I'm glad you shared that off booost experience because one guy in particular, didn't believe me when I told the forum my own NA 20b broke traction rolling on the throttle in 1 gear during a 5 mph roll with stock tires (which is something my stock fd never did).

 

Ya man, NO KIDDING!

I think some folks don't quite fully comprehend that the 50% increase in moving from 2 rotors to 3 rotors actually feels like the 50% increase LOL.

Around town driving is just perfect isn't it? You only need a tiny bit of RPM and gas to get moving. Not quite as strong as a V8 application, but this thing sure does get you moving with little effort. N/A 3 rotor should have been a factory option

In my opinion, I don't think there is such thing as too big of a turbo for a 20b. The low-end on motor alone is just THERE!

 

AHH ok, I remember our phone conversations now!

How is that I/C working out? That thing was just great, mounts so close the radiator and never felt like it blocked airflow much

Clean cars, especially the FB.

 

So this week I took the car in for an alignment; nearly an hour drive to an NTB Tire Shop with an in-ground rack. Needless to say, these guys had no idea what was going on with this car lol. "What size cam you runnin? Let me guess, stage 2 clutch and fuel pump"? I'm not sure what is up with the term "stage" being used around here but its amusing. Anyhow, the car lined up great and feels solid on the road. Took it up above 110mph for the first time, its not as solid as stock configuration, but its manageable. The only thing I notice is a very slight tendency for the steering to track/drift slightly from transition point of accel to decel, I think this is the bump steer people speak of...its as if the ride height changes/loading of the spring affect the steering very slightly. I've read about using linear springs vs progressive, and I have progressive. I can see why guys like to keep the motor in stock position. Interestingly, the caster angle factory specification I believe is around 5*, however the lowest the caster could be set was 8*. The toe was set as close to 0* as possible. Maybe it would help to run -1 to -2* toe in keeping the steering as steady as possible.


Along this alignment journey, the car decided not to restart again when warm at the gas station. Crank crank crank and only fuel smoke from the tail pipe. Played with the fuel pump turning it off/on and modulating WOT fuel-cut and finally fired up. At this point, it may be that the previous cavitation and hot-start issues are separate. Anyhow, I replaced the starter with the Banzai 2kw starter and HOLY CRAP! I swear, no exaggerating, this thing is totally ridiculous compared to the tired stock starter. If the car was in gear, I could probably drive it around the block on the starter. I'd have to say it must be at very least a 100rpm increase in cranking speed. Car fires off instantly when cold, going to test it when heatsoaked this weekend.

Rain this week has put off the tune until monday, but this gave me a chance to mount the Maxxis R-Compounds and check over all connections etc.

The bug list is dwindling, so far all that I can think of to fix is slight oil leak at rear of pan, and replace crush washers on oil pedestal

My buddy and I are going to *****-out and make the 4hr each-way trip to the tune in the 20b!

Hopefully we make it back with good news soon

 

Cant wait man. I love your build!!!

 

Car was tuned this weekend at Addicted Performance

These guys are hands-down the best team I've ever met. Well organized, fast moving, meticulous, and cool group to be around.

Had to call it a night as I had work early the next day and they are headed to the Texas 2k.

This engine is absolutely insane. Laid down over 330rwhp at 4psi!

Called it a night at 550rwhp / 405rq @ 10psi! I left the car with them, and when they return from Texas we'll swap in a harder wastegate spring and go for 15-19psi. Expecting an easy 650rwhp!

 

Uffff congrats bro 550 @ 10psi lol. That should be illegal jaja

 

Remind us again what turbo you're running please.

 

Small frame Borg Warner s480, t4 1.15

Seems to spool just like the 67mm on the old motor. Full boost by nearly 4500rpm

 

Congrats its come a long way!

 

Congrats on getting the car near finished. I am happy the ECU worked out as advertised. I hear you are still having fuel pressure issues. I would NOT turn up the boost if I were you. Call it a day, fix it and go back.

 

This right here.

 

Thanks, yes as I said above we called it a day, going to swap springs and have addicted extend the exhaust from midpipe back as this is the only thing left I can think of that may be heating the tank over time. Pressure began bouncing after a few hrs on dyno/heatsoaking.

 

That's alot of power for 10psi. Nice!

 

I honestly don't think it's heat. Gotta be something else going on

 

How are the fuel lines laying in the engine bay? Directly on the engine? How about creating some stand offs for the fuel lines and lining them with some heat protection and see if that helps?

I was thinking about doing this for mine (2 rotor).

 

Actually, the front primary rail line and rear primary rail line touch the irons, but the rails themselves on the dyno didn't seem hot at all. In fact we had a bag of ice on the UIM, everything was cool. However, the the tank was most definitely cavitating. And sure enough, a few hrs with the car off and fuel pressure was back up 20psi

Voltage at pump confirmed 13.5

 

 

are you still running the insulator spacer under the primary rail ?

 

Stuped idea but we are sure tank has a vent so it does not suck vacuum after a while? If suction line on fuel pump doesnt feel hot and there is no vacuum in tank and the pickups are not clogged I would be out of ideas.

 

Hey guys,

Bumpstart, the spacer is 2 brass washers stacked on each other, so heat could transfer through the block and into the rail. I haven't felt the primary rail! But the secondary rail felt cool to the touch when the issue occured end of the dyno session.

Rub20B, The filter socks are removed and there are no lines/restriction into the pumps themselves. They are directly submerged into gasoline to rule out any pre-pump restriction/vaccuum. The tank is OEM fuel tank and uses OEM vent line, to atmosphere out of the engine bay, no charcoal. Opening up the fuel cap yields no air/suction/or pressure

 

Monsterbox no constructive comment on my behalf with this post, but even though our cars look very alike... I still drool over your car... It is just beautiful!

I hope you get this fuel issue sorted out before you run out of patience. If I have time I'm getting my 20B setup retuned tomorrow and I would like to compare to your setup just to know what works best.

Andrew

 

I left my charcoal canister on plus those two little check valves on top of the fuel pump housing. My charcoal canister vents to atmosphere. I still get pressure release when I open my gas tank like it did while stock. Who knows, maybe the tank pressure has an effect on fuel temps like the pressure in the coolant system changes the boiling point?? Just guessing!

 

I too will be keeping the charcoal oem setup on mine same way i did on my 13b setup.

 

Yes this has crossed my mind my as well.

However, I'm beginning to think it may be simply that the fuel lines are touching the irons in certain areas. Althought it doesn't appear that the nylon braided hoses would absorb the heat, the irons get pretty damn hot!

Going to confirm tank temperature and fuel rail remp. See the difference between the two. If fuel rail temps are hotter than tank then we know its coming from the bay. Insulating the lines near the irons will be step one. If that fails, then I'll install a resistor/PWM controller and slow the pump / reduce the flow.

THanks