just like the title, are they the same size? Ive found some FD pulleys that i could buy for my FB, any insight?

 

anyone?

 

?

 

am i the 1st one to think of this? anyone?

 

Only if you change all the pulleys to a serpentine system.

Also, there is no need to do it because they readily sell
underdrive pullies for the FB.

 

how hard would it be to switch to serpintine?

 

I imagine that if you purchase all of the pullies, (eccentric, water pump and alt) you should be good to go!

Ryan

 

The bolt holes don't all line up, and the alternator shaft is definately larger diameter on the FD.

Again, what's the point?

 

don't serpentine belts require more tension than V belts ?

as in, how does the serpentine setup go about setting the belt tension ?

I do NOT know that there is a difference in tension, it just seems that all the serpentine belts that I have pushed on seem to be a LOT tighter than a properly tensioned V belt.

 

I saw a set of underdrive pulleys on ebay recently that you can use a serpentine timing belt-esque belt. $300 or so dollars. WITH belt!
oh, and I'm guessing the tension is set at the alternator for the entire belt.
Then, if you're looking to run a serpentine belt you probably have already ditched the AC and airpump, in which case, I would just get a dual alt pulley, and have a setup just as good for $25.
yay!

 

Is this for a street driven car that's expected to not overheat at idle? Just a word of warning that it can happen.

Oh, and the dual alt pulley is a bad idea as well. Spend less than $25 on a 3L220 or equivilant belt.

 

I don't believe in the 3l220 yahoo practice. I never did find one after searching around locally. Just online. So, I never did try it out.
When I first heard about it, it sounded like a good idea, but now I think it's not. I don't like the idea of using a belt designed to run at low RPM (ie lawnmower) and not being able to adjust out any slack that develops. Also, the other lawnmower belts I checked out didn't seem very tough and looked prone to slippage at high RPM to me. But then, I'm sure theres more than a few people doing it who I haven't heard problems out of, but I just think my way is better. $30 in belts and a pulley really isn't that much.
And my belts actually come on and off easy!
so, nyah!

 

You're right about the fabric covered lawnmower belt. It doesn't look very tough. I've discovered a real automotive V belt at Napa. It's 22 1/8" long by 25/64" wide (close enough to 3/8"). Part number is 7215. It was like $9 or so.

To add to my credibility, I've tried them both. The dual alt belt set liked to slip on my water pump, but seemed fine on a different engine. Then I put a 7215 belt on the other engine and it was still fine. I just put a 7215 on the slipping engine and removed the clutch fan. A slightly scewed test? Well, maybe. That clutch fan will be going onto a rebuild next month, so I'll know by then. I'm actually upgrading all of my engines to the 7215 belt, so I'll see then. Even my 20B has one now.

I totally don't believe in the dual belt setup anymore. The contact patch is too small, and centrifical (or was it centripidal?) force pulls the belts away under high RPM when they tend to go round in shape. The nice thing about the yoohoo belt is that it actually prevents slipping even better at high RPM.

Why do you need your belts to come off easy?

 

So I guess the short answer is ... no?

Plus the whole why on earth are you trying that ...

 

Thread hijack in progress... heh
Hmm, I never thought of that Jeff, I see what you're saying, though. More coverage area is a good thing. If there's a good belt to use inplace of the 3l220, then it's definitely worth a shot.
I've noticed that if you use belts from different manufacturers, the widths are slightly different, so one doesn't sit down far enough on the pulley and that will effect the tension on one or the other. Something to look for, anyways.
And I mean when you need to change them out they come off easy. But then, cutting is pretty easy, too...