20b subframe and bolt-on bumpsteer correction kit
#1
20b subframe and bolt-on bumpsteer correction kit
What's up Guys
I am starting this tread to see what kind of interest I get for a 20b subframe and bumpsteer correction kit for FD's that I will be selling shortly. The price will be $1700 w/ good core and $1900 w/o. The subframe will use FD 13b motor mounts and the bumpsteer kit is a bolt-on. I should have pics by weeks end.
I am starting this tread to see what kind of interest I get for a 20b subframe and bumpsteer correction kit for FD's that I will be selling shortly. The price will be $1700 w/ good core and $1900 w/o. The subframe will use FD 13b motor mounts and the bumpsteer kit is a bolt-on. I should have pics by weeks end.
#3
Originally posted by bermuda20b
Sounds good.
I am curious though as I use Pettits subframe/spindle assembly and don't have an issue with the bumpsteer...
Sounds good.
I am curious though as I use Pettits subframe/spindle assembly and don't have an issue with the bumpsteer...
#7
Originally posted by Dragon
will you sell just the bump steer kit? Also how far do you drop your rack?
will you sell just the bump steer kit? Also how far do you drop your rack?
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#8
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
yep, I'm well on my way to being done, but I haven't played around with the bump steer issue yet. I want' to see how bad it actually is. E-mail me a few pic's of the bump steer stuff and I'll see if that will put things the way I'm setting my car up in check, lol, or make them worse..
#12
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Hit a bump and your car will steer somplace you don't want it to.. feels squirly.. I adjusted the toe in a little today and she feels much better, but I'd still like to eliminate it completely..
#13
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just use spacers between your spindle arms and tie rods.just like lane and brian used on the ls1 conversion.all pettit does is take your old spindles.cut the arms off and reweld longer ones on,and then rapes you on price.as where hinson just used spacers,which eliminates it too,and only cost at the most 20-30 bucks to do it yourself.
or if you move the rack forward just move it 4 3/4 inch forward.as the rack is 2 3/8 behind the spindle and tie rod connection it will now be 2 3/8 in front of it.
or if you move the rack forward just move it 4 3/4 inch forward.as the rack is 2 3/8 behind the spindle and tie rod connection it will now be 2 3/8 in front of it.
#14
Senior Member
Also I have found out through experience that you REALLY need linear springs on the front when you move the rack. Just to see I put some new progressive springs on the front and man did it get squirly. No loss of control per say but I did not like the way it felt. With the Pettit subframe and linear springs up front. I have no bumpsteer. Even @ 150 mph!
#15
Old [Sch|F]ool
The only problem with moving it forward is you lose Ackerman. Makes for a more plowy driving experience. (If you've ever driven a Fox-body Mustang you know how it feels to have steering with insufficient Ackerman!) But it's better that than bumpsteer.
Last edited by peejay; 10-09-03 at 06:46 PM.
#18
Okay guys, these are the pics of the subframe I know they are not in any order but forum has been acting funky tonight and they did not post correctly. Sorry it took so long. Thanx for posting them for me Phil
John
John
Last edited by 94RHDFD; 10-09-03 at 10:23 PM.
#21
Anyone interest'd in purchasing the kit you can contact me through PM or email me @ rotaryxs@yahoo.com
#25
DRIVE THE ROTARY SPORTS
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ok i have a few questions: here is what i have so far just so you know... FD, cosmo front clip. ok some questions.... how is your kit different from pettits? you say it uses 13b mounting points? what do you mean? would i have to change my rear plate on my 20b? basically i want to know the differences between yours and pettits, cause i will buy one of them. thanks heath