Hello.
just got my 85 GSL Se (13b and egi, but you knew that) Its my second car, been waiting for days for it, I've had a Nissan Pulsar NX with a *gasp* 70 hp engine hauling a 2800lb car around, so the rx7 is a refreshing taste of life. I took it out for my first drive in it today, and shifted into first and hit the accelerator. woosh off I go until 5000 rpms. *chin drops to knee* it won't go past 5000at all. so I shifted into second and then I got up to 5000 and stopped accelerating. so disapointing after reading about the rotary's ability.(I'm not bashing rotary engines, theres something wrong with this car)

I don't understand... aaaahhh. it just stops!!! at 5000!! I bought from this old retired rich guy who maintained it meticuously(oil change every 2000 and took it to the dealership every time he thought there was somethign wrong with it and had them fix everything they could find) so I really don't get it. My friend suggested that it might be an rpm limiter, I pushed the clutch and tried to make it go over 5000 and it did, way over 5000. So, I don't think its that, but I am new to these engines, so if you have any ideas, I would really appreciate it.

thanks, in advance

 

fuel filter?

 

really? would that cause it to just hit a roof, so to speak? i mean it was fast acceleration to 5k and then instantly stopped and stayed there.

if so, is the remedy a new fuel filter, or a better one(better than stock)?

thanks for the response

 

Does this only happen under acceleration? Does this happen in all gears, regardless of vehicle speed?

My first opinion is that this may be an airflow restriction, or perhaps an Air Flow Meter (AFM) that is sending the wrong signal to the ECU regarding fuel mapping. On this note, try taking out the air filter and take it for a quick test drive - if it runs fine after that, get a new air filter (K&N recommended).

If the airfilter trick doesn't work, take your finger and insert it into the hole at the bottom of the airbox (this is the mouth to the AFM). Push in gently with your finger and you can push the 'door' backward against it's spring. If you can push this door smoothly and gently all the way to the 'open' position, then the AFM is mechanically able to pass the correct signal to the ECU.

If those check out, it could be that the AFM electronics have gone out which is preventing the engine from reving beyond 5k rpm.

Does it idle smoothly? What rpm is the idle? Some more explanation may help us to help you track it down. Good luck, and report back;

 

It doesn't have an aftermarket ignition system does it, with a rev limiter - 6AL? Most likely not but an idea.

 

I just recently bought a gslse myself and had a similiar problem. Mine wouldnt stop, but it would get to about 5k and get very weak afterward. Turns out it was the auxiliary port valves. What these valves do is close off an intake port at lower rpms to increase torque and open later to give more power higher in the rpms. My car had been sitting a long time and the valves had gotten stuck closed. If you have a haynes manual for the car you should look them up, it could be the problem.

 

i believe it happens in all the gears although the speed limit is 35 in my area so i dunno about anything but 1st and 2nd.

interesting, thouhg, in neutral, its completely free, no restriction at all, hit 7000 with almost no pressure on the accelerator. so it seems like, under load, the engine is not getting enough of something.

the car is bone stock.. i just got it and its freezing cold outside and its snowy and it has sports tires on it, I was barely able to drive it home. However, I will try it without the air filter tommorow( thats safe for a for a little while, right? ) and your afm door idea, I will try.

is there a magic way of knowing whether there is an aftermarket ignition system on it?

thanks for being helpful

 

If it shuts down at 5K eventhough it is not under a load I would say that it is not a fuel delivery problem.

that being the case i would look at other things. TPS voltage is a good thing to check as well as AF meter.

A simple scope test would tell you if you are losing ignition at 5K or if werd is right and you have a port valve proble,

 

its got 82k miles if that helps you..

kehoe: i think you misread me, i said that it is completely free when its not underload, it will rev to 7000 (most likely over that) when I am sitting still, in neutral.

werd, I think this maybe the case. The guy i bought it from only drove on the weekends all 18 years he owned it and stopped driving it a month or two ago.

What fix did you valves require? or what does the haynes manual say? (i'll get one soon)

Thanks

 

with the car with such low miles and being driven sparingly, i'd imagine he never pushed the engine either. this being the case, the aux ports are probably stuck closed or the actuators stuck themselves.

there are quick ways to check, just stand on the passenger side of the engine and look at the actuators while reving the engine past 4k rpm...at that point the actuators should open up...if they don't then that may very well be the problem.

do searches on aux ports for 13b's cleaning and such and you'll see many who have done this...

good luck!

 

The ports wont open unless there is load placed on the engine. So just standing there and reving it wont work. Put a little grease on the actuators and then take it for a drive. When you come back look to see if the grease has moved.

 

that load only applys to 2nd gen...1st gen you can rev and see them actuate...

 

clogged fuel line?

 

Is this the auxilary actuator?



I put a bit a pressure on it and it barely moved.


Sorry, another newb question, what should the oil pressure gauge usually read on a stock car like mine?

 

yes that is the actuator...there are 2 of them...

oil pressure...not sure ...haven't ran my car in a while because of the snow

do a search on "oil pressure" someone brought it up a couple of months ago...

 

I read somewhere at idle no less than 15psi and at 2-3k should be around 45 or more. Cant remember where I read it, maybe in the manual.

 

i had a friend check the actuators while I rev'ed the engine.. He said the actuators... actuacte all the way. I still am having the problem. I checked the air filter and its extremely clean.

 

Did you check the AirFlow Meter? It should be easy to move with your finger, clunk to fully closed when you release it, and be smooth throughout it's entire travel. If you feel some resistance, or it stops partway and can't be pushed in further - there's your cause.

The AFM is hard to find on these cars, however, so you might want to rule this out as something that will need to be replaced. Report back,

 

Yeah I did read wrong. Sorry about that.

LongDuck is right. Look closely at the AFM and check your TPS again.


As far as the acuators go can you simply wire them open or shut and go for a test drive. See if it makes any difference. Don't know tons about them, so I am curious to learn more about them.

Might be a simple test you can run however.

Good Luck.

Nothing worse than a RX that does not run right.