I have had many ask for photos of my conversion kit that is offered. I have been side tracked, but finally I have taken the photos of the kit as a whole. Realize that some items are fully made, and Four parts (two pictured) are sent in by the customer, modified, and sent back.

These parts are not pictured, but included in the cost of the kit-
-20B oil pan, sent in/ modified
-FD steering rack, sent in/ modified
- P/S and A/C bracket, sent in/modified (pictured)
- Alternator tensioner bracket, sent in/ modified (pictured)

Parts that are made in house, and pictured-

-Two custom steel plate motor mounts
-Two poly bushing mounts
- (6) Machined spacers for the motor mounts
-Machined water pump outlet
- Machined Idler tensioner, spacer
- Ball bearing Idler pulley
- Full hardware, grade 8 bolts, stainless lock nuts

Cost varies with options selected by purchaser, as follows-

Full conversion, MIG welded steel motor mounts- $1,570.00
Full conversion, TIG welded steel motor mounts- $1,670.00
Optional color anodizing of aluminum parts- + $150.00

This conversion kit is different from a subframe kit, as it retains your full factory subframe. It will keep the steering rack in its perfect, original place. The transmission remains unmoved. And lastly, the 20B can be installed without a Fd rear plate, or other tricks. Two downsides to this kit- Stock intake will have to be modified lower! You will loose the A/C compressor, this maybe will change in the future, as more development is done.

 

Picture of the prototype on my old setup. Note the new alternator location. And note idler tensioner, providing great grip on the waterpump pulley.

 

Woa!! nice setup! Thats a good price too, considering what you get and the time and labor involved. I had a question about the waterpump outlet. Is it the cosmo flange? or FD? Im using an FD waterpump and housing and I need an outlet like this! thanks!

 

How much would the intake manifold need to be lowered to make it work with the stock hood?

I love the idea of keeping the stock subframe! I can't wait to get started on my swap!

 

I forgot to mention, it is for the FD waterpump. I can sell these for $80.00 each.

 

How much just for the machined water pump outlet?

 

$80.00

 

Should be about 2.5- 3.0" inches lower. But Big_rizzlah should be able to let us know for sure on his car, soon.

 

I really wish you'd keep the A/C and ditch the Power Steeing on the bracket instead.

If I had a source for an intake at a fair price, I'd be all over this.

 

I still would like to make it keep the a/c as a option. It might be possible sometime in the future. I am in the process of making a cheap (cheap as far as 20B stuff goes) aluminum intake, that is simple, low profile, will work on n/a and turbo, and light in weight. Its a good 2-4 months before that will be complete for sale.

 

Cool. The lead time on the intake gives me enough time to save up some cash.

 

If you plan on making an intake I would buy the rest of the kit

 

What do you guys consider a good price target for a custom 20B intake?

 

it all depends how nice it looks. 500 and under..

 

Oh damn, there is no way I can do that!

 

does the intake consist of runners in some type of plentum??? ITB's all the linkage for the TB's....just curious...If i were to give a estimated price on a fully tig welded alum intake i would say ballpark is about 1200 dollars because it takes alot of time and skill....


btw GTO love the car

 

Thanks man! The intake would be full aluminum, welded runners, a type of plenum, and one large throttle body, or some other multi throttle possibly. Injector bungs, and maybe nitrous bungs too, with vaccum sources. It will be a over the top style like the factory intake, to help make it easy for new buyers to make it work with their setup.
$1200+ was more along what I was shooting for as well.

 

I would say around 1500~ give or take is what its worth to me.
But I do not build anything and I have not a clue what kind of work is involed fabbing a intake.

 

hey if is really nice some of us. will pay top money.

 

I think that is a fair price as well. $1k to $2k depending on options.

The way I see it, you should look into 2 options:

1. steel/alum runners into a single, big throttle body for those on a budget or using forced induction.

2. like your last intake - steel/alum runners, 3 ITB, FI ready + air box/filter setup

If I can afford it, I'd be all over #2 since I'm looking to try non-ported to dial everything in and make sure I like and then move up to a street port. I don't care about finish since I'd probably ceramic coating the runners and airbox. I like less bling

 

Question on engine height:

If the transmission location is unchanged, I assume that means the "crankshaft" height is unchanged (and thus the center of gravity of the block itself is unchanged), so where is the "extra" height coming from? Or are 20B's typically taller than 13B's and thus are usually mounted lower?

 

The engines crank will sit about 1" higher than stock, due to clearing the steering rack. But that isnt the real problem. The main problem is the fact the engine is longer, and so is the intake manifold. Yet the hood slopes down 3-4" the further forward you go. So the intake, alternator, and waterpump housing will hit the hood, unless you move the rack down 3" (very bad, bump steer ect ect) or relocate everything, and cut the intake down. Hope that makes sense.

 

i always dreamed of making a 20b fd. if you come out with this kit, for sure I will be doing a 20b fd conversion.

 

The intake kit, or the conversion kit? The conversion kit is available right now.

 

i think 1200 is a good ballpark price for a custom intake if ti is nice. I couldnt afford one at the moment, but Ive worked as a fabricator, and I know what goes into one. I would be most interested in it if it not only lowered the stock height, btu also had larger, less restrictive runners and a more even flow distribution between rotors. Also i'd say that if you could save a couple hours onj build time, it would be worth it to skip all the extra bungs and ****....