If I can get a JDM 20B for $4,500.00, why people say it will cost 30k be for it runs?
04-06-13, 10:31 PM
#26
thewird
04-06-13, 10:43 PM
#27
^ LOL you sound like me. Hell over half of the original parts I bought I sold because I realized that I didn't need them. I had a Pettit Radiator, Tb attachment, Rx7 Specialties subframe, Volk Racing wheels. Now the only thing I'm trying to get right is my exhaust and the engine back running again because of a damn ignition coil wiring issue. Working 65hrs a week and doing a home addition hasn't allowed me much time to work on my 7 for the past year and a half. 
04-24-13, 08:04 PM
#28
A couple things to point out here:
1) The OP has an FC. That is HUGELY easier to swap a 20B into than an FD.
2) I got my 20B FC up and running for <$7k, and many of the critical parts have actually come down in price since then. Search my name in this section and there is a thread somewhere where I itemized the costs. That does of course require doing 100% of the work yourself, but hey, don't be a sissy!
3) IF you go NA, and you can fab, then all you need to buy are: A TII lightweight flywheel ($200), Any 3 rotor capable ECU (even leading only ignition is OK for NA) (~$1k), a radiator ($200), and some plumbing stuff, plus fabrication materials. Everything else can either be adapted from 13b parts, made from scratch, or is off-the shelf and inexpensive. One thing that needs modified for this is the front anti-roll bar, but once again, my solution can be found on the forum, or you can make a custom bar if you have access to machine tools. IMO, a rotary engine without a turbo is like a girlfriend without lady-bits, but this is still an inexpensive start.
1) The OP has an FC. That is HUGELY easier to swap a 20B into than an FD.
2) I got my 20B FC up and running for <$7k, and many of the critical parts have actually come down in price since then. Search my name in this section and there is a thread somewhere where I itemized the costs. That does of course require doing 100% of the work yourself, but hey, don't be a sissy!
3) IF you go NA, and you can fab, then all you need to buy are: A TII lightweight flywheel ($200), Any 3 rotor capable ECU (even leading only ignition is OK for NA) (~$1k), a radiator ($200), and some plumbing stuff, plus fabrication materials. Everything else can either be adapted from 13b parts, made from scratch, or is off-the shelf and inexpensive. One thing that needs modified for this is the front anti-roll bar, but once again, my solution can be found on the forum, or you can make a custom bar if you have access to machine tools. IMO, a rotary engine without a turbo is like a girlfriend without lady-bits, but this is still an inexpensive start.
05-11-13, 04:15 PM
#29
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Why paid someone $30k to swap a 20b on an fc when you can buy an fd with over 800rwhp with ladderbar 8.8 rearend (upgrade gear) for $30k? Yeah motor is studded with new internals running a gt4708
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