Speedworks

I noticed many 20B owners/builders are selling their Microtech ECU unit. As they fail to add why or indicate what tehy will be running instead, I was curious why...

I'm still contemplating what ECU to run on my engine s a second reason.

So what's up with that? Is the Microtech Unit not enough or are there better alternatives for an equal price?

Probably depeds on what your ggoal is so as an additional question, what ECU would you recommend for a stock 20B engine with single (GT4088r) just looking for 500-600hp and trying to keep it together for a couple of years...

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Every ECU comes down to tuning, if it is not set up correctly the car will run poorly. I have been running the Microtech LT16 for years at well over 600rwhp and I am happy with it. I have absolutely no drivability issues since I do all my tuning in matrix mode.

Installation is another major problem area for aftermarket ECU's. I can't tell you all the horrible installations I have seen with heavy use of speaker wire, duct tape, exposed wires, etc.

The biggest drawback to the Microtech is the lack of ability to save and share maps. This is an issue for individuals that do not now how to tune properly and want to load someone else's map.

Speedworks

I do understand a thing or 2 about Ecu's, I was just ondering why the Microtech units are being sold by the bush atm.

What are the main specs an ECU should have to work for a 20B?


- twin spark control?
- Multiple injector control?
- firing order?
- others?

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Basically it goes like this...

1) Owner starts 20b build, happy times
2) Builds budget and weighs options, oh dear this is gonna cost a lot
3) Ends up picking Microtech ECU because its cheap and comes with coils (I saved ~$1,000 AND it comes with free coils, bonus!). Many tuners recommend Microtech because its easy to tune even in the "elusive" Matrix mode (which fyi, any tuner not tuning in Matrix mode for a street car shouldn't touching the car to begin with)
4) Car is complete and runs, hurray! (this is a huge accomplishment in itself)
5) Uh oh, ECU can't do this, ECU can't do that, car sometimes does this, sometimes does that, drivability is subpar and the ECU can't do anything other then make the engine run.
6) Budget recovers
7) Ditch's Microtech for a not designed in the 90's proper ECU.
8) Owner is now truly happy with his 20b setup (assuming it was built and tuned properly)

* The views expressed in this post are those of the author and do not necessarily represent the views of, and should not be attributed to, the general public or the rx7club.com.

thewird

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Not one Microtech that has come into my shop, that had been previously tuned by any other "rotary" shop, was ever tuned in Matrix mode.

Every single customer complains that the car goes WOT okay, but drives like crap when trying to cruise, which is typical of Normal mode tuning.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Unfortunately that's the reality and the owners suffer because of it. If shops can take a shortcut to save time, they will.

thewird

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

that's rather sad to hear, while i may start in "normal mode" to get the basic main fuel maps roughly where they need to be the "Matrix" maps are where all the resolution is. normal mode is fine for WOT but sucks for drivability, it just shows how lazy some tuners can be. it takes literally less than 30 minutes to setup and tune the normal mode maps so if a car is tuned for that then the owner is getting ripped off.

there's nothing wrong with microtech ECUs but they are rather "old school" that still work, and work well. i hate and love them at the same time. i almost think they like being 10 years behind the curve.. maybe in 2020 they will even have flex fuel capability!

fixed

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

^Thank you, I was about to correct that also.

The cars come in running like crap, but leave my shop running great,..... simply put I refuse to cut corners.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Well there's only a handful of true rotary shops that properly take care of your car. Just because they know what a rotary engine is or have a rotary powered car, doesn't make them a rotary shop lol.

thewird

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

oh, and i have never seen a microtech with a fatal issue in the ECU. even on cars that have seen plenty of daily driven miles(including mine which i take on plenty of 1,000 mile road trips).

Speedworks

Is there any particular version of the Microtech I should be after for a 20B?

jmm8904

iTrader: (19)

You need an LT12 or LT16. I just had an LT16c installed in my FD and I was able to tune in normal mode with WOT map and cruise map in like an you and it runs the same as when I had a power FC. I am going to if fine tune things this weekend. The problem I see is the lack of inputs and outputs but most ECUs at this price point have that problem.

