in the gasket which could explain some of my issues.

 

Slightly thread jacking.. but I am just swapping my 20B over to a 13B waterpump assy.. doing so I notice I need to remove the filler neck part to gain hood clearance. I see you have a little elbow in place of this with a filler neck welded on. First question is was that made or bought? Second is do you need to have the filler neck part there or can that go on the rad or a separate expansion bottle and just run a plain pipe there? I am sure I have seen this. I believe a 13B FC runs a plain elbow here. Will this bolt straight to the 13B FD housing?

Thank you
Lee

On an aside have defined autoworks stopped trading? Their webpage appears to be down and I thought they were listed as a vendor here but don't seem to be now?

 

^The part was made by Kilo Racing. Pretty sure you don't have to have the filler cap there and it can be relocated somewhere else. Don't know if a 13B FC will bolt right up but there is a thread somewhere that has pics of several different setups working without the cap in that position. I think you'd be fine.

Finally, Defined Autoworks is alive and well. They are working on a 4 rotor The website seems to have issues though but try Facebook:

Defined Autoworks | Facebook

 

Thanks David,
That is cool.. Will try and search out that thread.. If you know it off hand please post a link up.

Cheers
Lee

 

Why change it to a 13B water pump at all?

I can understand why you wouldn't need a 20B pump on a 13B, but it's beyond me why anyone would even consider putting a smaller water pump on a bigger engine.

 

Anyone have comp shots of the two? Didn't know the 13B was smaller. In any event will be trying the REMEDY pump when it's back in stock.

Also found a leak in the gasket and fixing that seems to have solved my temp issues

 

I'm running a Davies Craig ewp on my N/A FD an it has performed flawlessly.
I run my pump through the Motec ecu in full closed loop setup. It speeds up and slows down based on PWM duty cycle control.
This means the pump is barely running at cold start to simulate a thermostat but without any flow restrictions :-)
The thermo fan hardly comes on as the ewp ramps up the flow to 100% when stopped in traffic as the engine warms up the natural convection of the radiator sheds heat without the thermo fan kicking in very often.
I have a vented bonnet too which helps alot.
I have the thermo fan running the same way too in closed loop so it speeds up and slows down which is much more efficient way than switching on and off.
I will have to post up one of my data logs of how the pump and fan come on and off, a nice sinusoidal curve just maintaining the perfect temps. And I save a few kgs of weight too.
I feel this is a far superior setup to OEM running this way.
The main advantage being you can run coolant flow speed completely independent of RPM.
My ewp runs an AVERAGE of around 30% duty cycle which means the pump is hardly moving much water and has another 70% left to go before maxing out.
It's amazing how much these little suckers can pump.
And that's all on a 20B too !

Yes I realize its plumbed back to front but its so efficient it doesn't matter -


The nifty gadget which makes all this sophisticated control possible -

 

^^ checked out that water pump last night... Looks like an incredible idea as long as the reliability is there.