Thanks Chris,

I'm going to try and upgrade to 25 rows with thermostat before the warm weather hits.

Wow, that's unbeliable as far as traction. Didn't realize you could blow off 275's in 4th at 12psi, that's unimaginable power for this car. I'm definitely going to be all over the road lol

Thinking about Toyo R888 or Nitto NT01 on the rear at 275, maybe this would help

 

It's funny how you bring that up. Since I got my car running fairly decent, I've put around 3k on mine in a little over two weeks. All highway of course. That's around 700 miles round trip to Dallas one weekend and 2300 round trip to sevenstock 2 weeks afterwards. Most 20b swaps dont hit that kind of mileage for year or too.

 

What Chris (from Banzai) is stating regarding the fact that I could own the car for 7 years but the car doesn't see real mileage so basically my example is not good is a very constructive point. It is very true what he says because most FD owners I know don't drive their car much.

In my case I have put on average 6000 miles every year because I only have about 3 months time to drive it. During those miles include 5 full track days (hot). 2 full days on the drag strip. Continuous driving (9 hours) 4 times. The rest is regular street driving. Maybe is not much, but for me it was enough to know what needed to be changed and what could wait. The biggest and most effective change for me was a tune. Because depending on your tune your call may run high EGTs which in turn means you are driving with an engine bay that is putting more streets on all of its components. Someone correct me if I am wrong but in my case it had to do with my timing. I believe it was too retarded.

Also what is important about what Chris said regarding the coolers them selves it is true. I actually cleaned them up and you will be surprised how much small Rock and dirt you will get out of there. It is fragile work because the fins can brake but it is possible with the right tools. By the way my diff bushings were so finished that if I shifted too hard I would have wheel hop which is the killer of all drivetrain. Hopefully yours are at least replaced... But I was careful and nothing broke.

Everyone's experience is different and I am just a simple guy who works on his car. Guys like at Banzai do this for a living so for sure their opinion is right on the money (I would listen to them). I just shared my experience just because it was a positive one and I think it is possible if you are careful with your car.

Merry Christmas guys!

Andrew

 

I agree tuning is critical, drive-ability tuning is the first thing we do once a car is running. A few hours on the dyno, driving only off boost, works out nearly all the bugs. It is also a controlled environment to see if there are going to be any leaks or electrical issues.

This past year my 20B spent more time at the paint shop then at my own. I would say less than 500 miles total, and that was really just going back and forth to the painter.

 

Hey guys, I found a major vaccuum leak from a primary injector.

The spacer inserts, the are pressed into the block, two of them pressed in pretty far with about 1-2mm distance from the bottom of the injector bore. The third rear primary spacer for some reason easily pressed all the way to the bottom, as the bore is ever so slightly larger.

This causes a slight variation in height between the injectors and the rear is slightly leaking vaccuum/boost as confirmed with carb spray.

Does anyone have any tips on removing these sleeves? I want to restart with fresh cj motorsport sleeves that have o rings.

I have tried using various dental picks and flat heads and cannot for the life of me remove these sleeves. Final thought is to thread a tap into the sleeves and pull on the tap, but I don't want to be stuck with a broken tap.

Any ideas would be appreciated!

Thanks

 

I have chiseled them out (from the inside of the spacer, don't mess up the bore on the iron itself)

I like your idea of a tap, just plug the whole so nothing falls in. Then put a bolt in and a slide hammer. They should pop right out. If not, then just chisel slowly until you are through on one side so it will bend inwards. Just do not let anything fall in.

 

We are nuts thinking about rx7's on christmas

Any idea what to plug with? Jam a Rubber vacc cap in there?

When you say chisel, you mean just start at top edge of the aluminum and start chiseling/cutting into it, working in the same spot until you've cut a line all the way down the spacer on each side essentially cutting it in half? This would then comprimise the strength of the spacer and it should collapse inwards and pull out?

Great idea!

I'm going to try a large tap/bolt/slide hammer initially as llong as i can safely plug the hole from metal shaving :0

Thanks and merry christmas

 

why do you have the sleeves in there anyways? what injectors are you using? I thought only the fd's holes were bigger because of the side feed injectors and are the only ones that require a spacer/sleeve when running top feed injectors?

 

And of course we are talking cars on christmas we are all crazy car guys lol... worse than any drug on the planet haha

 

Nice set up!!!

 

Haha, yes cars on Christmas. But yes, I chiseled it exactly how you described in your post, I only plugged it with a rag, but I was careful and used a vacuum any time a price of metal chipped off.

I just bought an FFE primary rail for my builds and it came with spacers too. I haven't put them in, but I thought they were needed. Actually, thinking more about it, why are spacers ever needed? Can't a bigger injector oring be used anyway?

 

I chose to go with top feed primaries, a lot of guys will swap pintle caps and make them look like the oem secondary top feeds, with larger o-ring. However mine are a newer design pintle cap that can't be swapped, they have a strange 3 hole diffuser/atomizer built in, so I'm forced to use a spacer.

The spacers I bought suck, or I just don't know how to use them. They press into the injector bores and get tight as they are flared.

Problem is that on the rear rotor primary bore, the spacer went all the way to the bottom and was loose, so we had to glue it in place. The bore on the block was just ever so slightly larger on the rear rotor, go figure.

Anyhow, now the issue is that two spacers are slightly higher then the last. So the last injector o-ring isn't going in far enough into the spacer, as the injector is not deep enough for that deeper spacer, causing vacc leak.

Solution is to remove these press in spacers and replace with longer o-ringed cj motorsport spacers. These should take up the entire bore.

