85 GSL

Was starting this morning when I poured gas into the carb, when I noticed that one of the jets wasn't spraying. No gas in the sight window, so I banged on the carb. The window quickly filled up, and gas started spraying, but now it won't start!

I'm just not understanding this...

I am about to give up and sell this damn thing.

 

It sounds like the needle valve in the carb is sticking and not letting gas flow into the bowl. Could just have a little lacquer (from gas) in it. Carb cleaner (through the tank) might help. It could be worn and need replacing. New needle valves come with carb rebuild kits.

- David

 

Give us the history on the car.

Are the plugs fouled?
Auto or manual?
Battery fully charged?
Turning over good?
Spark?

 

check, clean your spark plugs. How's the compression on your engine?

 

New NGKs, cleaned them just in case
manual tranny
new battery, cranks good,
Shocked the **** outta myelf cuz I wasn't payin attention, so i have spark.

Just went outside and it started, big cloud of white smoke, but when I tried to manually unflood, i got nothing.

Again it ran until i lifted throttle, then died

 

float bowl was stuck, now its unstuck and your motor is flooded.

take out your plugs, clean them, turn the motor over with the plugs out some.

then put the plugs in and crank her up. it WILL smoke, just keep nursing it till it smooths out.

 

While yes, it has since started today, it still will not idle. I can keep it running at anything over half throttle, but as soon as I take my foot off the pedal it dies.

And I have to dump gas into the carb to start it

 

idle mixture screw are too lean? or idle isnt set right, electric or manual choke if at all any?

 

Maybe, but I don't think it's ever been adjusted. I don't know.

It has a manual choke, but I don't even know if I'm using it right. When it gets warm it pulls itself back in, but it's 103 degrees out, so I don't know if I am supposed to use it.

Or how to. I havent used a manual choke in like 15 years...

 

Its easy to give up. Youll feel reward with persistance and success.

 

fuel filter?

 

The choke is semi-manual. It is held out electricaly until the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, which is quite a bit hotter then normal air temp. How to use it: (assuming it is like my 85' GS)

1) Turn the ingnition on

2) Pull out the choke (if the engine is warmed up it will not stay out)

3) Turn the ignition to start (choke should stay out)

4) If engine doesn't start pump the accelerator once or twice

5) Try restarting engine

6) Once the engine warms up the choke should retract to it's normal position automatically (I usually push it in a bit after it's running well)

If the engine isn't warmed up and the choke doesn't stay out check the ckoke magnet.

 

Good job. Also if you pull the plugs and see lots of fuel on them keep them out disconnect the trailing plugs aswell. Throw a rag next to the open plug holes and turn the engine over a few times to clear out the flodded fuel.

After youve done this let the garage air out dont light a smoke, Wait a hour and replace the plugs/ wires and try again.

Worked for me more than once.

Hope it helps.

 

Ok, new discovery. I didn't notice before that the two vaccuum lines that come out below the carb on the driver's side are broken. They SHOULD lead down the front of the engine to the bottom on the front. What are they for?

Could that be the problem?

 

bottom of the engine?? Do you have your oil metering pump hooked up? Or are you premixing?

 

I don't premix, so I hope it's hooked up! The ones I'm talking about are very small hard plastic lines with rubber lines on the ends where they hook up to the engine/ carb.

 

I don't premix, so I hope it's hooked up! The ones I'm talking about are very small hard plastic lines with rubber lines on the ends where they hook up to the engine/ carb.

I should say low on the front of the engine, not the bottom.

 

those hard plastic lines with the small rubber hoses should go to your oil metering pump on the front cover of the engine. 2 go to the carb and the other ends should go to the omp.

 

Would that make it not start? I assume they're vaccuum lines.

 

Those are not vacuum lines, they are the lines that supply oil to the combustion chamber for lubrication. Get the fixed asap!


Sticking needles valves is an indication the carb is they are either worn or the carb is varnished up. If the accelerator pump is not squirting and the rear fuel bowl is full, it's plugged up. May be time for a carb rebuild.

1st check is the fuel filter, they're cheap, replace it, then check for fuel to the carb. If that's good, pull the spark plugs, clean and dry them. I bead blast mine when they are fuel fouled, followed by a good spray of brake cleaner and dried with compressed air.

If you have fuel and spark, yet it still won't start, pour a capful of motor oil down each primary barrel and crank for start. If it still won't run right, I'd go for a carb rebuild.

 

I want to make sure I get this right. The primary bowls are the small ones, right?
I have another carb on the way, that way I can rebuild one and see if the one I'm getting helps... I hope.


I am much appreciating the help, guys! Making me glad I chose RX7Club!!!