Hecubus84

iTrader: (1)

I just test drove a 85 GSL-SE today and I would like to get some feedback from you guys to see if the car is worth it...

The car has around 80,000 miles on it and is in pretty decent shape. The paint is red and isnt faded at all. There is minor rust on the rocker panels and a couple sploches on the sunroof. The engine is the original 13b and it starts up with no hesitation. The instrument cluster comes ablaze with all the warning lights and buzzers so no apparent ground issues. The interior is excellent with the exception of a small tear on the drivers seat. Rubber and trim all looks decent. The alignment appears to be off, the steeringwheel is kicked the the right when youre driving. Seems to track straight despite this. Brakes, Clutch, and Exaust all need replacement. Another thing I noticed is that its slower than my 87 NA FC, feels down about 30 or so horse....

Asking Price: 2,000

Thanks,

The Hec

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Check the rear inner wheel wells for rust, pull the bins out and look there too. I would get underneath it and check for suspension damage There is an 11 hp difference between the SE and S4, but the weight difference should produce near similiar times. The 1st gen should feel more nimble than the 2nd and handle as well.

Price isn't bad for the mileage, but it is high for the repairs needed. If everything mechanical was up to snuff, cosmetics good/better than average, it could be worth 3k. As it sits, providing the wheel wells have no rust, 1500. Brakes, clutch, suspension and exhaust work will run as much as the purchace price if you shop around and do most of your own work. I spent 1100 on parts for my 12A for a full suspension and brake replacement, no labor cost. Shop rate for a clutch runs 5-700. Racing Beat full exhaust, installed, will run 1k.

Since you live in the rust belt, go over the entire body with a fine tooth comb. Minor rust can hide major deterioration behind it.

Hecubus84

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info, this will help me out immensely.

JKM

If the car is in good working order, 2000 sounds pretty good for it. The thing that worries me, though, is that it's slower than your 87 base. I would recommend taking the car to a Mazda dealership to get a compression test done to see how strong the engine is.

The car doesn't make as much power, but my SE (even before the mods) was FASTER than the 91 FC that I had. So much so, I sold the FC. If compression is good, then you should be able to restore the power fairly easily. The precats clog easily, that could be the problem, it was definately a problem on mine.

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

sounds good if you are read to repair it, SE's are where its at in the FB's atleast.

rust will definetaly be the major selling factor, remove those storage bins and take a good look, a little can be fixed but if its major you should move on.

LongDuck

Oh, yeah!

35% more horsepower in stock trim, and it only gets better than that once you start exhaust, timing, and other modifications. The SE's are highly recommended in my book, and I have owned a 12a SA22C for comparison purposes.

What you may find is that any SE that has not been driven fairly aggressively will suffer from locked-up '6'-ports. These auxiliary intake ports are required for top end horsepower and low end torque, and are pressure activated from exhaust backpressure (from the main cat). What usually happens is that carbon deposits prevent the '6'-port sleeves from turning, which effectively limits maximum breathing at WOT. The only fix for this is removal of the UIM, LIM and '6'-port sleeves for cleaning. New gaskets in place and you're ready to rock. Most of the SE idle condition 'issues' can be fixed very readily if you're good with maintenance.

Aside from the rust - which scares me - $2k isn't a bad price to pick up a higher end model with the upgraded engine, EFI, better brakes, LSD, and many other accountrements that a sports-car owner will appreciate. HTH,