I`m working on a 20b fc3 project at the moment. Target is around 7-800 hp. I have already past my 10000$ budget, and still havent bought ecu, radiator, clutch and oil coolers
I have used haltech e6x on earlier 13b projects and tought I`ll use the e11v2 now. My prob is that its expensive and the technology is staring to get old.
My question is what is your experiens with after market ecu like wolf 3d, haltech e11v2, microtech lt12, elktromotive...
What is the best value and which one is the best? hoping I can save some $.
Also, if anyone has a good tip on where I can get radiator, oilcoolers, clutch... for a good price, please let me know.

 

I'm partial to Haltech ECU's myself.
If you want "BEST", I'd recommend MoTeC.


-Ted

 

Yeah, but thats twice the price of E11v2

 

Whatever the tuner is comfortable with should be your first choice.

 

I'm using a Pectel SQ6 on my 3rotor (love it), I've had very good support from Neel @ Apex Speed.

 

Amen.

 

But you're now limiting yourself to the tuner, right?

If the idea you have is "I dont care how it works, just make it work" then going from your Tuners points of view isnt a bad route to take but.. if you're ever going to get your hands dirty - shouldn't you too agree with the EMS choice?

I agree and disagree with the idea of the Tuner picking the ECU for the above reasons. Personally I've had good experience with AEM's EMS on both the 3rotor and 2rotor car. I would buy another one should the time come.

 

Does the Megasquirt work on the 20b?

 

At the moment, you can run it leading only or leading/trailing fired together as it only has native support for the 13B. Another possible option(guessing here) since the MS has "ford" edis support is to run a "fixed split" with a pair of EDIS 6 modules , modified CAS with a small 72-2 gear and the VR sensors accordingly spaced.There is forum member running a similar (long time) 13B turbo setup. MS EDIS setup's have proven noise free that seem to plague enough VR setups on MS's and other aftermarket ecu's.Something to think about if planning to run a turbo on the 20b,could get rather expensive quickly if fighting noise related ecu issues.

 

We are shocked! Who could have predicted that?

FWIW. Ray Wilson at PFSupercars recommended the Haltech. I ended up going with the Electromotive Tec3r, since I already had the timing wheel installed from the Tec IIs. I'm very happy with the Tec3r, but I have plenty of support close at hand, which goes back to the "whatever your tuner likes" approach.

 

Hehe. I dont think that anyone here are shocked, but my wife is starting to get fed up that I`m spending all my money on cars Anyway, the aud is way down at the time and a e11 v2 cost around 1400usd downunder, so I think that will be my choice.

 

Who else is going to get the car performing properly?

 

I use microtech ltx12s, it is easy to use and works fine, but has very limited inputs and outputs. as long as you are going to use stock sensors and only need a couple spare input/output channels, its great.

Radiator- use an AFCO dual pass if you can get them where you are.
Oil cooler- for low boost a stock FC one is OK, for higher power use 2 FC ones or a small intercooler, or 2 large aftermarket coolers.
Clutch- you really want to go with a multi-disk clutch, mazdacomp makes a flywheel that takes 7.25" standard clutches, then get a tilton or quartermaster. You can use a OS Giken or Exedy direct fit twin disk, but its twice the money and harder to rebuild, plus with the 7.25s you can swap in different splined disks when you upgrade trannys.

Pat

 

Well, it isn't all that hard. for me, I've had a harder time with AEM EMS than the Pectel SQ6 EMS. The software made a different in that., however, I would buy another AEM as I'm very comfortable with the ECU and software. The last FD I set up took about 30mins to get running including fuel & ignition as well as accel/tip-in,etc.

 

Right, that's my point: if it's isn't that hard for you, then you probably don't need a tuner, and you can make your own decision on which ECU to use. For plenty of people, wiring in/configuring a standalone is next to impossible. Those people shouldn't be making choices on which ECU to run. They should be trusting a tuner to implement a solution for them.

 

So it's easy then. He's the tuner so he will make the decision!

 

Cris, But your the "tuna" you should make the decision.... hehe..

 

AEM makes an ECU for 3 rotors? I did'nt know that...which one is it?

 

i use microtech , havent had much trouble with it , reasonably simple , and not hard on the wallet either , plus great support from jon

 

I was told to use the AEM you could not have a split, any truth to this? (on a 20B that is)

BTW most aem's are the same box, what changes is the interface board for the connectors. you just have to reconfigure the in/outputs. I'm not sure why but the most popular box being used on everything that aem doesn't have a dedicated box for is the 30-1050, which is a Honda box.

BigAl...

 

two extra injectors and one extra coil output. I could send you one of my maps for a input/output reference if you'd like.

 

As the box comes from AEM, what you are saying is accurate.

With a little bit of soldering, someone figured out how to make it work. If you'd like, I can dig up the write-up, it actually looked pretty straightforward. I was seriously considering going this route at one point, but was just ultimately deterred by the lack of community support.