Help with 20B HP Range + Reliable builder

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Old Nov 11, 2003 | 07:06 PM
  #26  
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From: Been all around this world and still call Texas home (Ft Worth)
Originally posted by Turbo 3
The only thing Auto Ill is missing now is a chromed roll cage for pimp action
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Old Nov 18, 2003 | 10:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally posted by Auto Illusions
Thanks for all the advice. I already contacted city performance and got a quote of 90K american. Wow!

<snip>
Wow, indeed. I noticed that you are in Pennsylvania. Dave, at KDRotary (in Nazareth), does excellent work. You'd have to talk to him personally about your desired hp output levels, though.

If you want to go a little farther from home, Peter Farrell Supercars has plenty of 20B experience and can easily get the power levels you want. Based on tests with my car, Peter has stated that a 20B modified like his drag car could produce 1000 hp.
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Old Nov 19, 2003 | 10:37 AM
  #28  
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dude i dont know if marcos or farell ....i`ve heard a few things about farrel and jeez have you seen the thread about marcos .....a bit risky huh??.....its youre money
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Old Dec 1, 2003 | 09:21 PM
  #29  
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The aeromotive controller is about $250. I talked with Aeromotive a little further about the fuel system setup and found out how it works. It is possible the motor could require fuel quicker than the pump can speed up and that is the reason for running the #13110 fuel regulator. It raises fuel pressure as it sees boost! Also it is recommended that if you intend on running the car hard, you use the bypass and give the pump full voltage to be safe!

As i read earlier, yes the fuel pump returns fuel to tank and which keeps the load off the fuel pump but to make a high HP aplication you must have enough fuel supply on tap at all times. Whatever you are not using cruising around returns to the tank. The problem with this is with a big pump you are returning about 2.75 gal per minute (a full tank in less than 5 minutes) This may heat up the fuel during street driving! When fuel heats up since it is constantly running through the fuel rails and engine bay and back into the tank. Fuel begins to atomize once it reaches higher temps which can causes many problems. Drag race situations dont have these problems because the car is not running long enough for the fuel to heat up! This is why the fuel controller cuts fuel pump voltage in normal driving situations so that it returns less fuel. It is RPM activated and should be set to turn on full at a little over cruise RPM speeds!

And yes the roll cage will be installed beginning of January but will not be chrome because it will be a full weld in. If it could be chromed, I would have it done that way!

Bling, Bling but not just looks! Be very very carefull!

I ended up with a GT80R duall bearing turbo from Innovative Turbo Systems! Got burns stainless in yesterday and will start piping this week! 4" back to dual 3" mufflers with open waste gate!
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Old Dec 2, 2003 | 05:41 PM
  #30  
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Interesting. Thanks for the information about the controller, sounds useful afterall. That price is retail or what you're selling them for?

You can always do fake spray paint chrome

Dual mufflers on a FD? Be prepared for the noise, open wastegates are LOUD and don't really gain you that much on an open exhaust anyhow but ease of install.
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Old Dec 2, 2003 | 07:08 PM
  #31  
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I am not sure on the open waste gate. I am going to set it up to be run either open or not and use a block off plate when i run it with an open waste gate. As long as it does not effect the tuning to run it open or plumbed! That is what i paid for the fuel controller, there is some web sites offering it for a touch more than that. There is really not much mark up in performance parts! If you want one, i can get it to you for maybe $25 over to cover shipping!

I am doing the dual mufflers because the power i am trying to achieve requires 4" exhaust and i am not sure of a 4" muffler. I built a custom fuel tank that is centered in the car so i can run a 3" muffler on either side evenly! I also think it will look cool!
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Old Dec 3, 2003 | 08:20 PM
  #32  
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Well, it will make boost a little faster with it open but for how much faster will be only known by you as each motor/turbo combo is slightly different, especially with the dual BB turbo you have.

I was looking into the Innovative GT70 dual BB but thought that might be a bit too big and was again looking toward the GT60. The GT80 might be suspect for how streetable it is, if at all. However, for big numbers, it should bring you to the 900-1K FWHP range nicely within its efficiency range. Ended up going with a T-76, cheaper and replacement parts are local if necessary.

I'm interested but no thanks as I'm not spending any more money on my car at least until next summer/fall as I'm still paying off what was done on my 20B conversion thus far. Having a pro do a chunk of it is not cheap... if fuel temperature becomes an issue (looking at installing a coolant temp gauge for use as temp fuel for just that purpose), than I'll purchase it.

I've got a 3" turbo-back to a single 3.5" muffler and 4" tip (ricey I know) but that will be enough for approx. 700 FWHP. If you're hunting for close to 1K then 4" would most likely be more appropriate but again... you have a show car as well. Definitely be interesting to see what that looks like from the rear.
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 01:25 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by Turbo 3

