Alright, I'm looking into swapping a 20B into my little B210 not looking for a track monster or anything. But will be doing a rebuild of the engine and what not. But I am looking from 300WHP-roughly 450WHP. I know most will say that is "track monster" territory, but I'm looking for a very fun little car, that'll be unique persay, which no one will expect when i finally get the project done and out to the track!

Please no suspension, chassis nit-pickers, or nay-sayers. I just need engine advice here!

I'm looking more for ideas on a few routes i can go engine wise. What type of mods, any porting, ect would need to be done to attain these goals, and approx hp for each option.

Option 1) Carb'd N/A (even it may not reach 300WHP still looking at the option of it, and what needs to be done)

Option 2) Injected N/A (depending on HP may like this idea best, since people will be left scratching their heads when this thing rips)

Option 3) Turbo (I know 450WHP is attainable, what mods would make the engine last a bit longer than normal!)


Any and all advice is welcome, while I'm tracking down an engine right now, I'm trying to build myself a budget sheet so i have a close approximation of the costs on this aspect of the project

 

I dont know too much about 20b power outputs, but if you are doing a build, personally I woud reccomend going with a big port, fuel injection, standalone and race intake/exhaust.. with a good bridge/monster port you can push an easy 300-350WHP. not to mention it'll be more relaible then a turbo build IMO.
or you could go turbo'd... the turbo set-up would cost 5-9K (with fuel mods as well) and will give you basically limitless power... a MINIMUM of 450 (on like 8-10psi), most 20b single set-ups wont even flinch at 600-700... and hitting the 1000 is not too difficult.
Search and search some more... if I where you Id just go with a built 13B from an s5 TII... WAAAAAAYYYYY cheaper, and will push the #s you want.

 

Thanks, unfortunately the car it's going in 600hp would rip it in half (even with al lthe bracing i'm planning on doing already), which is why i picked 450WHP maximum for my goal.

I don't know to much about porting, but i'd want to keep it as a streetable car, where if i wanted could be an "impractical" yet fun daily driver for me.

As for the built 13B, i had thought about using that engine, but i'd want something unique that people would really scratch their heads over (more so if i kept the 20B n/a and still made my minimum goals.)

 

To make that sort of HP u don't need much especially with a 20B.A streetport will work and it does not have to be a large race style port also you will have to consider a standalone management like a Microtech LT-12S because of price issues compared to what else is out there and this all depends on what extra features you are looking for in an ECU.As with turbo issues the stocks can work well for now or you can go with a Garrett Gt-4076R as you want a street car but the stocks can work fine with a boost controller nothing fancy a TurboXS dual stage will do but you have to reseal the engine but in a light chassis 350-400BHP will feel alot more.

 

"but in a light chassis 350-400BHP will feel alot more." believe me, right now, stock the car i'm planning on putting the 20B into weighs in at just over 2150lbs with a full tank, and me in it! Added when i do the swap, i'm adding a cage for bracing, and adding alot more bracing in other places as well, upping the suspension, and looking into a modified ford 9" out back.

If possible would love to make at least 300-350hp N/A as that would definitely add to the sleeper effect of the car. Don't know to, to much about standalone systems as I'm a carb'd guy at heart (muscle car guy, slowly converting to partial rotor head *grins*) But something i guess middle of the road from whats out there, thats "user friendly"

 

i would run 3 big mikuni smooth bores or something to that effect, stand alone will be expensive but if you got the money its obviously the better choice. post the progress pics.

 

How well would those mikuni smooth bores work for producing the HP numbers i'm looking to gain, and what porting would work best with them and keep the car streetable?

progress pics won't be up for quite sometime, going to get the engine and everything in order, then start on the chassis.

Just trying to figure out what i'll need for the engine build, and working on the budget for that, so i know how to manage the build better since this will be a 2year project roughly. (i'm picky like that) But don't worry once things start coming together pics shall be posted

 

Porting is completely unnecessary for your power goals. If all possible just make sure you find a later series 20b block "B" and higher as these have the better e-shafts and more metal material around the upper dowel areas. Attila the Fun made over 350 whp with the stock non seq twins and the engine lasted over 75,000 miles. His engine only had a basic rebuild.

 

So thats if i'm going turbo, i can handle that. Saves me money if i do go turbo

What about the porting needed if i was to go N/A and still keep it somewhat street-able?

 

This mightv help you..

My na injected extend port 20B made a best of 245 rwhp

With an ITB setp it made 295 rwhp

With a TA45/T04 turbo and back to the stock intake it made 400 rwhp on only 6 pounds, 450 rwhp on 9 pounds

 

Here are some i have done and tried,Its all about tuning.

 

N/A w ITBs gets my vote. Plenty of power if setup right for a sub 3000lb car, reliable, simple, and has a really nice induction scream.