Is it worth it?
#1
Rockn' The Galant
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Is it worth it?
Well,
I think the engine may have finally went on my car, I can't get it started for anything. As soon as I turn it over it floods fuel onto the plugs (1-2 turns) and we checked the injectors and they were firing like they should as per the test in the Haynes manual.
Is it worth it to rebuild the engine? I don't have a hoist and limited space as I'll be doing it in my garage; how much does a average mechanic ask for if they swap the engine (Jose Rotary in LA for example).
The paint is in pretty crappy condition, I guess I could do the paint job right if the engine was out anyways?
I just got promoted to $9.50/hr at Best Buy in Geek Squad so my budget just had a little oomph in it, still no where close to what I want it to be but beggars cant be choosers as I was making $6/hr at the car wash.
Is it worth it or should I just sell it and go for a gen 2/3?
- Tech
I think the engine may have finally went on my car, I can't get it started for anything. As soon as I turn it over it floods fuel onto the plugs (1-2 turns) and we checked the injectors and they were firing like they should as per the test in the Haynes manual.
Is it worth it to rebuild the engine? I don't have a hoist and limited space as I'll be doing it in my garage; how much does a average mechanic ask for if they swap the engine (Jose Rotary in LA for example).
The paint is in pretty crappy condition, I guess I could do the paint job right if the engine was out anyways?
I just got promoted to $9.50/hr at Best Buy in Geek Squad so my budget just had a little oomph in it, still no where close to what I want it to be but beggars cant be choosers as I was making $6/hr at the car wash.
Is it worth it or should I just sell it and go for a gen 2/3?
- Tech
#2
Wheel Revolutionist!
its really up to you, it may be worth it but with the plans you have for it it sounds like it will be sitting for awhile. A 3rd gen would be very nice. A FC would not be as fun if i were you i would try a 3rd gen for something new.
#3
Rockn' The Galant
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FC's arent worth it?
Well, if I sold the FB it would be to save up for an FD, I have to have a reliable source of transportation so that's why I have two cars, one's a daily driver.
- Tech
Well, if I sold the FB it would be to save up for an FD, I have to have a reliable source of transportation so that's why I have two cars, one's a daily driver.
- Tech
#5
Wheel Revolutionist!
I have never driven a FC, but from what i have heard you lose the "**** pit" feeling like you have when driving a FB. Might as well go for 3rd gen but i heard there unreliable...
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#8
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
Well,
I think the engine may have finally went on my car, I can't get it started for anything. As soon as I turn it over it floods fuel onto the plugs (1-2 turns) and we checked the injectors and they were firing like they should as per the test in the Haynes manual.
Is it worth it to rebuild the engine? I don't have a hoist and limited space as I'll be doing it in my garage; how much does a average mechanic ask for if they swap the engine (Jose Rotary in LA for example).
The paint is in pretty crappy condition, I guess I could do the paint job right if the engine was out anyways?
I just got promoted to $9.50/hr at Best Buy in Geek Squad so my budget just had a little oomph in it, still no where close to what I want it to be but beggars cant be choosers as I was making $6/hr at the car wash.
Is it worth it or should I just sell it and go for a gen 2/3?
- Tech
I think the engine may have finally went on my car, I can't get it started for anything. As soon as I turn it over it floods fuel onto the plugs (1-2 turns) and we checked the injectors and they were firing like they should as per the test in the Haynes manual.
Is it worth it to rebuild the engine? I don't have a hoist and limited space as I'll be doing it in my garage; how much does a average mechanic ask for if they swap the engine (Jose Rotary in LA for example).
The paint is in pretty crappy condition, I guess I could do the paint job right if the engine was out anyways?
I just got promoted to $9.50/hr at Best Buy in Geek Squad so my budget just had a little oomph in it, still no where close to what I want it to be but beggars cant be choosers as I was making $6/hr at the car wash.
Is it worth it or should I just sell it and go for a gen 2/3?
- Tech
#9
Rotary Freak
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Yeah, check the compression first.
Nothing wrong with and FC other than the forum folks aren't as cool as us! They have decent power, a little more interior room, and if you get a straight body without too many dings and dents they look good. They DO have soom electrical problems. And they're much cheaper than an FD, which is more cramped and unreliable. I plan to get a nice 91 'vert, someday.
B
Nothing wrong with and FC other than the forum folks aren't as cool as us! They have decent power, a little more interior room, and if you get a straight body without too many dings and dents they look good. They DO have soom electrical problems. And they're much cheaper than an FD, which is more cramped and unreliable. I plan to get a nice 91 'vert, someday.
