t-von

iTrader: (8)

It's a pain but it's 100% worth it. It really doesn't take that long to pour in 8oz on every fill-up. There's proof all over the forum that suggest that premix is the absolute best way to lubricate the combustion chamber. I know it works because I have a rotor that's been sitting on my bench for the past 2yrs that still have the oil film on it. My other damaged non premixed rotors are bone dry and full of black carbon. The OMP only lubes the rotor housing but, does NOTHING for the rotor faces and side plates. The oil film that's created all over the combustion chamber (especially the rotors) prevents carbon deposits from adhering to it. When carbon can't adhere, you have no build-up.

Ottoman

I hear ya man

assuming it's easy to find premix in ur area..

and how are u supposed to know how much gas is left in the tank to keep the ratio correct?

I was thinking of the RA kit to convert the OMP to use an external resevoir rather than motor oil

is that not the same thing?

(I shelled out extra for my Haltech PS just so that I could retain OMP control)

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

Why would you need to know how much is left exactly in tank? You add oil together with fuel and u always know exact number of fuel added (unless you are not getting it at gas station and paying for it like most of us). Then its just easy calculation how much oil to add.

I carry premix in 0,5L bottles and i allways get around 60L of fuel and just pour whole premix bottle in there....

calculon

iTrader: (29)

Did you not have to modify the oil pan?

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Let me fill you in on a little something. The OMP doesn't SPRAY any oil into the combustion chamber. It only drips in so the apex seal can squeegee it across the rotor housing. That's all the OMP it's designed to do. For whatever reason everyone thinks it sprays in like a fuel injector. It does not do that. So it doesn't matter if your pumping in crank case oil, 2 cyl oil or even molasses, your not going to get any extra protection on the side plates. Now that's not to say that the conversion kit is worthless. It is and improvement because 2 cyl oil burns cleaner plus you have less carbon build up in the apex seal grooves however, nothing lubes the combustion chambers as well as pre-mixing does. It can damn near double the life of a rotary engine because when injected by the fuel injectors, the turbulence of the air flow distributes the film all over. OMP can never do this regardless of what you use as a lubricant.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

I haven't yet. Only one bolt lines up. I have to use plenty of silicon on the front and outside (kinda like what you would do with bathroom chalk). Also when I put on the oil pan, I let the engine sit overnight with all the weight on the pan to help compress the silicon. That's one of my secrets to avoiding oil pan braces on my other rebuilds. No leaks for now! I'm going to build a pan with baffles later on. You also have to make sure the crank case is well ventilated (which really applies to all rotarys). Rotarys (especially the turbo ones) can build up a hugh amounts of crankcase pressure if not vented properly. Even a perfectly sealed pan can leak if the crankcase builds up too much pressure. Not too long ago I was running my engine and accidentally disconnected the PVC line while is was on my test stand. I started revving the engine and all of a sudden I was leaking oil all over the front of my engine. I was like WTF. It turns that I didn't silicon one of the front holes. Well it never leaked before with the PVC line hooked up. With no ventilation the oil started spewing out when the crank case pressure built up. That's when I knew that even NA rotarys even built up lots of crankcase pressure. So in general if you seal the pan really good and vent the crank case even better, it will never leak.

Ottoman

lol no i'm not an oil baron..

what I meant was how do I know if there's 10 liters or 8 literes or 15 liters left in the tank when I fill up?

and FD's are notorious for fuel starvation was fuel levels are low...

so it's reccomended to keep the tank half full or more...

so when I'm pre-mixing.. how do I know if i'm diluting or over mixing the 2 stroke was my question...

how important is the 100:1 ratio?


Thanks man.. I didn't realize that..

looks like it's going to go Pre-mix and FD cover after all...

looks like I have to take the engine back out again *sigh*

hIGGI

iTrader: (7)

Forget whats inside fuel tank and focus only on what are you putting in. What is inside is premixed already and amount filled is clearly shown on your bill. Add appropriate amount of oil once fuel is filled. It will get properly mixed by fuel circulation and car movement anyways.....

t-von

iTrader: (8)

^ Right but remember if your adding after you fill up, always try to add a little bit more fuel to drain the filler neck. You don't want all your oil slowly draining down and just sitting there. I always add my oil 1st then gas. Even with a full tank, you can always add a little bit more fuel.



Ottoman, The ratios are really only important for racing. 1/2 oz per gallon is plently for the street. 1oz for the track. Even if you have half a tank and forget to premix (which I'm sure you wont forget) you'll still be fine. My na fc has over 40k on it's rebuild. It's premixed only. There were times where I just put gas in an drove off. I did that for about 8 or 9 tank fills over that span. The oil film with-in the fuel system kinda hangs around so don't worry if you run low on oil and get somewhere and can't buy any. I haven't driven that car in over a year. I recently started it up and it ran just fine. Even my 5th and 6th aux actuators are still nice and loose (not sticking) after all this time. That would not be the case if my engine was cabon infested. Yep the power of premixing. I can go on and on!!!!