yes please do I would be curious to know
thanks

 

Who knows, I may have some results sonner than later. My Fd still has the original engine in it with only 71k miles. At idle, the vacuum is like at 15. I'm seriously thinking about doing this to that engine as well before I pull it to see if my vacuum will increase. Of course I will have to get a compression check before hand to see were my engine is at(probably will use a hand gauge and compare before and after results)). Only problem is, it will be a little harder because the engine will be still in the engine bay.

 

sounds like a good plan. im gonna install the 20b in stock form and then work on building it up from there. i think that is the most logical way to go. the only thing that worries me about you process is the steel wool. id be pretty cautious about involving steel wool as it comes apart really easily, and most likely bits will stay in your engine. i know that its not open heart surgery but i get really worried about introducing *anything* foreign into the engine. anyone else feel this way, or am i being too uptight about this? i wonder if there are any hardcore cleaners that we could pour in there and let sit for a few weeks that would do the trick???

 

there is this stuff from a company called beaver. Its a degreaser that works real real good I put if on my motor when I first got my seven and it took of all the engine grease. I put one spray on then sprayed agian right after and it was gone completely. Ill find the website and post it

 

i wonder if anything bad could come from using really strong cleaners?... like damage to seals or something?

 

Hey guys , the steel wool I was refering to was the "braided steel wool". The same thing used to clean pots & pans. Not the steel wool that you use for wood. The thing I used will not come apart like you'll think. Also, I would only recomend using fuel system cleaner as the cleaner(not a degreaser). The reason being, if you use a differant cleaner there's no telling how it will effect the rubber in the oil control rings & water seals(may break it down). Fuel system cleaner is designed to clean carbon and run throught the combustion process. Not a degreaser! Think about this example, would you guys mix degreaser in with the fuel to clean carbon? I dont think so.

 

how about some other stuff like say... i dont know.. brake cleaner, carb cleaner, magic mystery oil (im told is good), wd40, ummm maybe all of them haha

 

wd40 no way every one knows that attracts dirt more than anything thats for sure and the degreaser IM taling about is good I use it on rubber and struff on my car to clean and it works great I was just saying you could try well I will cuz Iknow how well it words on my engine thats for sure.
but please let us know for sure how this stuff works though

 

but were not only talking about cleaning...were talking about getting those apex seals moving again. we need to free them of carbon but we also need to lubricate them so we can work them back in. i got a rotor for fun a long time ago and i pulled all the apex seals out just to see.... you wouldnt imagine how much carbon was in back of those seals and the spring. basically we need to bring all of that crap to the surface and then remove as much carbon as we can to free them from carbon lock yeah?

 

here is a idea
turn the motor on its side with the exhaust manifold removed
fill the chamber up with water then drop a ultrasonic transducer
into the chamber the ultrasonic waves will remove all deposits
off that face, drain then move on to the next face
have fun

matt

 

is ths true? like the sonic care toothbrush haha . are those actually available ?

 

does any one have anymore info on mva secret like oil pan etc...

 

On the 1st gen list, this has been kicked around, since we have a lot of motors on the far side of 150,000 miles. Two suggestions:

1) Amsoil Power Foam Several have reported rejuvenating carbon locked motors with it.

2) On Felix Miata's site, search for "Magic Potion". (I'm not making that up.) It is one of several cleaners that he lists.

 

what is the site? so no on the ATF? seems that it would lubricate as well as free some carbon. i have been wondering about magic mystery oil too... i wonder if that would have any sort of cleaning effect. oh yeah, one last thing..... how do you get the motor sideways? the rotary engine stands will have the motor sitting in the wrong direction. (can you use a regular adjustable engine stand through the tranny bolt holes?? i havent tried yet)

 

Magic Potion

I'd never, ever put ATF into any of my engines. I'm also starting to doubt MMO. Have you read about Long Duck's experience with MMO in his GSL-SE in the 1st gen section? It's not a very positive one.

I put some MMO in my 20B right after I got it to free up some sticking apex seals. It freed them up, but I'm now worried that it'll blow more smoke than if I hadn't used MMO. Of course this is taking Long Duck's experience into account. Then again, Long Duck's reason(s) for using MMO in the first place are a little suspect, if you ask me.

 

thanks for the link... ill read up on long duck's experience. frankly i dont know the state of this motor i have. once i pulled it i noticed a few bad things....

there is HEAVY yellow and white corrosion on the outside of the middle housing.

also some japanese businessman must have lost the o-ring that seals the oil cap on the pipe... apparantly its been missing for awhile because everything inside the kneck is rusty??????? im not sure how this is possible... im pretty sure that the kneck is plastic!!

also, i just drained the oil and it was BLACK BLACK BLACK and smelled extreemly heavily of fuel! the oil started melting my latex gloves so there must be a good amount of gasoline in the oil.

basically id like to try and tell what condition this engine is in before i mount it in the bay... things look a little suspect at this point so im a little worried, and dont know what to make of the strange things im finding. -heath

 

the oil filler pipe is metal.

my oil was black and full of gas too, look at your air filter i bet its got the same 3" of crap on it that mine did.

 

i dont remember... i chucked the air filter long ago well, i feel better that im not alone... maybe this motor will turn out to be ok.... i really hope so!!

 

I don't know, I'd still play it safe and rebuild it. That's what I decided to do (well, finding only 2 out of 3 apex seals on the rear rotor didn't hurt in making that decision, lol)

 

i just brought back a used 13bt by spraying the apex seals with this stuff called "aerokroil". . . this stuff pretty much rocks. used a pencil to free them up. . . combustion got better so i soaked them all overnight. came back the next day, and whoop-dee-doo. . . this thing pops like a champ. kinda cool.

paul

 

aerokroil eh?? where did you get it? did you notice any black sludge coming out of the exhaust ports? ha, one more reason rotaries are great.... try poking a piston ring!

 

Don't forget how easy it is to remove the heads to get to those pistons Heath!

 

For those wanting to use the 13b rear plate, you will have to do a couple other things that make it almost as big a pain as fabbing a subframe.

These include: enlargeing 2or 3 tension bolt holes

Enlarging the intake runners to match the 20B manifold,

Also the water jackets are smaller I think. Check out this thread about Steve's car.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...5&pagenumber=3

 

Do you also have to use the rear rotor housing from 13b rew?? I've heard you do?? Is enlarging tension bolt hole on the end plate that much of a pain in the ***??

 

Instead of using the 13b rear plate is it possible to just tap the 20b housings to fit the mounts and then fabricate an oil pan?