Anyone here ever run a remote oil filter on your FD or 13BRE/20B engine?

I need to know how hard it is to run a remote filter on my 20B. My project car has limited space at the back of the engine.

Let me see if I understand this right: The oil gets sucked up into the pump and then goes to the top of the oil cooler, then it comes out the bottom, under pressure, and goes into the rear plate if it's an FC or older, or into the filter pedistal if it's a 20B or 13BREW. It then goes through the filter and into the 'recieving hole' and on to the bearings.

If the oil goes directly into the pedistal, than what does the 'sending hole' do? I noticed the 20B doesn't have an oil pressure guage sender in the usual spot. Instead, it has a little hex-head plug. Is this just a dead spot in the engine? Or is oil pressure still there?

Also, if I were to use a remote filter, what type of 'pedistal' should I use on the engine? Does anyone make one? I already have the remote filter mount and hoses. I just need a pedistal. Thanks.

 

cough...

 

On the rear plate there are two holes. One (closer twards the center of engine) goes to the bearings and lubes the engine. The other goes down to the pressure relief valve. Both holes or ports see the same oil pressure. Only the oil that gets to the bearings get filtered, the oil that passes through the relief just dumps back in to the pan. I'm guessing there is no oil pressure gauge in the Cosmo due to the 1/8" plug being there. I took out the plug and put my sender from my old 12a in the hole so my stock gauge would work on my FB.

As you can see I to want to run a remote mount oil filter also so I made this, a adapter that takes place of the oil filter and pedistal. It took me a long time to make because I did it all manual on a old bridgeport mill at work. I made another but it isn't nearly as nice as this one, it's all square. I machined a -8 ORB port in it and o-ring groves on the other side to seal it like the stock pedistal does. Had to machine it -8 because a -10 would be too large (would get into bolt holes) but thats ok I'm just going to use a -8orb to -10 jic fitting and put it in the lathe to make the ID the same as a -10.

 

Nice! I had actually gone to bed and the thought just kept going through my head, so I turned the computer back on and wrote that post.

I'm like Duh! Of course it goes down to the rear pressure regulator if it doesn't go to the bearings.

Would you sell your square one?

Are those ORB fittings the same as used on fuel cells? They look familier.

I'd also need a 90º adaptor to go forward. What kind of store sells them?

 

You could use a fitting from a spare front cover so long as you don't mind metric.

Gary

 

I just recieved a thick Summit Racing catalogue in the mail. The first page I flipped to had Aeroquip fittings. It looks like -6, -8, -10, and -12 are popular sizes. Would one of their 90º elbow fittings work?

I don't think I'd have enough room to use a stock fitting with a straight hose coming out of it. The back of the engine will be under the tranny tunnel. Good idea though.

 

Jeff20b- I'd have to go out to the garage and check to make sure I still have it. I can put any fitting in it you want (I work in the fluid power buisness) If I can find it I'll take pic's for you to evaluate it.
You said you already have the filter/head and the lines, what size lines are they? I can get a 90deg fitting for it to match what you have.

rotaspec- you can't use a metric fitting in the block I made, only SAE o-ring boss.

 

Heres mine. Has -12 line running to it at the top and grooves for o-rings on the bottom. Access hole on the side to connect both passages was filled, yuou can see it. Hope it got hot enough to hold the 120psi

 

dp

 

another pic

 

Mine is the same thing but with a Y instead of a T. Looks like you used 1/2" NPT for the fitting side.

 

Found it! Was sitting under my tool box out in the garage Been there for over a year now so thats why it's dirty. In the 1st pic you can see what a ORB port looks like. It uses a o-ring to seal instead of pipe. I have a couple socket head cap screws that go with it and also o-rings. Like I said earlier I can get any fitting you need.

 

My hoses look like they're 1/2" ID. Barbed fittings and hoseclamps were used throughout. I don't think barbed fittings stretch hoses much, do they? Anyway, I don't know which AN number 1/2" is.

If you need more info, just let me know. I could measure the sizes with a digital caliper. Things like what wrench size to use on the fittings, length of the barbed section, inner and outer diameter of the fittings and hoses, number of threads per inch (or the metric equivilant) on the threaded section of the fittings, brand names of the parts if I can find them, etc.

Sorry, this fitting stuff is all new to me. Can't you tell?

RX-Heven, nice piece!

Edit: I just saw your square one. So that's what an ORB fitting is. Interesting.

It actually looks a little big. I guess it could be cut down a little with a hacksaw? No, I wouldn't want to ruin it.

In the space of a day I've leaned tons about remote oil filter stuff. Thanks for all the info.

 

barb fittings ehh... ever have leaks?
anyways 1/2" hose is -8. look to see if you can find a 1/2" barb to -8 JIC female fitting. If we can find one of these I think were in buisness.
Don't know what I'd sell it for, what's it worth to ya ?

 

No leaks on the other engine. Also, my rotary MG Midget has fabric covered hose with stock fittings and hose clamps. The stock outer crimps were cut off, leaving the barbed sections. Two hose clamps mounted 180º apart seems to work well. My 20B needs custom length hoses, so I figured the two clamp trick should work here too.

According to Summit, the fuel cell that came with the car is a 16 gallon which has -8 fittings on the "drag racing" sump and a -6 on the upper vent. Now I'm starting to understand the sizes better.

I didn't see any JIC fittings. What's it worth to me? I need to sell some 20B stuff before I'll have any money. Hmm, I know I could have one machined locally and get an NPT fitting on it... hmm... Do you think that would be better for me to do, since I need a short 90º fitting anyway?

 

Having a local machinist might be a better way to go then you could have the port come out of the side of it instead of the top like mine. This way you'd have even more clearance and woulden't have to have a 90 in there.
If you can't get one made to what you want and decide to get mine let me know. I'll probably still have it sitting here.

 

Just to mix it up a bit, Racing Beat also sells a remote filter kit. I don't know anything about it though.

I like setzup better, the first one that iz. Looks a bit shorter and narrower. I had to use -12 fittings instead of -8 or -10 though. Plus I like how it is shaped to match where it mounts (I think). Nice machining job, not to mention it's all shiny. I also like the countersunk holes to accomodate allen bolts. Think I'll have to do that with mine. Under pressure, a 't' and an angle junction are effectively the same.

 

Thanks for the kind words. Yeah it's shaped to match the flange on the rear plate. I first made it and it looked like the square one but my machinist buddy saw it and offered to "trim" it up a little for me. Turned out better than I thought it would

True, a T and Y are not all that much different in this case. Willing to bet there isn't much pressure drop difference between the two. I was just telling him how mine was made.

 

setzep, I recieved a payment for some of my 20B stuff in my paypall account today. I'm just waiting 3 to 4 bussiness days for it to appear in my bank account. Anyway, as soon as I get the 20B mounted in the car (next week most likely, I'm so excited), I'll have an idea if your filtereliminator will fit or not. I'll let you know.