French Fried Igniter, thank you very much...
French Fried Igniter, thank you very much...
This is just FYI - maybe it'll help somebody in the same situation sometime...
I've had an ignition problem with the car ever since my alternator went Chernobyl and tried to microwave everything. I was driving home from the store last week when it started to misfire - just a little. Scanning the gauges, I noticed the voltage had jumped to 16+++ Volts! WTF? Alternator for sure, but why the misfire? Afterwards, the car was very hard to start, but ran kinda okay once it started - just didn't have the power or acceleration it used to have. Checking for spark, I discovered no spark to the leading plugs. And no spark from the leading coil. I was running on the trailings only. Turns out I fried the leading igniter. Anyway... got a new (used) one by FedEx yesterday, put it in and the problem was fixed. As for the alternator... it's in the "alternator hospital" getting a hysterectomy.
I want to give you all a big Thank You Very Much! because if it hadn't been for all the knowlege you guys have put into this forum, I would have been lost when it came to diagnosing this problem. Nor would I have known to use thermal compound when I installed the igniter. The Haynes Manual is kinda skimpy in this area. So, once again...
Thank You Very Much! You guys ROCK!
I've had an ignition problem with the car ever since my alternator went Chernobyl and tried to microwave everything. I was driving home from the store last week when it started to misfire - just a little. Scanning the gauges, I noticed the voltage had jumped to 16+++ Volts! WTF? Alternator for sure, but why the misfire? Afterwards, the car was very hard to start, but ran kinda okay once it started - just didn't have the power or acceleration it used to have. Checking for spark, I discovered no spark to the leading plugs. And no spark from the leading coil. I was running on the trailings only. Turns out I fried the leading igniter. Anyway... got a new (used) one by FedEx yesterday, put it in and the problem was fixed. As for the alternator... it's in the "alternator hospital" getting a hysterectomy.
I want to give you all a big Thank You Very Much! because if it hadn't been for all the knowlege you guys have put into this forum, I would have been lost when it came to diagnosing this problem. Nor would I have known to use thermal compound when I installed the igniter. The Haynes Manual is kinda skimpy in this area. So, once again...
Thank You Very Much! You guys ROCK!
The thermal compound serving the same purpose to create more conductivity between 2 surfaces? Where is it to be used on the ignitors because i am hoping that mine is shot. Anyone have any WORKING ignitors for sale, if not where could i get some, other than ebay?
you can find used igniters in junk yards.
the thermal compound doesnt help conductivity it is an insulator. its to help with heat dissapation so you dont get "french fried" igniters
. it goes on the metal surface on the back of the igniter and increases heat flow from the igniter to the dizzy.
the thermal compound doesnt help conductivity it is an insulator. its to help with heat dissapation so you dont get "french fried" igniters
. it goes on the metal surface on the back of the igniter and increases heat flow from the igniter to the dizzy.
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Originally posted by eddierotary
hey zookeeper
did you car started too to not rev up or rev up and cut off? i kinda think i have the same problem but im not sure
hey zookeeper
did you car started too to not rev up or rev up and cut off? i kinda think i have the same problem but im not sure
Originally posted by GavinJuice
The thermal compound serving the same purpose to create more conductivity between 2 surfaces? Where is it to be used on the ignitors because i am hoping that mine is shot. Anyone have any WORKING ignitors for sale, if not where could i get some, other than ebay?
The thermal compound serving the same purpose to create more conductivity between 2 surfaces? Where is it to be used on the ignitors because i am hoping that mine is shot. Anyone have any WORKING ignitors for sale, if not where could i get some, other than ebay?
Originally posted by 79+80+84_rx-7
$20 shipped for one ignitor.... $35 shipped for two.... they are tested and will work perfectly.... pm me if you want mo' info'.....
at least it wasnt fried wires on it!!!!!!
laters....
$20 shipped for one ignitor.... $35 shipped for two.... they are tested and will work perfectly.... pm me if you want mo' info'.....
at least it wasnt fried wires on it!!!!!!
laters....
Originally posted by wwilliam54
change to a gm ignighter
~20$ new
change to a gm ignighter
~20$ new
Edit:
Then again, maybe not... Search term: "GM Igniter" Results:
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Last edited by zookeeper; Jan 29, 2004 at 08:19 PM.
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NOW you tell me!!! I spent $90 for mine from MazdaTrix, but I was in a hullava hurry. I just might take you up on one to keep as a spare - but I'm gonna be out of town for a couple months. If you have any when I get back, I'll get one.
Laterz, Andrew...
Anyone wondering about the GM ignitors, if you search for "HEI" you'll find this, among other threads.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=131535
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=131535
Originally posted by slashdawg00110
Anyone wondering about the GM ignitors, if you search for "HEI" you'll find this, among other threads.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=131535
Anyone wondering about the GM ignitors, if you search for "HEI" you'll find this, among other threads.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=131535
- I just might experiment with those anyway. If nothing else, one might make a good emergency spare.
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