Speedworks

What inputs and aoutputs are you refereing to then?

A decent ECU, should have Wideband Lambda input and EGT as a minimum in my opinion.

Speedworks

Is a Megasquirt any option? As they seem to have closed loop, autotune on the fly etc.


Just can't seem to find if it can handle more than 4 injectors and ignition.

jmm8904

iTrader: (19)

The wideband input is a $500 option and there is no EGT input as far as I know. I just ordered a PCS dash with optional boost controller module and speed sensor rig so I can meet my original goal of doing boost by gear. I will be doing my datalogging through the dash and will be able to log all critical engine parameters through that.

Speedworks

Nice, but in the end, when you add all costs up, wouldn't you be in the ballpark of a Halltech with everything included?

hwnd

iTrader: (4)

tada!! I realize a lot of home-brew shops will speak up for a microtec but honestly, they're bottom dollar ecu units. they've always been "budget" ecus and I gotta be honest, thats not what I wanted on my $5k 20B ..a bottom feeder ecu.

:::queue up the microtec fan boys!:::

joking aside, I really do have more insight into the microtech than 99.9999% of the guys on the forum. I've reverse engineered a few of them (firmware on the micro controller) and I can honestly speak from my own, first hand knowledge & experience - these ecu's are junky made with 1990's controllers. the firmware is poorly written (if you naysayers wanna have a go, I'll gladly compare my disassembled work with yours).

..sorry, got a little side tracked there..

if it were me, I'd buy an AEM PNP ecu, read the instruction manual and re-work the harness so that I had the extra coil(s) and injector(s) triggers and call it a day.


just do yourself a favor and stay away from microtec - its overpriced junk.
its missing sooo many features and just not a powerful enough ecu.

::queue up the 2nd wave of microtec fan boys::

thewird

iTrader: (8)

What would be the advantages of going that route? Why would you want to keep the factory harness only to cut everything and splice it? Just wondering.

thewird

Speedworks

Thx hwnd, you've been a help throughout the years with no nonsense info :-)


I do need to take into account that I'm in Europe and some CU brands are not that common over here and tuners are less or non educated. That's why I tend towars Halltech and similar (Motec) as they are commonly used over here (and UK for that matter) and I can find a tuner more easily.

hwnd

iTrader: (4)

The point in the factory harness was just my route in a plug&play setup.
The harness doesn't have to be "only to cut everything out". One removes the binding (tape, etc) and adds the additional coil(s) & injector(s) triggers and re-wrap.

I've done this with new harnesses, never tried with an old harness. I just really love the look of the factory harness and the pnp stuff. Besides that, the ecu was worth that "extra" effort.

hwnd

iTrader: (4)

Thanks.. Cosworth (being you're in EUR) is an option to check out too..
I've seen a few Pi/Pectel T2 ecu's go up for sale (Pi/Pectel in on a whole other playing field).

In fact, Neel @ apexspeedtech.com could help source one for you as well as support you and your ecu (whatever you pick). That guy knows his stuff to no end - he really does.

Speedworks

Pectel could be an option and i don't doubt it's quality given that Cosworth seems to be using.
I've been a Cosworth (Ford) fan since my childhood :-)

On the other hand the SQ6 which woul probably be a suitable ECU for a 20B is at 4000 USD quite steap priced..

hwnd

iTrader: (4)

If you go the SQ6/SQ6M routine, you can have my old 3rotor and 4rotor maps for testing..

I will not send descpro or caltool but if you get the ecu, you'll get the software and I'll gladly share my old maps with you.

hwnd

iTrader: (4)

you know.. on a side note, i'm laughing at Pectel & stupid Microtec mentioned in the same thread. I wouldn't even trade the cardboard box my SQ6's came in for a fullblown microtec.

Speedworks

I understand, but let's face it... a Pectel SQ6 would run you several 1thousands of dollars.

Picking one up second hand is really looking for a needle in a haystack.

Cosworth may be in the UK and relatively easy to get to but on the other hand, they have never tuned a Rotary to my knowledge so how sensible would that be.