I daily drive mine in warm months of the year only. Its more than the engine that gets worn on however, as once you build a really high performance FD, the suspension and everything is not going to like pot-holes, stone chips in your nice paint, replacing sticky tires every 10k, dealing with a loud exhaust ect ect. But you are right, the n/a 20b wont bitch or cry at all, day in and day out.

 

i already have the suspension part down an what not Tein coilovers. are you doing the subframes and the whole setup yet. i might send you mine when i head off to the sand box so when i get back it will be done and all i have to do is build the motor. i read about halfway through and that guy that talked about the 2.3 turbo ford and the LS1 got annoying as hell I just wanted the say shut the F$ck up and go to the (other conversion) forum! uhhhhhhh!!! but really nice car man. I understand what your saying about wearing out parts but at least its not some 400-600hp monsterousity im trying to drive around daily

also whats the least i can get away with inside the engine. maybe some RX8 or S5 rotors and just a streetport, 2 piece apex seals and the rest of the seals. or could i just take the turbos off the 20b and thats it(with ECU and throttel bodies and what not of course) but then HP would be around the early 200's. I would really like a pp but i think i'll save that for a track RX7 that i might build later on down the road.

 

I have two complete kits ready for sale. I can let you know what to send me, and get started as soon as you want. I'd say the bare min. would be to make a nice header and throttle body setup on a stone stock engine, I bet you could net 250-255 rwhp out of that setup. Then when your ready tear it down, port it, higher compression ect ect. Dont try the Rx-8 rotors, just more money without any real gain.

 

^ What price you talkin'?

 

i'll prob. relook up this thread in Dec of this year (when i get back) so i can order some stuff from you and i can build it during my leave time.

 

Whats up with this new forum stuff? My posts are all out of wack, oh well. Anyway the full 20B conversion kit is around $1,650.00, the price went up a little due to the fact I have very high standards, and now all motor mounts are fully professionally Tig welded, and fully machined peices. So let me know, as I have two kits at the moment.

 

how much whp do you think a N/A 20b will put out with a pport or a bridge?

 

^^^ RE Amemiya has a pport N/A 20b hitting 380whp..

 

Kiwi-RE recently built a Series 6 RX7 drift car with a N/A 466hp PP 20b with triple 55mm throttle bodies and fuel injection. I'll post the magazine article if anyone is interested.

And sweet car GtoRx7

 

I like your 20B conversion kit. The idea of it in my Rx4 would be nice. You should come over and help me set it up.

 

wow 466whp NA gezzzz i wonder how that thing drives

 

Where are located? My fiancee just bought a Rx-4 and we are building a 13b-re all-motor for it, I freaking love the Rx-4! I may have to build one for me once hers is done!

 

I'm going to be greedy and ask for more videos.

More vids please. Like, tons more. Seriously, I could watch a webcam of your car 24/7, even when you're not driving it.

 

pettits motor is going to make ~550... but p-ports aren't really streetable.

 

do you even need to ask :P post it up

 

Alright I went through the first 14 pages or so and got tired of the bickering... anyhow, I've been planning exactly what you did for a long time... I hate you..lol.. j/k I love you, you took the headaches I woulda got out of alot of it... anyhow I'm in the process of getting a roller for my project and was gonna go n/a mainly cause I love the throttle response of my n/a s4 vs my t2 (I've had 5 rx7's... blown one) but now I'm thinking about going with a small turbo on stock ports instead... cause I'm afraid of the damn cops pulling me over for noise and I like the ease of making decent power (only looking for like 400 or so but with good spool up). So I'm just wondering how long it takes you to make the "kit" cause I probably won't be ready for it till the end of the summer... I was also wondering (can't remember) did you have any steering problems at all? cause I also do local drift events and autocross etc.

 

Haha, thanks man, I have alot more footage from summer, but I will most likely post vids of it this summer with all the changes intact, you'll like it much more. So I guess you'll have to wait and anticipate it!

 

Well, the total weight of the car last summer was 2620lbs, with a perfect 50/50 weight distribution. The steering is also not moved at all, not a millimeter or anything. So it handled like a perfect 13b rx-7 would, just 230lbs lighter. It only takes me two weeks tops to make the kit per order, but I am trying to have all the pieces in stock and ready to go. Thanks for the compliments!

 

Here's the link to the article of the 466hp N/A 20b & a couple of other articles.

>>>>>>> WARNING - 56K NO GO ZONE <<<<<<<

Rotary Articles

 

Yummy thanks

 

^^^^very nice FD how much do you think that cost. 50K usd

 

hahaha you're still posting as msnarx-4!!!! she got you man!!!

 

Damn didnt even notice that, oh well, now I know who that is!!

 

hey Gtorx7 does your mounts keep the 20b forward enough to keep the tranny in the stock location so you can use the stock driveshaft or did your have to get a custom one made. I never saw much within the first 12 pages about the driveshaft so i'm assuming stock.

 

Yeah its so many pages to read, so here is the basic info-

1)The tranny sits in exact location, no mods done
2) the entire subframe is intact, only "notched" in the back for oil pan clearance
3) the steering rack is in the exact location as well
4) my kit lets you drop in the 20b perfectly stock, with not using any FD rear plates or anything, so no rebuild, or hybrid engine is needed.
5) relocates the alternator, to where the a/c used to be, so a/c cannot be used with my kit
6) the stock intake most likely hit the hood, and will need to be modified and cut lower
7) stock twins can be used, but must be specified at the time of ordering
8) must send in steering rack, p.s bracket, subframe, and alternator bracket for modifiying
9) must use a FC/FD waterpump assmbly as the 20B one will hit the hood
10) Any other kit that claims to use the stock subframe and rack location fully, yet keeps the alternator in the stock location and the stock intake mani, I am pretty sure is not true.