what company does one suggest can put a package of the 13b rear plate mated to the 20b motor so we can use the fd mounts and put in in the fd tranny together and or if not an oil pan aswell that would not be overpriced. Im thinking along the lines of 5,6 thousand with rebuild etc.. most. What do you guys think can someone work on this with resources to get this done for everyone??

let it ride.......................

 

Any decent rotary shop should be able to do it. The oil pan is going to have to be custom made and since you have to take the motor apart to put the 13b rear housing on the motor you might as well have the motor streetport'd which is going to run 5K+ not to mention the oil pan. If you got a good motor it is cheaper to just buy a subframe and modified spindles.

 

Maybe I'm not understanding your post right, but why would you change the end plate to match the fd trany.

 

just for the mount locations for the 3rd gen.

matt

 

yes like Now said, for mount locations, and easier adapting to tranny,

 

Atually I have already written one company that has done this and asked them about doing it but I got no response what so ever no even A will get back to you the company was autotech motorsports in Sandiego Ca

 

do tell me more about problems mating 20b to fd tranny. ive heard that there is only one bolt that doesnt line up... how have people dealt with this? any pictures?

 

ok now Ive written two companies and one of them being pineapple racing, and autotech they both jsut tell me that the cost will be 15, to 35,000 no one wants to do what I want them too why...

rotor motor when you adapt the 13b rear plate, thats wheny you get perfect alignment to the fd tranny

 

Actaully if you give autotech motorsports a call they be more than happy to talk to you over the phone regarding what you want them to do. And besides the 3 rotor car that autotech has uses a 13BREW rear plate where the mounts are located. There number is : (858) 558-1100.

 

i know that when you use the FD rear plate then everything is cool, but i was asking about the stock 20b rear plate. can someone talk about using the stock 20b with the FD tranny and problems /logistics? pictures if you have any.....

 

Rotormotor, there are no real problems with mating a FD tranny to a 20B, there is one bolt @ the top of the tranny that does not match, all others match.

 

20B 3RD GEN: thanks for the info! will i need to weld a flange to the tranny for the last bolt, or is that not really necissary?

also i was wondering how you dealt with the flywheel/counterweight problem? can you briefly talk about that?

i have a front clip and im just getting started tearing things apart, but im trying to get all of my ducks lined up before i get knee deep in this project. also my garage is a complete mess so im still working to make some room . thanks, heath

 

there is no flywheel counter wieght problem. the engine comes with a counter wieght, so all you have to do is get an aftermarket flywheel and viola` you're done!

mike

 

rx720 thanks for the info. they actually re wrote me to tell me that I need to call them so I will, I guess they jsut were getting back to me to let me know they got my message so thanks thou much appreciated Im going to call them

 

As j9fd3s state'd in his post there is no need to weld anything the one bolt is not going to matter and about the flywheel, aftermarket flywheels are neutrally balanced so all you need is to get one that is made for a FD and it will work

 

sorry quick question guy can I use my 13 b rebuild video for the basis of the 20b motor just one extra rotor. and does anyone know where to get a rebuild kit for a 20b or a kit to do the porting for a street port

 

the last time i saw somewhere try to sell the rebuilt kit 20b over $1,100
all i wanted is the gasket-set, i was lazy tomake my own until i saw those price

 

Yeah and acosta site wants 4500 for a 20b rebuild I would rather take it apart and learn as I go and just buy what I need you know

 

i think it's alot cheaper is jap
but.. o well

 

Instead of rebuilding the engine, why not just clean out all the carbon inside the engine. Trust me there is a way do do this without opening the engine up. Once you have all the carbon cleaned, you will free up all the stuck seals and regain all of the lost compression. Now this is only for if you are just trying to run the 20b for a while before you get crazy and spend a **** load of money for future high hp figures.

 

And how do you suggest this be done?

 

auto trans oil?

 

Well yeah I mean Ill put some stuff like upgraded stock turbo, new injectors front mount ic etc. you know the simplier stuff for reliablity. so yea how do you do that clean the carbon out. explain please

thanks

 

And necessitate a custom oil pan?


-Ted

 

Well I did leave that wide open. Anyways if your engine is already out then this process is very easy to do. When I got my 20b it had so much carbon buildup that my 1st & last rotors had hardly no compression(once the turbos & manifold were removed, you could see all the carbon inside). After talking to Adam (Rx7 Specialties) he told me they rebuilt the 20b engines because of all the cardon buildup inside. In his past experiances, they tried to install an unopened 20b but, it locked down during startup because of all the carbon buildup. I was like damn! I don't have enough money right now to rebuild my engine. So I started to experiment and I figured out something. With my exhaut ports exposed, I went down to Wal-Mart(it was really late) and bought some fuel system cleaner. Once back, I poured 1/2 cup of the fuel system cleaner down the exhaust port. I then turned the engine over till one of the rotors were facing at the very bottem of the rotor housing. My purpose was to completly submerge the apex & corner seal with the solution hopeing it would break down the carbon. I let it sit for 30 min to 1hr. After that I turned the crank over till the apex seal was showing through the exhaust port. I then grabed a plastic knife and began to wiggle the apex seal. Sure enough it started to move up and down more freely. I repeated the process for all 9 of the apex seals. And you know what, all 9 of my apex seals are free of carbon lock. Lastly with the solution still in the housings. I cut a small piece of that braided steel ****( the thing you use while your scrubing pots & pans) and put it down the housing and began to scrub the rotor faces clean. Once all was clean, I then used gas to rinse the housings out. Now before some of you guys cry BS, I know this works because every time I rotated the crank around, the solution would start to come out of the exhaust port and would not seap back down(and this is when the engine was on its side with the exhaust ports facing up) Therfore, it would appear that my engine has regained much lost compression. When I finaly get it installed I will let you guys know the results of this cheap fix.