20B FD conversion???'s
#1
______
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
20B FD conversion???'s
I am going to do a 20B FD conversion, I would like to know what is the best subframe conversion.
1. no bump steer
2. doesn't move the drivetrain aft
3. doesnt move the rack and pinion (welding of steering components)
4. I am using the p/s pump and a/c so the altenator has to remain in the stock location.
I would like info on FD 20B handling how much does the weight out over the front change the feel of the car.
1. no bump steer
2. doesn't move the drivetrain aft
3. doesnt move the rack and pinion (welding of steering components)
4. I am using the p/s pump and a/c so the altenator has to remain in the stock location.
I would like info on FD 20B handling how much does the weight out over the front change the feel of the car.
#3
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (6)
Won't the Pettit subframe work best for the above? It covers 2-4 (I think) and then solves #1 thru a modification of the spindles for the bump steer issue.
The change in handling is nil, at least for me. I've also swapped out my suspension for adjustable Tein coilovers so I feel my handling is better now than before.
The change in handling is nil, at least for me. I've also swapped out my suspension for adjustable Tein coilovers so I feel my handling is better now than before.
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Won't the Pettit subframe work best for the above? It covers 2-4 (I think) and then solves #1 thru a modification of the spindles for the bump steer issue.
The change in handling is nil, at least for me. I've also swapped out my suspension for adjustable Tein coilovers so I feel my handling is better now than before.
The change in handling is nil, at least for me. I've also swapped out my suspension for adjustable Tein coilovers so I feel my handling is better now than before.
I have driven David's car, no bumpsteer and it handles like a dream....
Give us a call at 817-788-8726. We would be glad to help you if you have any specific questions.
Gotham Racing
#6
rebreaking things
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manhattan
Posts: 866
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Before you make a decision I suggest you speak to Defined Autoworks. They have a thread in the vendor section. They make one of the cleanest conversions available (the stock steering rack is not moved. Logan is very bright, very creative, and experienced in fabrication, engine building, and electronics -all key areas for this project. They also have an in house dyno. They are truly a one stop.
#7
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
That's not true! His engine location has nothing to do about is in-ability to turbo charge it. If he doesn't move the engine back and sits it above the rack, their are two major things he will need to consider. 1st he will have problems with using the alternator in the stock location as it will hit the hood. 2nd he will need to shorten the LIM if he plans on using the 20b factory intake.
Last edited by t-von; 10-01-07 at 09:42 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
On flats
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't be too scared of moving the rack, most subframe shops have pretty well fixed the bump steer problem. I understand your hesitation to move the rack, that's why I went with GTORX7's solution. I, however, am not keeping AC.
#10
______
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, after a 10 min search this is what I have come up with. Out of this list I am looking for the subrame that does NOT requier:
1. Cutting the fire wall
2. Cutting steering components and re-welding (bump steer)
3. Cutting the intake manifold (clear the hood)
4. Moving the alternator (a/c and p/s remain)
5. Moving the rack out of stock location
I will be doing all the work, and I would like to start with a foundation that is not going to require me to work harder (more fab + more time = more money)
Pettit Racing http://www.pettitracing.com/
Hinson Super Cars http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/index.htm
Turner Design & Racing http://www.turnerdr.com/
Autotech Motorsports LLC http://www.autotechmotorsports.com/
A-Spec Tuning http://www.a-spectuning.com/products.htm
Granny's Speed Shops' http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/mainpage.html
Rotaryengine.com http://www.rotaryengine.com/productp...suspension.htm
Thanks
1. Cutting the fire wall
2. Cutting steering components and re-welding (bump steer)
3. Cutting the intake manifold (clear the hood)
4. Moving the alternator (a/c and p/s remain)
5. Moving the rack out of stock location
I will be doing all the work, and I would like to start with a foundation that is not going to require me to work harder (more fab + more time = more money)
Pettit Racing http://www.pettitracing.com/
Hinson Super Cars http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/index.htm
Turner Design & Racing http://www.turnerdr.com/
Autotech Motorsports LLC http://www.autotechmotorsports.com/
A-Spec Tuning http://www.a-spectuning.com/products.htm
Granny's Speed Shops' http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/mainpage.html
Rotaryengine.com http://www.rotaryengine.com/productp...suspension.htm
Thanks
Last edited by synergy7; 10-02-07 at 09:44 AM.
#11
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (6)
^Call Gotham Racing (817.788.8726) and ask for Alex or George. They have a ton of experience with 3 rotor conversions. In fact, they have at least two in the shop right now.
The Pettit subrame satifies your criteria. For bumpsteer, the spindles are modified, nothing else. It's an easy mod.
The Pettit subrame satifies your criteria. For bumpsteer, the spindles are modified, nothing else. It's an easy mod.
#12
On flats
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well as I see it, the only solution that meets all that criteria is fabricating the mounts/subframe yourself and modifying the hood. EVERY one of those kits violates #5. Again, I think that you are putting too much weight on that criterion. While every one of those kits violates #5, they also correct the problem adequately.
#13
______
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Understood Calculon, but thats my point I want to find out whats the best subframe with the least mods.
