My car back together

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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 11:20 AM
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My car back together

Well I finally got it back on the road after the cracked iron incident. Everything seems to be working fine. I had the guys at the shop weld the iron with nickel rod, then I stress relieved it. While I was in there I also added some 10mm studs in the areas that I have dowel pinned to try and keep the flex down. I am also trying out viton inner and outer coolant seals from mcmaster-carr. Total cost from teardown to startup including a apex seal corner piece that I lost and had to replace (props to Dan Atkins for getting it to me super quick!) was around $150, including material for the studs and all the chemicals I used. Not bad, eh? I got about 10 more miles till I can turn the boost up, but I did a 40-140 pull at 9psi and it felt pretty good, so hopefully we are back in business!

Some people asked me for pics, so here they are, starting with the stacked plates with no tension bolts, then the weld, then the back side where you can kinda see the couple studs I made.also note the cheapo ebay clutch that was good enough to put back on, even after a few thousand miles of my abuse. the last couple of engine bay pics show the welded area pretty well.
When I get it broken in a little more I will try to take some videos.















pat
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 07:13 PM
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I love creative minds. Nice repair job! I hope it holds up a long time.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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looks cool. no one can ever sell you short on ingenuity, eh. am defintiely interested in seeing how long those seals last.

enjoy it man.
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 01:14 AM
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i was in it for some of the break-in and start-up FTW
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by diabolical1
looks cool. no one can ever sell you short on ingenuity, eh. am defintiely interested in seeing how long those seals last.

enjoy it man.


I have those same Mcmaster inner seals in my 91 vert with. So far I've put about 14k on the rebuild. The Mcmaster versions don't have any fitment issues likle the RA versions. The seal really good as long as do you minumal pitting in the plates.
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Old Sep 28, 2007 | 01:28 PM
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Ooops didn't type edit my above post. That looks terrible.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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Thanks guys.

tvon, I'm not using the mcmaster teflon encapsulated silicone ones, I am using mcmaster viton ones. the TEC ones tend to leak, and are a pain to install.
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Old May 25, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by patman
Thanks guys.

tvon, I'm not using the mcmaster teflon encapsulated silicone ones, I am using mcmaster viton ones. the TEC ones tend to leak, and are a pain to install.


Are you using this Mcmaster part number here? 9464K537


I just broke down one of the engines I rebuilt last year to find that the Mcmaster Tephlon coolant seals I originaly had been using were all pinched and not re-reusable. I've never experianced any leaking problems with them. I just don't like the fact that they apparently aren't re-uable like I thought. I may give the above part number a go.
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Old May 26, 2008 | 01:14 PM
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I'm not sure if that is the exact part number or not, but its something like that. For the inners that is, I'm using straight viton o-ring cord for the outers.
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Old May 27, 2008 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by patman
I'm not sure if that is the exact part number or not, but its something like that. For the inners that is, I'm using straight viton o-ring cord for the outers.


It may be. I got that part number elsewhere in the forum. It showed to be the exact same dimensions as the TEC version. Did you pay like 5.50 for a pack of two?
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Old May 27, 2008 | 07:46 PM
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hi there PATMAN how did you get your swaybar to clear the oil pan?? doing a 20B FC also but my machanic put on a FD swaybar with endliks to hold but snaped the first test run, any help would be appreciated THANKS
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