I'm interested but no thanks as I'm not spending any more money on my car at least until next summer/fall as I'm still paying off what was done on my 20B conversion thus far. Having a pro do a chunk of it is not cheap... if fuel temperature becomes an issue (looking at installing a coolant temp gauge for use as temp fuel for just that purpose), than I'll purchase it.
There is a sender built into the primary fuel rail on the 20B. Does anyone know if thats for temp or pressure?
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 02:06 PM
  #34  
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I think it's for temp.
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 02:29 PM
  #35  
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its temp, thats how they get the cars not to flood
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Old Dec 5, 2003 | 05:04 PM
  #36  
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It is temp, that's where I'll be tapping into for my gauge
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Old Dec 12, 2003 | 03:49 PM
  #37  
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Originally posted by Auto Illusions
I ended up with a GT80R duall bearing turbo from Innovative Turbo Systems! Got burns stainless in yesterday and will start piping this week! 4" back to dual 3" mufflers with open waste gate!
dual 3" mufflers... is that inline or using a Y-pipe?? Haven't seen many FDs with 2 mufflers, and decreasing from 4" to 3" inline seems silly, that's why I ask. A single 4" exhaust from downpipe to tail pipe is going to flow better than decreasing the exhaust radius and using a Y pipe to run two 3" mufflers.
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Old Dec 12, 2003 | 08:29 PM
  #38  
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From: Moon Twp. Pennsylvania
2-3" pipes have more area then a single 4". I am splitting it right before the rear diff and running 2-3" out both sides or the car. I built a fuel tank that is centered in the car allowing for this. The reverse collector i call it was profesionally built so there is virtually no restriction at all. I dont think it will flow any less this way but it is easier to get mufflers and looks evenly balanced and will be a little bit quiter!
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Old Dec 12, 2003 | 08:35 PM
  #39  
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Picture of my 4" into 2-3" collector for running dual mufflers!
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Old Dec 12, 2003 | 08:40 PM
  #40  
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another shot of the adapter looking into the 4" opening!
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 06:11 PM
  #41  
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Were did you get that y-pipe from?
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Old Dec 16, 2003 | 06:34 PM
  #42  
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I had it made from burns stainless. $260 dollars. Ouch! But it is as good as you can get!!!!!
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Old Dec 17, 2003 | 07:10 PM
  #43  
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$260 !!!! ****... I hope it adds another 30 rwhp for that cost! Very nice part though!

Couldn't you have gotten a 4" muffler made for that price? (not by Burns, but any machine shop can do it for you).
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Old Dec 17, 2003 | 08:15 PM
  #44  
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Originally posted by Sponge Bob Square Pants
$260 !!!! ****... I hope it adds another 30 rwhp for that cost! Very nice part though!

Couldn't you have gotten a 4" muffler made for that price? (not by Burns, but any machine shop can do it for you).
Hehehe, I had a leading race shop make my exhaust out of Burns SS tubing stock, and it cost about $1,600, not including the mufflers or manifold.

Newsflash 1: Good parts cost a lot of money.

Newsflash 2: Good labor costs a lot of money.

Newsflash 3: A good 20B conversion is NOT cheap.

Originally posted by Auto Illusions
I am splitting it right before the rear diff and running 2-3" out both sides or the car. I built a fuel tank that is centered in the car allowing for this.
My car has close to the same thing, but it is 3" to dual 3" outlets.
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Old Dec 18, 2003 | 11:32 AM
  #45  
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evil, you seem to have a lot of knowledge and well looked up to in this forum. If you dont mind, i would like to talk with you on the phone some time. PM me with a good time and a phone # if you wouldn't mind the conversation and questions!

Thanks, Rich
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Old Jul 29, 2011 | 10:06 PM
  #46  
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda...item4cf900569e

bringing up an old thread to let everyone know my first motor i had built (never used) is for sale.

It has been oiled, bagged and thrown in my closed at work so it is in perfect shape still.
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 05:36 PM
  #47  
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i will help you

Originally Posted by Auto Illusions
I am getting near ready to send out my 20B which is getting fitted into 93 cym with only 19K miles on it. I have officially joined the "I F..ked up a perfectly good car club" This project is for our shop to be used as a demo car and we pretty much are taking it to the limit. Since our shop does not do engine building i am looking for a respectable place to do the engine build. We will be doing all the fitting and fabricating but will also be in need of a good tuner for the Microtech ltx-12. As a shop building a wild ride like this, we have gotten a little help on parts and will be hoping for some mag. coverage and need silly HP figures to be impressive. The car is mainly a show car but must be driven on the street and i am trying to screw as close to 900 HP out of it as i can. I would like to see over 750RWHP. Any suggestions as to if this would be a realistic goal and who would you suggest i have do the engine work and tunning? I am having an unbelievably hard time finding someone interested in taking on the engine build project.
Also i am trying to decide on a turbo setup to achieve my goals. I am considering twins but would rather stay single (ball bearing a must)

So far we have the following parts for the car to start with - all opinions would be welcome!

aeromotive 11104 monster fuel pump
aeromotive 16302 fuel pump controller
-12 feed to pump, -10 fuel line to front, -8 return line aeromotive 13110 fuel pressure regulator
Microtech LTX-12 with dataloging and wide band O2 option
Microtech Wide band O2 with lcd display for tuning
2 x msd dis4 digital ignition boxes
6 x msd hvc-2 coils
msd 31239 plug wires
Apexi super avc type r boost controller
mazda speed motor mounts
petit sub frame and diff mounts
RP chromoly axles
Kazz diff
Petit 8 lb fly wheel
Brembo 14" front and 12.9" rear brake kit
JIC Magic FLTA2 coil overs
Petit big front sway bar
Petit sub frame
Petit chromoly trailing links
Petit rear toe bars
GFG 19" 3-piece wheels
Re sleek light kit
Re AD-9 Hood
Re Gt 3 carbon wing
Feed front bumper
Feed carbon side skirts
Custom made alum. fuel tank (allows dual mufflers)
All analog carbon Autometer gauges (replaces all stock)
Full diamond audio sound system (2-10" subs / 3 amps)
99 tail lights conversion
RP stainless door sills
Momo Millenium steering wheel & shift **** & boot
Mazda speed short shifter
Feel free to PM me and i can help you with the build
I have a street rx7 20b 831hp to wheels more to come.
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