Now that Mva's secret is out.....

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Old May 28, 2004 | 11:31 AM
  #51  
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Why go through all the trouble of replacing the rear plate when it would be much easier to fabricate new motor mounts? Since the subframe has to be modified I dont think it would take a whole lot more to do some mounts at the same time.

Last edited by TitaniumCranium; May 28, 2004 at 11:33 AM.
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Old May 28, 2004 | 11:42 AM
  #52  
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Originally posted by TitaniumCranium
Why go through all the trouble of replacing the rear plate when it would be much easier to fabricate new motor mounts? Since the subframe has to be modified I dont think it would take a whole lot more to do some mounts at the same time.
Cranium,

Not trying to be rude.. But there are couple of reasons why its benificial to mount on a stock Subframe vs. fabricated subframe. Most has to do with steering issue.. I haven't done 20B conversion, but I've been reading about this for awhile..

Far as time, I think subframe is less time consuming, but If I were to do 20B, I would rather mount it on a stock subframe and rebuilt the engine... If its possible..
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Old May 28, 2004 | 01:31 PM
  #53  
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I understand the steering issue, which is all but unavoidable if the stock trans and PPF are used...all the extra length from the motor goes foreward. As far as hight goes you're in the same boat, cant change it without changing the rest of the driveline. and if you just take a little time measuring and designing, I feel that it would be beneficial to have custom mounts. And 13B motor mounts are gonna run at least 300 bucks (assuming that you have a core set). I'd rather build my own mounts... but I also have all the necessary tools to fabricate mounts If the tools and skills arent there then its pointless, but I've seen some pretty good fabrication on this forum and if you can make a subframe, or intercooler piping, or a turbomanifold then mounts should be a cake-walk. Just my .02 cents

Dan-o
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Old May 28, 2004 | 01:47 PM
  #54  
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Dan-o,

Like I said, I've not done this mod.. But friend of mine here is doing a 20B swap.. He ended up getting a subframe made by person who does LS1 conversion (Brian Hinson). He acturally did a fantastic job on the subframe.. Suppose to elliminate the bump steer issue..

Only concern I have about changing the steering mechanism of the FD is because its so well designed.. I rather not mess with it.. My friends 20b will be the first one with bump steer fix.. If it works out well, I would consider "Hinson" subframe.. Otherwise, I'm leaning more towards the rebuilt and using stock subframe.
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Old May 30, 2004 | 01:19 AM
  #55  
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Originally posted by TitaniumCranium
Why go through all the trouble of replacing the rear plate when it would be much easier to fabricate new motor mounts? Since the subframe has to be modified I dont think it would take a whole lot more to do some mounts at the same time.
i agree with your idea... but you would need to enlarge the hole in the subframe to accomidate the 20b's oil pan, or build a new oil pan to accomidate the FD subframe. yes, i think coustom motor mounts to mate the 20b rear plate to the FD subframe could be a possibile solution if you deal with the oil pan problem. i havent gotten started on my project yet (i was just planning on using a pettit frame) but maybe some measurements are in order to consider enlarging the hole in the subframe and making coustom motor mounts (because $2100 is alot of money).

my only thought is if this was so easy, why wouldnt this be a more popular method of mounting? food for thought
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Old May 30, 2004 | 04:47 PM
  #56  
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Making the mounts would work. It would be similar to what Acostaracing has done by switching rear plates and using Fd mounts. That and a custom oil pan will clear the rack however; you would also have to shorten the LIM. Dragon mounted his 20b just like Acostracing does and he had to shorten the LIM as well to get the hood to close because the engine sits higher with Fd mounts than with a subframe. With a subframe you don't have this problem. So overall it's much easier to build a custom subframe thats makes fitment easier than to modify numerous parts to make the engine fit. Overall both methods have their advantages and disadvantages but using the subframe makes it a bolt on project which makes it easier.

Look at it like this:

Subframe route:
Pros
1. bolt-on.
2. engine sits lower
Cons
1. bump steer
2. cost

Custom mounts/rear plate:
Pros
1. no bump steer
Cons
1. custom oil pan to clear rack
2. modified shortend LIM
3. port matching of rear plate
4. engine sits higher
5. Overall more custom work which could make it even more expensive than a subframe.



Last edited by t-von; May 30, 2004 at 05:10 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2004 | 10:02 AM
  #57  
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Can you not make inserts for the links .... many other cars have aftermarket inserts and they are like only 100-150$

Two aluminum spacers
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 12:14 AM
  #58  
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because they want your money!

Originally Posted by jamesdeanrx7
ok now Ive written two companies and one of them being pineapple racing, and autotech they both jsut tell me that the cost will be 15, to 35,000 no one wants to do what I want them too why...

rotor motor when you adapt the 13b rear plate, thats wheny you get perfect alignment to the fd tranny

come on guys they are a business, if they go the easy route, now they can't soak you for the labor, this is business..... they are in the business to make money, not for the fun of it.

ken
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 06:11 AM
  #59  
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Bringing this thread back..

I need to know how much I need to shorten the LIM to clear the hood.

I'm getting the engine and intake manifold ready.
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