20b subframe needed
#1
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20b subframe needed
guys i need a subframe for a 20b that i'm about to put into my fd, and i looked around a bit and t-von says there is this guy that makes them and sells them for 1500 and it doesn't give you any steering problems or anything. i just wanted to know if there are any other people or companies that make them and sell them for a cheaper price. i know that's a pretty good price but i just wanted to see if there are ones that are even cheaper than that. i live in socal so i'm sure there are a lot of places nearby i could go to, but if you guys know anywhere else please tell me where i can get a subframe for my 20b to go into my fd. i need one obviously that will give me the most minimal steering problems. thanks in advance for everything guys... -erik
#2
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Just curious, and not trying to be confrontational at all, but what do you hope to accomplish with a "non stock" subframe? it seems to me that more than a few people have found ways to sucessfully use the stock subframe, which of course leaves the steering fully intact.
I'm just starting to sort out mounting the 20b, and haven't spent tons of time looking at my car and the motor, (so I'm inexpereinced at best) but I can't see the advantages of a $1000+ subframe when ther stocker has worked for people. Is it a weight distribution thing?
Sorry that this isn't directly related to your post.
-Chris
I'm just starting to sort out mounting the 20b, and haven't spent tons of time looking at my car and the motor, (so I'm inexpereinced at best) but I can't see the advantages of a $1000+ subframe when ther stocker has worked for people. Is it a weight distribution thing?
Sorry that this isn't directly related to your post.
-Chris
#3
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Originally Posted by RX-7 From Heaven
guys i need a subframe for a 20b that i'm about to put into my fd, and i looked around a bit and t-von says there is this guy that makes them and sells them for 1500 and it doesn't give you any steering problems or anything. i just wanted to know if there are any other people or companies that make them and sell them for a cheaper price. -erik
GtoRx7 is the one getting ready to sell his installation kit. Keep in mind that the $1,500 he is prematurely quoting isn't just for the modified "Stock" subframe, it's for all the other little pieces included that make it cost $1,500. This is an excellent deal compared to buying a different sub-frame and having to worry about bumpsteer issues which cost more to fix. Bumpsteer is something you don't have to worry about if you go through GtoRx7. Just keep that in mind.
#4
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It looks like in two weeks I will have at least two kits ready to sell. T-von is right, the stock subframe is used in full stock form, only is "notched" in the back and reinforced with welding simply to use the stock 20B oil pan. Which takes away alot of fabrication needed otherwise. The subframe mod can be done on your own, or sent to me to modify and sent back. Here is a breakdown of the costs, and Are 98% final.
Engine mounts cost with poly bushings, machined spacers.$ 720.00
(core needed)Power steering rack mod $ 190.00
(core needed)Power steering bracket mod $ 300.00
(core needed)sub-frame mod $ 150.00
machined water outlet $ 80.00
machined tensioner bracket $100.00
ball bearing tensioner $30.00
Total conversion price is - 1,570.00
Engine mounts cost with poly bushings, machined spacers.$ 720.00
(core needed)Power steering rack mod $ 190.00
(core needed)Power steering bracket mod $ 300.00
(core needed)sub-frame mod $ 150.00
machined water outlet $ 80.00
machined tensioner bracket $100.00
ball bearing tensioner $30.00
Total conversion price is - 1,570.00
#5
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once again t-von i have you to thank for any confusion that i have about my 20b project. for sure tell me everything that you do with your 20b project and post your stuff up on this forum to show people that it isn't as hard as everybody in the world puts it to change from a 13b to a 20b. i'm sure everyone would be happy to see history in the making...hahah. thanks t-von. -erik
#6
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i did my conversion with out touching the subframe , but i did all the fabrication my self so it did not cost a whole lot.i had to modify the rack , oil pan , lim shortened , water pump neck and fabricate motor mount to fit in the stock position. i like the way it turned out with out having to touch the subframe.
but then if you have to pay to get these parts fabricated it might be cheaper to go with the kit.
but then if you have to pay to get these parts fabricated it might be cheaper to go with the kit.
#7
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i know it's worth paying for the kit, but is the fabrication really THAT hard? i know nothing about what needs to be done but i'm a good learner and a hell of a handyman so tell me what you guys think.
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#8
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Fabrication is hard if you don't have the skills or equipment to do it yourself. I would almost hazard a guess that if you have to ask, then the answer is yes. It's just one of those things that people who do it, or have connections to it, are very valuable in projects such as this.
GtoRx7's setup is exactly what I was refering to in my original post as in a way to make modifications to use the stock subframe. His costs also look very reasonable, especially considering the fact that this is such a custom "1 off" type of thing.
-Chris
GtoRx7's setup is exactly what I was refering to in my original post as in a way to make modifications to use the stock subframe. His costs also look very reasonable, especially considering the fact that this is such a custom "1 off" type of thing.
-Chris
#9
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Originally Posted by carx7
Fabrication is hard if you don't have the skills or equipment to do it yourself.
-Chris
-Chris
Exactly. Everytime I think I can do something, I realize that I don't have the equipment necessary to do it. LOL
The real funny thing is I had wood shop class all through school and only metal shop class once. At the time I never thought I would ever use my metal shop knowledge. Now that I'm into cars and modifications, I wish I would have stuck with it. It's funny how things happen.
Last edited by t-von; 12-25-05 at 10:05 PM.
#10
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Originally Posted by t-von
The real funny thing is I had wood shop class all through school and only metal shop class once. At the time I never thought I would ever use my metal shop knowledge. Now that I'm into cars and modifications, I wish I would have stuck with it. It's funny how things happen.
I guess there are a few ways to look at it. You can pay someone who knows what they are doing to do it right the first time. Or you can do it yourself and have the satisfaction of knowing you did it. Even having learned from someone else's trials and tribulations, the second route will very frequently take longer, and possibly end up costing more than the first. There are always little "gotchas" around the next corner with custom fab
GtRx7, I get the impression that you've had several conversations with Carlos during your build process? He refered me to your thread while we were talking about my project
-Chris
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I have an FD that we dropped a 3rotor right in that was made with 13b housings.
It handles perfectly and is awesome. I have 3 other 20bs and 3rd gens that I need to put together with the standard 20b housings. Based on my first experience I really do not want to mess with the steering geometry. I would appreciate any info on what is available for sale to do this. Thanks!
It handles perfectly and is awesome. I have 3 other 20bs and 3rd gens that I need to put together with the standard 20b housings. Based on my first experience I really do not want to mess with the steering geometry. I would appreciate any info on what is available for sale to do this. Thanks!
#17
U kno Carlitos ?
he da man
i kno 'm 4 > 20 yers
bak from hes pro imsa days
he do shi*t 4 EVERY 1 here nd always bahind da scene
he got more rotores credential dan any 1
got every body covered 3 X over
he a rotores racing legend
2 do 20b into fd
U dont need no special subframe
do it Carlitos way
like GTO rx7 does
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