JDM12GUAGE

wondering how much a full 20b swap would be with stand alone full race built motor all the milling and fuel system done and whatever else everyone else suggestions just need help to have a idea

Butler

Tens of thousands!!! You can do it on the cheap and have cheap crap or you can do it right and likley donate organs to raise money for it. Be absolutey sure you are ready for this and then double check again. Also, if you have a spouse or significant other, make sure they're on board or you will significantly stress the hell out your relationship. Trust me, I just went through it with my project.

CCarlisi

The short block will set you back over $8,000, turbo kit another $5000, Intercooler/BOV ~1,000, ECU 1,600-6,500, fuel system ~1,000, Ignition coils $500.

JDM12GUAGE

8000 for a shortblock that seams kind of high dont you think

Nameless

not if its done right and rebuilt.

JDM12GUAGE

okay thats understand able how much on labor would u think or would u think to even do a 20b swap or should i just build a 13b let me know guys need ur advice

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

If you have to ask, you can't afford it. A full 20B swap will run $15K - $25K if you do your own labor, or $30K - $40K if you pay someone to do it. So yea, you can buy a dozen or so 13Bs for that amount

JDM12GUAGE

i chould afford it but i like to do my research first before i make any kind of moves

666power

how can someone who can't spell "could" afford to do anything?

Quadulus

FD install:
good core motor 3500
rebuild/porting 8500 - I just got a quote to do this, this includes shipping
tranny upgrade 4000 - good for 1200ft/lb and you install yourself
turbo 2500
fuel system 2000
standalone 2500
intercooler 1500
radiator 1500
new underwear 10
(for your test drive)
misc things you forgot.. 1000

There.. you'd still need rims/tires redo the subframe (1500) and put in different motor mounts (ebay 200)

Depending on power level you may need to consider a different differential and shafts.

Dragon

Well my spelling sucks and I've built my own 20B FD w/ T76 and my N/A 20B FC I just finished. Then there are the total of 5 x 20B's I own, 4 more 13B REW's....

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Was this comment even necessary You would be surprised at how wealthy some of the lesser educated people are in the world.

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

Here is my 2 cents, if you want a cheap 20B swap go NA. I have calculated the costs of building up a 13BREW Turbo or building a 20B NA and they are pretty much equal. I cannot remember the exact amounts I figured out, but that is the only way to go if you WANT a 20B and no not want to spend alot of money. I will see if I can find my list and post it up.

To be honest I am not a fan of turbos hence the reason for going NA (power output close to that of REW w/stock twins) and if the swap was not so involved (lack of time right now) I would do a 20B NA in a hearbeart.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

8500 to rebuild after engine purchase? Damn that ridiculous. If you can rebuild a 13b, rebuilding a 20b isn't a problem. Your other prices seen really high. Are these quotes to build an all out drag car? $1,500 for a radiator, $2,000 for the fuel system? Damn.

Quadulus

radiator.. ron davis, custom made

fuel system.. aeromotive a1000 and regulator with filters and sumped tank.

You can go cheaper.. but if you plan on racing, why buy junk?

And the quote for new housings street porting and new bolts came from Steve Kan about 2 weeks ago. Plan on 1000 dollars for shipping from TX to MN and back. That puts you at 8500 for the rebuild.

Travis

eyecandy

iTrader: (19)

I could do a more efficent rad for abou $500 less.

Quadulus, I think you are going to the extreme with some of your items. Altough I do not now where you are getting $2500 for a turbo kit (sounds like an ebay special to me), I find that out of line with the other items.

Dragon

N/A will be slightly cheaper than going with a single turbo and make the car much lighter... The reason N/A will cost you nearly the same as going turbo is that the $ you save on not needing a turbo, manifold, intercooler etc will go towards needing to build a header, intake manifold and throttle bodies if you want to get any decent power out of it. In the long run however it will be way cheaper just due to the lack of wear and tear a turbo engine receives due to the extra power and heat generated by the engine and the fact that there is way way way Way less to go wrong. N/A is also very easy to trouble shoot for problems, you're engine bay looks like something from a 60's - early 70's muscle car and you'll lose about 50-100 lbs of the **** that gets in the way and tends to heat soak the engine bay. The draw back is that you are definitely limited in your possible power out put, but then for most racing or street driving those kinds of power levels aren’t needed.

P.S. I made sure to spell check my post since we are evidentially being evaluated on our English skills and not our understanding or questions regarding internal combustions engines. I was however forced to hit the ignore button several times to leave in the multiple "way way way Way" to make sure that I could get the point across to the other users of the forum that may read my comments that are now all spelled correctly so that they will be able to fully understand them with out interupting the actual topic of this thread. Hopefully I will not be graded on my grammatical skills since I'm currently just talking out my ***.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Well I guess your figuring labor cost as well. FWIW I have the actual Pettit 20b radiator that he uses in the Banzai. It's a custom made Griffin unit. I bought it unused from Red-Rx7 a while back for like $450.00 I think.

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

This sums it up nicely for anyone decided between N/a or turbo. I cant spell worth a damn either. But when you have 4 posts jumping in a saying "YO YO YO, I need a 3rotary thing G, and its gotta have NOS!!' Makes everyone kinda shake there head.

666power

ok i semply chose to poitn out htat he cnat spel


sometimes i cant spell, but ive still had one 20B...so i guess that means im not as poor speller as you, but oh well, my real point is that he has 4 posts, and he asks the same damn noob question everyone asks when they first find out that such a thing as a 20B exists, "how much to put a 20B in my rx-7," if he would read the titles of a few posts he could get all the info he needs, he doesn’t even need to search, its right there

but would it really hurt to have just a little online etiquette?

SpoolinRX

iTrader: (6)

You are so takin me for a ride when you get it done. Call me if ya need an extra hand for wrenching. You have still yet to get a ride in my car, you still got my #?
Zach

Quadulus

You bet, I'll have to come to Fargo to crush all the ricers with the triple aluminum spoilers that are running around town.

Positive I got ur number on my Pm's

Travis

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

I have a triple aluminum wing........

jax

fom jax i have a 20b for sale rx8 rotors, ceramic seals, austrialian shaft, engine good for 9500rpm, pher port, pmo carb, racing beat distributor, intake, header, all wiring, crane boxes, 2 spare housing, spare shaft 20b, 2 spare rotors, 20b $ 17,500.00 us 604 985 7745

86-91 body imsa roller race car, trani, speedway rear end, 16 wheels, 18 tires, 4 six piston calipers, stack, 5 point harness, reace seat, fire system, full cell, etc. 19,500.00 us call 604 985 7745

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Damn Dragon!! I thought I had some engines..

I also CN'T spell and have the worst grammer ever!!
I own 3 FD's, 2 x 20Bs, 6x 13B REWs (including the ones in the car 9 13bs), 5 stock turbos (6 including the ones in the car), 1x T76BB, 1xBNR stage 3, 1x custom twins,... list goes on.. How do I afford all this, "I'm in debt up to my eyeballs". LOL!