I know you probably already know all this I just want to provide details for anyone else reading on 20bs

 

You Don't need the sleeves if you can swap your pintle caps. The oem secondary top feed pintle caps are what you need along with the o rings. However, some injectors like mine cannot be swapped. My secondary bosche 1680 have swappable caps, but my primaries are a*different 3 hole diffuser design can't be messed with it appears.

Btw, why would you have needed to remove your spacers?

 

Ok i see. I went out and took a look at what i have. I bought brand new id 1000s and id 2000s. I have not bought the rails from them yet but it appears i need the spacers for both pri and secondary.
Monsterbox do you not have the diffusers? Im looking at my block that has all the diffusers and the standard spacer from rx7store.net will work.

 

The reason I took mine out was because it was before I new about stock diffusers (a long long time ago). I had installed the spacers without removing the diffusers, I then realized that the diffusers need to come out first otherwise the injectors won't sit far enough down for the KG rails to fit.

So I had to destroy the spacers that I just installed but this have me the opportunity to get the CJ o-ring version which is way better. FFE now makes them as well. Just make sure you lube them so they don't get damaged when pressing them in.

 

The diffusers must be removed so that spacer will sit far enough in place. You don't need diffusers with current technolgy top feeds, especially your ID injectors. The atomization is already nice enough to not need the factory plastic diffuser, which looks to me like they could even be a hazard and break under heat falling into the engine

 

Have you tried those snap ring pliers? The ones you squeeze and they push out?

I personally used a flathead.

The only other option I could think of is possibly reverse drill bit by hand or tap it by hand and pull it out (obviously you want to use something slightly larger than the piece so you don't hurt the irons).

 

I use a M14 x 1.5 bolt, it screws in easily cutting its own threads, then just pull the inserts out.

 

I like this idea, going to try it. Notice metal shavings? Did you have to plug the hole?

 

Snap ring pliers might work on the first two which have some space from the bottom of the bore, ill look into it, thanks

 

I successfully removed the sleeves last night from the primary injector bores and replaced with CJ Motorsport sleeves.

Let me say, OMG major PITA. These little things refused to budge with every known pick to mankind, even with tap slide hammer and large m14 bolt, no movement.

Ended up having to cut each one in multiple places with a chisel and pull out the pieces. Then adapt a vaccuum hose to a shop vaccuum and insert into the holes to vaccuum up the metal flakes.

I strongly recommened to anyone installing top feeds to use CJ motorsport spacers. These are beauties. The push right into place and are nice and tall so that the injector easily seals as it drops into the sleeve. They also look easily removable.

The issue with the rx7store sleeve is that they may end up at slightly different heights from the bottom of the bore as they are pressed into place. The rail holds injectors rigidly to the same height, so the lower o rings may not seal equally to the sleeves if one is mistakenly pressed in too far

 

Yea i have had to chisel out a couple of those just like what you just did. I did have the intake off so that made the vacume part easier.
I will just buy the cj sleeves so i dont get stuck into something so pity after the car is back together.
All in all how you liking the new motor and adaptronic?

Im getting worn out spending money on this project. I have no motivation and knowing i still have another 10k to dump into it to finish is not helping.
Starting to think just get rid of it and pick up a terminator cobra and build a 1000hp monster some day.

 

Nike's throught process..... "Just do it" Dont give up bro.

Then again, if your trying to reach a 1000hp goal on a 20b, I see your point. It always cost more to make a smaller displacement engine to make the hp of the big boys.

 

It's funny, i like the terminators more and more as time goes on. However, they don't hold a candle to a 20b fd. I especially don't like how many clones are now out there. With all the work you've done on your chassis and moving the tranny, you could probably part out your 20b and jump on the 4 rotor group buy from Defined without spending too much more than you already have.

 

Messege me on facebook, I'd like to talk with you directly about some things relating to your question.

However, I can say, although the car is untuned, and I still have a few things to work out (undertray etc) its worth EVERY penny to hear the sound of this motor.

Do not get unmotivated. Its worth the time and effort so far, and I haven't even felt boost yet. I can't explain how exotic and "right" it sounds in person. The sound is just unbelievable. Youtube videos of 1bad20b, rob damn, etc are nice but they still don't come close to the sound in person. Even if you never made 1000hp, just putting around town with the sound is a full on experience in-and-of-itself.

It may as well have been a V8 swap considering the torque and aggressiveness. The thing rev's so fast its RIDICULOUS. I have trouble not hitting 4k rpm and spinning the tires leaving a light.



Trust me. I know the PITA your feeling about this swap. It may have seemed swift and uneventful on this write-up, but in reality there were hundreds of frustating hours, phone calls, f*cked up parts. So many unmotivating situations, such as having ordered a manifold that put the turbo 30 feet out of the hood Then finding a saw and correct piping and fabricator willing to weld it correctly with 30x test fitting.

This swap fought me tooth-and-nail all the way to the end. Go ahead and expect that everything you have assumed will work/fit WONT Mostly because of lack of experience and lack of information on my part, but if I could do it you CAN DO IT! Your not as far away as you think. Just keep trucking along one step at a time.

Budget wise:

I tried to have all the $ accounted for up front. Still ended up way off mark. I tried to order every damn part before the build and ended up with a room full of parts that I must have wasted hours looking through during the build.

Just go slow, steady, and don't stop! Focus on the priority pieces of the puzzle first.

Oh, and most importantly F*CK cobras My buddy has one with around 750rwhp and I can't wait to kick that things ***. Everyone has one down here in "bama.