So what you guys are saying is that non of the other subframes come close to what I am looking for. I find that non of the shops give informative details re: suframe engine mounting specs ( by specs I mean details).
BTW Calculon how is the gt42 on the 20B I thought the 20b would out flow the GT42, I was researching T-88 (Y2K) turbos to run 21psi max. If any boudy can direct me to a clear Y2K compresor map I would appreciate it ( I have only found one that was not very clear)
So what you guys are saying is that non of the other subframes come close to what I am looking for. I find that non of the shops give informative details re: suframe engine mounting specs ( by specs I mean details).
BTW Calculon how is the gt42 on the 20B I thought the 20b would out flow the GT42, I was researching T-88 (Y2K) turbos to run 21psi max. If any boudy can direct me to a clear Y2K compresor map I would appreciate it ( I have only found one that was not very clear)
#14
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (6)
Understood Calculon, but thats my point I want to find out whats the best subframe with the least mods.
So what you guys are saying is that non of the other subframes come close to what I am looking for. I find that non of the shops give informative details re: suframe engine mounting specs ( by specs I mean details).
BTW Calculon how is the gt42 on the 20B I thought the 20b would out flow the GT42, I was researching T-88 (Y2K) turbos to run 21psi max. If any boudy can direct me to a clear Y2K compresor map I would appreciate it ( I have only found one that was not very clear)
So what you guys are saying is that non of the other subframes come close to what I am looking for. I find that non of the shops give informative details re: suframe engine mounting specs ( by specs I mean details).
BTW Calculon how is the gt42 on the 20B I thought the 20b would out flow the GT42, I was researching T-88 (Y2K) turbos to run 21psi max. If any boudy can direct me to a clear Y2K compresor map I would appreciate it ( I have only found one that was not very clear)
Regarding the GT42R, this would be my choice for the 20B if you are trying to make 800 WHP or below. Maybe cmonaker can chime in on this one. I think that's what he's running in his 20B. I know 600-700 WHP is possible on the GT42R.
Cmonaker, doesn't the Defined Autoworks kit eliminate p/s and a/c? I was intrigued with the kit until I found this out.
#16
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
Ok, after a 10 min search this is what I have come up with. Out of this list I am looking for the subrame that does NOT requier:
1. Cutting the fire wall
2. Cutting steering components and re-welding (bump steer)
3. Cutting the intake manifold (clear the hood)
4. Moving the alternator (a/c and p/s remain)
5. Moving the rack out of stock location
I will be doing all the work, and I would like to start with a foundation that is not going to require me to work harder (more fab + more time = more money)
Thanks
1. Cutting the fire wall
2. Cutting steering components and re-welding (bump steer)
3. Cutting the intake manifold (clear the hood)
4. Moving the alternator (a/c and p/s remain)
5. Moving the rack out of stock location
I will be doing all the work, and I would like to start with a foundation that is not going to require me to work harder (more fab + more time = more money)
Thanks
All those subframes from your link are going to lower the engine and move the rack for intake manifold clearence. If you keep your engine in the stock location (sitting it over the un moved rack), will WILL have to move the alternator where the A/C goes or the smog pump location. A/C area is what GT1-20b did. You WILL also have to shorten the LIM to keep the UIM from hitting the hood. A 20b project isn't like Burger King (have it your way). There are going to be some limitations within the working area that wont easily be overcome unless you are willing to do the neccessary fab work. Plain and simple, your going to have to work harder to accomplish this.
Last edited by t-von; 10-02-07 at 05:49 PM.
#17
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
Though they are all designed differently, they all serve the same purpose. They do make the project much easiler by making it more bolt on. Most of the fab work then starts with exhaust and intake. Personally I have an entirely different goal with my project. That's to stay true to Mazda's Engineering Design intent. So yea I have to do a **** load of fab work.
#18
______
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, Points taken if it has to be lower fine but I say I dont want it moved back because then you would get in to transmission and drive shaft issues (correct?) if it were not for this then going down and back would be great for cg
#19
______
Thread Starter
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone have 1st hand informaton directly related to the rx7 specialist or Autotech 20B subframes
http://www.rotaryengine.com/productp...suspension.htm
http://www.autotechmotorsports.com/
http://www.rotaryengine.com/productp...suspension.htm
http://www.autotechmotorsports.com/
#22
I used the xcessive manufacturing install kit and LIM. Bryan Smith from Rotorsports Racing is doing the install and he is very pleased with the kit. I recommend you give him a call, we explored several options and this is the one he recommend. The kit maintains the OEM subframe as well as stock AC and PS. The LIM lowers the manifold for clearance.
Cheers,
Steven
Cheers,
Steven
Last edited by SW20/FD3; 02-09-14 at 10:53 AM.
#23
I used the xcessive manufacturing install kit and LIM. Bryan Smith from Rotorsports Racing is doing the install and he is very pleased with the kit. I recommend you give him a call, we explored several options and this is the one he recommend. The kit maintains the OEM subframe as well as stock AC and PS. The LIM lowers the manifold for clearance.
Cheers,
Steven
Cheers,
Steven
This sounds like it could be your kit op I've heard pretty good things about this kit. I did not know it allowed you retain both power steering and a/c though :/ hopefully it will work for you!