Well it looks like i'll be pulling my motor apart again. I just got it back together about a week ago. I had id apart for some porting and fresh'n it up. I was out driving arround to break it in ( I have about 150 miles on it) . All was well till I had a couple people honk and and point while going down interstate 35. I didn't think anything ove it because I usually get some attention while driving because FD's are not common up here. Anyways. After the 3rd one i noticed some white smoke in the rearview mirror. So i pulled over and coolent was spraying all over. I didn't even notice my temp gague wasn't working. The problem was the radiator cap broke, the spring loaded part broke off, So the cooling system couldn't build pressure. When i got the car home I fired her back up and now she blowing white smoke for a while, But she runs fine. I shut it off and tried it again, white smoke. I knew wat it was righ away. Stupid coolent seals. I pulled the plugs out and cranked it over. She sprayed water out the #1 & #2 rotors plug holes. I pulled the log from the computer and i guess the engine temp hit 270! not good. I just hope i didn't warp any parts.

wish me luck
Jered

 

Pic of the cap.

Also i found out when i changed the plugs right before i went out i must have hit the coolent temp sender withthe wrench. The wire was hangine by a thread or two.

 

Hopefully the irons are still ok. I rebuilt an overheated engine that got up to 230ºF and wouldn't read any higher because the temp sensor no longer had coolant on it. who knows how hot it actually got? I replaced the rotor housings and a gasket set, and it's running fine these days.

 

man that is one bad day man ..... that really really sucks

 

I'm really sorry to hear that! You should program the AEM EMS to cut the ignition once the water temps go past 230

Hope that most of the parts are savliagable!

 

All the hard parts look fine, but the inner coolent seals are toast. I was using the teflon encapsulated ones . The coating melted and the o-ring is melted to the shape of the groove (square instead of round). There was 2 rings that did separate causing the coolent to leak into the rotor housing. The outer looked fine and the oil seals had no visible sings of damage or wear. I am going to replace all soft parts to be safe. I have a machinists straight edge on order to check the irons. I don't want to get my hopes up, but i'll know more tommorow when i check clearances on the apex and side seals.

Heres some pics of the damaged o-rings

 

Sorry to hear about that.

Should use Evans coolant. Zero pressure and can run higher temps without concern. Zero pressure is one of the best things about Evans. You may have avoided this problem. You can run 230 and not have any power loss or boiling over issues.

 

My coolant seals died right near the spark plugs. The oil O rings are Viton from Atkins, and they survived

 

Jered, are you using the Mazda puller for the e-shaft or something else?

 

Wow, 270F!


-Ted

 

I used the puller that a guy on the forum was making / selling. It worked OK I had to mod it a little to fix a construction error. I sould have all my seals by Fri. and hopefully back together and running this weekend.

I'm really thinking about the evens coolent now, I'm going to do a little searching before hand to check it out.

Also i had a typo in my cal for the coolent temp sensor is was miss scaled. Who knows how hot it actully got. I have a feeling the dual Earls oil coolers help save the Rotating assembly from damage.

 

thats a bummer!

 

Was everything aside the o rings salvagable?
kris

 

Ok rebuild is done, Everything check out ok for hard parts. I replaced all orings / gaskets to be safe. I'll be switching to evens coolent in a couple weeks when it arrives and doe the flush procedure.
Here's a little video if the link works

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...=post&id=21916

 

Glad to hear everything is fine now

George