B
#10
1st gens only
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Did you check your coolant temperature sensor? My SE had the same symptoms, all it was was that the coolant temperature sensor had worked itself unplugged a small amount so it wasnt making the connection. I worked almost everyday for 3 weeks on the car and changed a rack of things only to find out that it was unplugged. The plugs were wet everytime I turned it over. Sounds similar and an easy check.
It should be a little green plug on the thermostate housing. A replacement sensor is about $10.
-Greg
It should be a little green plug on the thermostate housing. A replacement sensor is about $10.
-Greg
#11
Rockn' The Galant
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Well,
When I take the two spark plugs out and do the 'ghetto compression test' the compression feels really good, real loud swoosh(s).
HOWEVER, my air force friend who flies B52's and F15/F18's for the USAF says that the test can't be reliable because the air is going to take the path of least resistance, i.e. the quickest way out.
I don’t really have the money on hand; it would be a week to week thing. The thing needed coolant every month so I’m wondering if that has to do with anything? It would smoke on start up as well, but not while running at all.
Right before it stopped starting it developed a nasty idle when it was cold, you’d have to hold the gas at 3k rpms until it warmed up then it would idle fine, if not it would stall out.
Yes Greg, I recently replaced mine; the connector on the harness isn't so great anymore because as soon as I took it off it basically crumbled in my hands.
- Tech
When I take the two spark plugs out and do the 'ghetto compression test' the compression feels really good, real loud swoosh(s).
HOWEVER, my air force friend who flies B52's and F15/F18's for the USAF says that the test can't be reliable because the air is going to take the path of least resistance, i.e. the quickest way out.
I don’t really have the money on hand; it would be a week to week thing. The thing needed coolant every month so I’m wondering if that has to do with anything? It would smoke on start up as well, but not while running at all.
Right before it stopped starting it developed a nasty idle when it was cold, you’d have to hold the gas at 3k rpms until it warmed up then it would idle fine, if not it would stall out.
Yes Greg, I recently replaced mine; the connector on the harness isn't so great anymore because as soon as I took it off it basically crumbled in my hands.
- Tech
Last edited by Tech_Greek; 06-19-05 at 10:57 PM. Reason: Added Information Towards Greg
#14
Originally Posted by Tech_Greek
My dad's got one but I don't want to molest it though, how much do they cost and can you buy a rotary compression tester?
- Tech
- Tech
Purchasing a rotary compression tester isn't feasable unless your going to open a shop or advertise compression testing for a fee as the rotary tester cost a couple of grand.
Last edited by Rotor13B; 06-20-05 at 02:11 AM.
#15
Rockn' The Galant
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Whoops not getting a rotary compression tester then...I'll talk with my dad about doing this.
What's the 'proper' procedure for doing it with the valve out?
- Tech
What's the 'proper' procedure for doing it with the valve out?
- Tech
#16
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If you want a relatively accurate compression test you can use a conventional compression tester. Heres the process.
Disable the fuel system, pull the fusible link, plug the fuel lines whatever. You don't want fuel into the chambers when you are turning the engine over.
Pull all of the plug wires.
Pull the trailing (top) plugs from both rotors.
Screw in the compression tester in the top hole of the front rotor. Hold the release "pin" in on the tester, this will allow the pressure to immediately release on each compression "stroke".
Have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn the car over while you watch the gauge. You should see the needle on the gauge start "bumping" up and down. After watching for a few cycles, you can see the three compression cycles. They should all be fairly consistent and not too low.
Repeat the process with the rear rotor.
Also, the car needs a fully charged battery and good starter. It needs to rotate around 250 rpm to get a decent reading.
Disable the fuel system, pull the fusible link, plug the fuel lines whatever. You don't want fuel into the chambers when you are turning the engine over.
Pull all of the plug wires.
Pull the trailing (top) plugs from both rotors.
Screw in the compression tester in the top hole of the front rotor. Hold the release "pin" in on the tester, this will allow the pressure to immediately release on each compression "stroke".
Have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn the car over while you watch the gauge. You should see the needle on the gauge start "bumping" up and down. After watching for a few cycles, you can see the three compression cycles. They should all be fairly consistent and not too low.
Repeat the process with the rear rotor.
Also, the car needs a fully charged battery and good starter. It needs to rotate around 250 rpm to get a decent reading.
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