the 13g parts fouled me up, but they are the ZR01/ZR03 stuff, the 20b parts are all NF01. mazdacomp has them both listed as 20b.

mike

 

I can't find many of those parts in my catalog or online. Do you know if the intake components are still in production?

Hmm, the name of the picture is Manifold_20B.jpg. Is there some "20B" Porsche designation that I don't know about?

Well, of course all the prices on this forum have a basis. The price will vary depending on whether you can obtain used parts, which country or state you live in, the quality of the parts or components, who you know, whether you can fabricate the part, etc. If you think that you can get/make things for less, then that's great, but please allow others reading the posts to keep a more realistic outlook.

 

i dont know if the intake stuff is available, i do have all the part #'s (98 mazdaspeed catalog) but the 13g is a peri port. i can ask around if you want

mike

 

Well, i do think i was being fairly objective..


Alot of people on this forum are capable of minor fabrication that it takes.. I don't expect anyone to make the driveshaft.. I didn't do that either.


I think most people could get a 13BT into a 1st gen for ~10K... Which is pretty much what i listed above.. And as it turns out a 20B NA would not be a whole lot more expensive. as long as you forget about the turbos..



-Zach

 

Sorta on topic here. I just added up my 13b-re --> 83 Rx-7 project and I came up with $5030.73.

Includes
Car, -SE parts car, 13B-RE engine, T2 trans, Mitsu 25g turbo, riceracing I/C, Gauges and about 100 little receipts that I kept over the past 2 years. I still have to get a ECU, driveshaft, wastegate, manifold (on it's way) then I'm in buisness. I'm guessing that I'll have 7000-7500 into my car by the time I get it on the road.

I think I got away CHEEP on a lot of things so I'd say it would be ~ 10k also to do what zyounker and I are doing.

 

The Injection Perfection setup does bolt right onto a 20B. The purple section you can see at the bottom bolts onto the lower intake section and points the throttles across the top of the motor.

Has anyone been thinking of the differential that needs upgrading, the stronger tailshaft and uni-joints, a kick *** clutch, the firmer front suspension, bigger brakes, getting the gearstick to point out the same hole, getting the clutch slave to fit without cutting up the firewall, the big fuel system, etc...etc...

All those parts start adding up very quickly. Trust me, I am still going on mine. Ahhh, I remember the care free days when I was running a 13BT and I could get parts anywhere and cheaply.......

 

Hehehe, I feel your pain. I had to ditch the 15gal fuel cell after I did some fuel calculations, and now I'm not sure if I can even use my Mazda Motorsports clutch/flywheel setup with any of the high-torque transmissions on the market. Still looking, though.

I think that most of the other conversions are going for a more realistic stock 20B configuration, although there are a few out there who live in lala land and think that they can build a high-hp 20B car for cheap.

 

Hey, I was born in lala land, all my family and friends live here, and I plan to die here. So don't knock my hometown.

 

Yes, finding a trans that will hold the grunt and still fit in the tunnel without major mods is a challenge. I am running a Supra box from the 7MGTE due to its compact size and it is barely doing the job. It will handle normal road and circuit duties but forget drag racing with it. Exactly the reason why I dont drag my car. It has enough torque to do some big damage if the tyres grip.

I just pulled the front suspension out of my car and getting adjustable spring platforms and much firmer springs. It will be good to be able to set up the corner weights a bit better and shift some weight back by raising and stiffening the front. Hopefully it will help prevent some of the tail-happy ways the car has. One thing that has been done and seemed to work was removing the rear sway bar. It helps keep the inside rear tyre on the ground rather than lifting weight from it during cornering. The body rolls a little bit more but it helped traction out of corners a fair bit.

Something else to note is that I will be spending alot of time and a small fortune going over the chassis and bracing or gussetting everywhere I can to stiffen things. The car is generally OK but you can feel it twisting up a little under hard acceleration in the upper gears.

 

Have you replaced the Watts linkage with a Panhard rod? The Watts' roll center is fairly high up and this is most of the reason why the car is so tail happy and "nervous" when going round corners because the roll center is fairly close to the center of gravity - as the axle moves up and down the leverage the chassis has over the suspension significantly changes. The Panhard allows you to position the roll center much lower, not only making the car less tailhappy in and of itself, but also more predictable because the roll center/C.G. relationship doesn't change so radically.

 

It still has it but a panhard rod is already on my mind. With the Borg Warner diff in there I am not sure how its placement is compared to standard and have not had enough time to adjust things.