Looking nice.

 

that paint is very slick, did they block down the orange peel and buff? very cool car

 

Not sure if I should steal Chris' thunder here, hehe. The car was stripped down to the metal, completely new paint job starting from scratch.

Re: the LIM, it's 'Chris Custom Modified' with lots of hours spent grinding away. He actually broke one of my die grinders in the process, it was difficult and time consuming.

John, pretty sure he's sticking with those seats.

 

lookin supra nice. That's supra, it's on a whole different level from super.
-Tenacious D and the Pick of Destiny

 

you wouldn`t happen to have any of those pre-modified manifolds lying around would ya ??
just kidding ......looks bitching though

 

Thanks everyone. It's nice to
The stock late model FD manifolds didn't have it either so that's no big deal .

I spent countless hours removing as much dead weight as I could from it. I then had all the resulting holes welded up and painstakingly sanded and polished the manifold to remove every trace of the work.
Here are a few incomplete shots of it below. I wasn't happy with how the finish was between the runners and on the flange, so I decided to send it off to be professional polished. I should have it back in a few weeks.




I actually have a brand spanking new spare lower intake manifold that I will probably sell in a few months.

Yes. They did lots of work between coats. The paint job took over 200 hrs of labor. I am pretty happy with how it came out though. Unlike some of the other things I have purchased for this project, I can easily see what I paid for

Here is a shot of the coils that I forgot to insert in my previous post:

 

Love that idea. We need to get a group buy on the aluminum oil filler necks. I hate that plastic guy.

 

[QUOTE=CMonakar]

[QUOTE=CMonakar]

Dude ....damn you , that looks so sweet , each and every day i look at these post , my car keeps looking uglier

 

Remarkable Job! Exceptional Engineering!
Can't wait to see the completed rotary work of art!

 

wow...been a while since i have seen you around. where is your old car?

 

:LOL: Good one!

A fourth rotor

The binding is leather. It's amazing how such a small amount of it makes the interior smell totally different. The seats will be done eventually. First I want to get the engine squared away. The main reason I did the carpet now is because I was having such a difficult time finding a stock black carpet.

This is an inside joke. A few years ago I told Gordon I was going to do a 3 rotor swap in about 6 months for a total cost of under 20 grand. That didn't exactly happen and he loves reminding me of how mis-guided I was :p

Thanks for the nice words Gordon. Glad you like it.

 

Excellent work Chris. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread.

 

Thanks. I ordered all the materials to make the wiring harness. The oil coolers, t-stat, and all the lines should arrive this weekend. All the polished parts are on in the mail. My goal is to have it running in one for or another in 6 weeks!

 

what is your oil cooler setup?

 

I believe dual mocal 25 row coolers. Oftentimes when he is filling me in on the latest (mis)adventures of his project I start to daydream....

 

-2 Earl's 25 row coolers (13" wide) with -10AN inlets. The Mocal coolers are more expensive. I don't see how they are any better. I have to admit Mocal sounds cooler than Earl's though
-Mocal T-stat -10AN
-Mocal remote filter mount. -10AN fittings (that was difficult to find!)
-Earl's premium hose.
My goal for the weekend is to run fuel line from the two fuel pumps to the firewall, remove the stock fuel filter, mount the new aftermarket filters, mount the oil cooler cores, and filter mount.

 

Don't know how long that has been there..... but it speaks the truth!

Any more pics for us?

 

Any more pics for us?[/QUOTE]

I didn't get much done this weekend, but I did mount the oil coolers. It took a lot of time to get them to fit with the fittings on the top without compromising on ground clearance, wheel well clearance, depth (important for duct work), butchering the 99 spec rebar or contorting the oil lines. On Saturday I was about to give up and mount the fittings on the bottom. I decided to take a break and when I came back to it on Sunday I found a combination of angle, depth and height that worked . . .just barely.



The headlight surrounds comes within a few mm of the inside oil fittings, but do not make contact. The headlight in the picture below is in the middle of the pop up stroke.


One of the things I didn't realize about the Earls coolers when I purchased them is that they have female ports with thread-in male adaptors. This adds a few mm of height to the fittings. The supplier said they switched to female style outlets because the male outlets have less surface area where they join to the cores and tend to break off from line tension on Earls and mocal cores. Today I ordered new 90 deg male fittings with 0-ring seals that can be connected directly to the female ports in the cores. This will provide a bit more clearance, reduce the weight, and eliminate 4 potential leak points.


I cut a little bit of material out of the rebar under the combo light openings so inside fittings did not have to be in contact with airbag sensors. Otherwise I did not modify it. The white part of the rebar is pretty soft. I hope it has a relatively high melting point, because the lines will be in direct contact with it in places.

More to come . . .

 

The new lower profile oil cooler fittings finally arrived today. They really improved the clearance between the fittings and headlights.


Here is a shot of the lines with the rebar off. The lines obviously look pretty long, but with the bar in place there are no sharp bends and there isn't much slack. The oil cooler lines go into the engine compartment at the end of the driver side frame rail. I am planning on mounting the T-stat where the stock battery was located. I don't have any room between the frame rails because the radiator and intercooler take up all the space.

 

I also did some work on the fuel system. I removed the stock fuel lines and installed the two feed lines, the return, and the fuel filters.



I removed the stock nylon line separators from the stock brackets, removed the portion that was for the feed and return lines and installed them on the new brackets to make sure the brake line doesn't rub against the remaining hard line.

To avoid confusion I used a different style line for the feed(s) and return. The feed lines have a bronze stripe and the return is solid. The fuel filters are mounted on the firewall a few inches below where the stock hard line ends were. Unfortunately my camera ran out of batteries before I could snap a photo of them.

 

What thermostat you going to use? Also what fuel filter are you running?

 

1 Earl's inline filter for each feed line.


Mocal 180 with -10AN male connections.

 

Looks really nice, Chris. Glad to see you went with the stainless braided hose.

Question - are the two stock lines you left in place (alongside the new fuel lines) for the ABS system?

 

hey chris what brand of hose and fittings are the new ones? the clearance looks MUCH better

 

The hose ends are made by Earl's. I try to only buy their stuff. The aeroquip stuff is also nice, but I find the Earl's hose ends are easier to assemble.

All my polished parts arrived. Here is a teaser shot. I will post more later.


It's actually starting to look like a car rather than a pile of parts. My goal is to get it started before the end of June.