I am going to do a 20B FD conversion, I would like to know what is the best subframe conversion.

1. no bump steer
2. doesn't move the drivetrain aft
3. doesnt move the rack and pinion (welding of steering components)
4. I am using the p/s pump and a/c so the altenator has to remain in the stock location.

I would like info on FD 20B handling how much does the weight out over the front change the feel of the car.

 

There is no way to do everything you said unless you are willing to go NA.

Is that your intention?

 

Won't the Pettit subframe work best for the above? It covers 2-4 (I think) and then solves #1 thru a modification of the spindles for the bump steer issue.

The change in handling is nil, at least for me. I've also swapped out my suspension for adjustable Tein coilovers so I feel my handling is better now than before.

 

True that!
I have driven David's car, no bumpsteer and it handles like a dream....
Give us a call at 817-788-8726. We would be glad to help you if you have any specific questions.

Gotham Racing

 

I am looking to go turbo not sure why that would make a difference, I know of about 5-6 shops selling kits for the conversion I will list them for feed back.

 

Before you make a decision I suggest you speak to Defined Autoworks. They have a thread in the vendor section. They make one of the cleanest conversions available (the stock steering rack is not moved. Logan is very bright, very creative, and experienced in fabrication, engine building, and electronics -all key areas for this project. They also have an in house dyno. They are truly a one stop.

 

That's not true! His engine location has nothing to do about is in-ability to turbo charge it. If he doesn't move the engine back and sits it above the rack, their are two major things he will need to consider. 1st he will have problems with using the alternator in the stock location as it will hit the hood. 2nd he will need to shorten the LIM if he plans on using the 20b factory intake.

 

You are correct. . .you can satisfy all parameters and stay turbo.

I was assuming that he wanted to close his hood without putting holes in it.

 

The reason that it'd make a difference, is that if you don't need to put a turbo on the passenger side of your engine. . .you can put an alternator there and then have all four parameters you listed satisfied with a hood that closes unmodified.

I wouldn't be too scared of moving the rack, most subframe shops have pretty well fixed the bump steer problem. I understand your hesitation to move the rack, that's why I went with GTORX7's solution. I, however, am not keeping AC.

 

Ok, after a 10 min search this is what I have come up with. Out of this list I am looking for the subrame that does NOT requier:
1. Cutting the fire wall
2. Cutting steering components and re-welding (bump steer)
3. Cutting the intake manifold (clear the hood)
4. Moving the alternator (a/c and p/s remain)
5. Moving the rack out of stock location

I will be doing all the work, and I would like to start with a foundation that is not going to require me to work harder (more fab + more time = more money)

Pettit Racing http://www.pettitracing.com/
Hinson Super Cars http://www.hinsonsupercars.com/index.htm
Turner Design & Racing http://www.turnerdr.com/
Autotech Motorsports LLC http://www.autotechmotorsports.com/
A-Spec Tuning http://www.a-spectuning.com/products.htm
Granny's Speed Shops' http://members.tripod.com/~grannys/mainpage.html
Rotaryengine.com http://www.rotaryengine.com/productp...suspension.htm

Thanks

 

^Call Gotham Racing (817.788.8726) and ask for Alex or George. They have a ton of experience with 3 rotor conversions. In fact, they have at least two in the shop right now.

The Pettit subrame satifies your criteria. For bumpsteer, the spindles are modified, nothing else. It's an easy mod.

 

well as I see it, the only solution that meets all that criteria is fabricating the mounts/subframe yourself and modifying the hood. EVERY one of those kits violates #5. Again, I think that you are putting too much weight on that criterion. While every one of those kits violates #5, they also correct the problem adequately.

 

Understood Calculon, but thats my point I want to find out whats the best subframe with the least mods.

So what you guys are saying is that non of the other subframes come close to what I am looking for. I find that non of the shops give informative details re: suframe engine mounting specs ( by specs I mean details).



BTW Calculon how is the gt42 on the 20B I thought the 20b would out flow the GT42, I was researching T-88 (Y2K) turbos to run 21psi max. If any boudy can direct me to a clear Y2K compresor map I would appreciate it ( I have only found one that was not very clear)

 

Does the Pettit subframe move the rack? I don't think so but could be wrong. I've got the Petit subframe in my car and I was under the impression the rack stayed the same but the spindles were modified. I also run a/c and p/s so I know this works. So outside of modifying the spindles why doesn't the Pettit subframe work for you?

Regarding the GT42R, this would be my choice for the 20B if you are trying to make 800 WHP or below. Maybe cmonaker can chime in on this one. I think that's what he's running in his 20B. I know 600-700 WHP is possible on the GT42R.

Cmonaker, doesn't the Defined Autoworks kit eliminate p/s and a/c? I was intrigued with the kit until I found this out.

 

Re: Defined kit. . .

It only eliminates one or the other, unless you go NA, then you can have it all.

 

All those subframes from your link are going to lower the engine and move the rack for intake manifold clearence. If you keep your engine in the stock location (sitting it over the un moved rack), will WILL have to move the alternator where the A/C goes or the smog pump location. A/C area is what GT1-20b did. You WILL also have to shorten the LIM to keep the UIM from hitting the hood. A 20b project isn't like Burger King (have it your way). There are going to be some limitations within the working area that wont easily be overcome unless you are willing to do the neccessary fab work. Plain and simple, your going to have to work harder to accomplish this.

 

Though they are all designed differently, they all serve the same purpose. They do make the project much easiler by making it more bolt on. Most of the fab work then starts with exhaust and intake. Personally I have an entirely different goal with my project. That's to stay true to Mazda's Engineering Design intent. So yea I have to do a **** load of fab work.

 

Ok, Points taken if it has to be lower fine but I say I dont want it moved back because then you would get in to transmission and drive shaft issues (correct?) if it were not for this then going down and back would be great for cg

 

Does anyone have 1st hand informaton directly related to the rx7 specialist or Autotech 20B subframes

http://www.rotaryengine.com/productp...suspension.htm

http://www.autotechmotorsports.com/

 

does anybody have pics and info on autotech conversion

 

Pics?

 

I used the xcessive manufacturing install kit and LIM. Bryan Smith from Rotorsports Racing is doing the install and he is very pleased with the kit. I recommend you give him a call, we explored several options and this is the one he recommend. The kit maintains the OEM subframe as well as stock AC and PS. The LIM lowers the manifold for clearance.

Cheers,
Steven

 

This sounds like it could be your kit op I've heard pretty good things about this kit. I did not know it allowed you retain both power steering and a/c though :/ hopefully it will work for you!

 

what about Hinson's 20b subframe kit?

20B 3 Rotor Mounting Equipment