Rage Ahead, you've been warned...

I'm at my wits end with this goddamn oil problem on my 20B-REW. Two oil leaks, oil pan and front turbo oil return midway joint. These are the original parts, not aftermarket.

Oil Pan has a drop of oil on EVERY BOLT HEAD. Both surfaces were clean and dry as necessary, used RTV without a gasket per the FSM, looped around every bolt hole, pan installed within 30 minutes and torqued to spec...and it still leaks through each bolt hole.

Oil leaks at front turbo oil return midway joint. So I cleaned it and put a new gasket on it...still leaks. clean it and RTV it (with proper curing time), still leaks. Clean plus RTV plus another new gasket and the ****** still leaks. I've fixed this thing 4 times in 5 days, under the car with INCHES of working space, often with only a flashlight and it still leaks!

What is making these leaks keep coming back 5 seconds after being fixed???

 

20B oil pan brace kit 20B Oil Pan Brace

 

The gasket is not needed, remove clean. Use some good rtv. honda bond lock tight. none of the cheap stuff at Auto parts store. dirt bike shops have some good rtv.. Your problem will be fixed..

OEM oil pan gaskets are garbage,

Hope that helps

 

Read the directions on the silicone container. How long did you let the silicone cure before adding oil? After reading Howard Colemans's fd oil pan thread he recently posted, it appears not waiting for the silicone to fully cure is causing most rotary oil leak problems. The silicone I just used said full strength is reached in 7 days. Previously I only waited 24hrs (which is the drying period) and have always had leaks. Apparently that isn't nearly long enough as the silicone inside the oil pan takes much longer to cure because of the lack of air circulation. You should be able to run a small fan and duck work down the filler neck while also leaving the drain plug out to speed things up.

I recently waited the seven days and have zero leaks so far. Now I do have a new thick base plate aluminum oil pan I just on.

 

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