Roughly how much would a n/a 20b engine set up be? A complete swap into my FC. I know it's quite expensive but I am willing to save for it.

 

Cost varies on your skill level and the things your capable of doing yourself. I've got about 20k into mine and mine is a 100% DYI special. My cost was spread over the last 9 years. That cost is everything including body kit, wheels, paint job, engine rebuild, seats, stereo system, all my own fabrication, etc. Otherwise contact Logan at Defined Autoworks.

 

I got it cheap at 20k installed w/ gt4202

 

Ive spend roughly 15k on mine but then I broke the engine and decided that having a spare to drop in when its rebuild time was probably a good idea. That cost me another 7k. (getting the first rebuilded will cost 4k...In Denmark you can only drive your FD 8 months of the year because of the weather)

 

While I dislike the phrase of "If you have to ask, you can't afford it", it does apply here to an extent though not entirely. Reading the 20B FAQ does help put it in perspective, though there are a lot of details like cooling system(s) packaging that aren't mentioned due to the lack of a standard for 20B RX-7s. This is where I come in.

My Project OldTree is sitting around $10k including the car's purchase price of $1400. It is a DIY project, intended to show everyone where the starting point of a 20B FC Conversion actually is. I'm still using the JC Cosmo twin turbos and absolutely EVERYTHING has been acquired at a discount. This is why I've got the smallest 20B pricetag possible and you simply won't beat it. Here's the build thread: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...tormas-888195/

Just so you understand, a 20B Conversion is not for the faint of heart. While it has been a monumental learning experience for me over the past 3 years, it has been especially difficult to solve certain problems such as packaging all of the cooling systems in the nose acceptably and getting them to function properly (still in progress). Then you have the simple but really aggravating problems like oil pan leaks (exactly like FDs, but requires pulling the engine to correct) and coolant leaks. Some coolant leaks that I've encountered are a real bitch to pin down as they only pop up under pressure. Others are even more aggravating as they only show up when the engine is hot (overflow bottle hose comes to mind). Just yesterday, I finally re-sealed my oil pan after it had been leaking for 2 years. Now it has to sit for a whole week before reintroducing it to 10w-30. I really wish I could have bought a Banzai Racing oil pan brace, but cash simply didn't allow for it right now.

Giving Defined Autoworks a call would be a wise move. Although their 20B headers are quite pricey at nearly $2000, they are a time tested design and are made very well. Logan is a good guy to deal with, having hooked me up on several things I needed and couldn't readily locate otherwise. As soon as my engine is back in the car, I'll be taking it to him for the last bits of fabrication and finally dyno tuning.

All in all, it really comes down to your dedication. Am I happy with my results? Very! Knowing what I know, would I go through it again? That's another story...

 

its very cool you kept the twins, what ECU are you running?

 

Haltech Platinum Sport 2000. The way I set up the system was like the FD (its devices operate the same), but using the ECU's RPM switches for all but the wastegate. It's still a work in progress and subject to change.

The real magic is in the Turbo Control System. Turbo Control 1/2, CRV & CCV Solenoids all have a relay on them for driver-selected Sequential/Non-Sequential operation. And what really tops everything is Solenoid #7 on the BOV, whose purpose is to dump ALL boost if it creeps 2psi over the wastegate setting. Not a band-aid for bad tuning, but an "Apollo 13" measure for unforeseeable boost creep. Just like the Sequential system, it has a manual override switch for stretching fuel on the epic journeys to events like Deals Gap Rotary Rally. A hypermiling 20B-REW RX-7...who said life wasn't perverse

 

my 20B FC is kind of ancient history at this point, project old tree is much newer, better documented, etc etc. however mine ended up being very stock, the whole car only had about 8 aftermarket parts on it, ECU, exhaust, suspension, and radiator were the biggies.

stock twins non sequential, which if i did the car again, i would just put a header on, enjoy and enjoy the noise and simplicity.

anyways, on my car the cost of the engine, was about 50% of the total cost of the swap, so its by far the biggest cost item, #2 is probably the ECU, but then there are a number of things like radiators, and engine mounts and things that get you to the 5 figure mark.

and that is just putting a used JDM engine in the car, which is a gamble. the 20B newest 20B is still from 1996….