Ok well I got bored and had to test fit.
Fits perfect and will work perfect. Now i just need to find a shift arm with the right size cup off another trans or transfer case.

 

Wheels are split time to widen. They will be 11 iches wide when done. Then they are off to the polishers

 

Now that you were able to move your engine back 4 inches, what did you finally decide for the tranny setup? also what about the clutch setup? Did you set your self up to have have a setup that in the future allows you to bring down the tranny without having to take out the engine?

Andrew

 

Im going to use the stock transmission for now as this is just going to be a street car. We will see how the transmission does. I decided to run a act single disc clutch setup like I did last time.
I dont have a answer on your question about the transmission being able to be removed without removing the engine. I have yet to make my subframe and actually set the position in stone.
I will keep this updated.

 

You going to have it all done and ready to go for Leavenworth Meet on May 17th, 2014? Would be a great break in trip! LOL

 

Unfortunately it will not be ready for that. My goal is by Aug 1st. I plan on driving it to my wedding on Aug 23rd. I am building someone else's Fd right now as well as my own so I def have my hands full right now. Id love to go to LW as well as SS or DGRR next summer.

 

well finally did about 9k worth of shopping and still have lots more to buy. but for now i can start fabricating. wheels are being widened 1.25" for a total of 10.75 inches in the rear.

 

I was toying with doing this on mine. Have you butt jointed and welded inside and out? I would need to add depth width outwards on the lip though so I would end up with some kind of witness where the material changes from old to new even if I got a good flush joint. Was also a bit nervous doing it on an ally rim. I cannot find any other wheels I like at the mo though so might be an option if I can get it done for a decent cost?

 

I think you would be fine. I called weldcraftwheels and a few other places prior. It is butt welded but it has full penetration and welded on both sides. A v groove would be better. Took about 250amps for thid material. 6061 t6 1/4 inch thick.

 

I Might look into some more then.. You doing this fab work yourself I take it? How did you keep the pieces all concentric with one another and avoid any run-out? That must be quite a fiddle? If ally tig weld pulls anything like the stainless that just adds to the fun!

 

I had a buddy that has done this before do it. He has all the toolings to make possible and he is a better tig welder than I am. 0 runout.


They are now finished.

 

I wouldn't mind having one around just in case I want to push my motor back further.

 

Your welcome to the file I made. Just let me know what format and email and I will send it to ya.

 

Finally got some time in on the car. Got the motor mounts fabricated and fabricated the engine subframe. Now i need to finish up welding and then mount the rack which will be tricky as i have to mount it perfectly so i get no bumpsteer issues.

 

I couldn't confirm by the picture but make sure everything that you need to get acces to around the engine is clear once you finish up it's positioning... I was trying to see your oil filter and I couldn't tel if you did a mock up with an actual oil filter on the car so that you can tell if it is accessible to put it or remove it off the car

Great job with the subframe and mounts! Keep it up!

 

Yea I made sure everything clears and things like the oil pan and the oil pedestal will be able to be removed without pulling the engine.

 

You sir have brass nuts to chop up those wheels! Badass.

 

Widened wheels rock. I went with 11.5" wide wheels all around

 

Its time for an update in here! Hows this thing coming?

 

He was talking about getting married end of the month.

 

Yes he is correct I got married last weekend after a year of planning.
I have been busy with work and my business I started (RotaryAutomotive).
I finally got some time to mess with the car after getting customers projects done and out of the way although I did aquire our local mazda dealerships account for rotary rebuilds so im sure my time is limited for now. I have already bought everything for it besides aem ems and wastegate and the motor goes to the machine shop in the winter.
Here are some pics. I lowered the steering rack about 2.5 inches so I could lower my motor and move it back about 4.5 inches. Its a very tedious precess moving the rack because you have you make sure you end up with no bump steer during compression rebound as well as left and right movement during suspension compression and rebound. Took some time and patients and I got it perfect.
The motor is now in and the turbo is mocked up. Once the car is 100% together I take it apart and paint the whole car.

 

Got started on cleaning out the junk in the chassis harness. This time you wont see any wiring on the car

 

Well im no pro at the tig but i can get the job done. Not bad for only a few hours under my belt on a tig. Made a new filler neck assembly.

 

That filler neck looks excellent!

 

Going back to your wheels that you widened. What did they end up looking like on the inside? Did you flat and polish the join back out?