Well,

I think the engine may have finally went on my car, I can't get it started for anything. As soon as I turn it over it floods fuel onto the plugs (1-2 turns) and we checked the injectors and they were firing like they should as per the test in the Haynes manual.

Is it worth it to rebuild the engine? I don't have a hoist and limited space as I'll be doing it in my garage; how much does a average mechanic ask for if they swap the engine (Jose Rotary in LA for example).

The paint is in pretty crappy condition, I guess I could do the paint job right if the engine was out anyways?

I just got promoted to $9.50/hr at Best Buy in Geek Squad so my budget just had a little oomph in it, still no where close to what I want it to be but beggars cant be choosers as I was making $6/hr at the car wash.

Is it worth it or should I just sell it and go for a gen 2/3?

- Tech

 

its really up to you, it may be worth it but with the plans you have for it it sounds like it will be sitting for awhile. A 3rd gen would be very nice. A FC would not be as fun if i were you i would try a 3rd gen for something new.

 

FC's arent worth it?

Well, if I sold the FB it would be to save up for an FD, I have to have a reliable source of transportation so that's why I have two cars, one's a daily driver.

- Tech

 

Yes,

The FB would be sitting up for a month or two while I gathered the funds for a rebuild (my guess is close to 2k?).

- Tech

 

I have never driven a FC, but from what i have heard you lose the "**** pit" feeling like you have when driving a FB. Might as well go for 3rd gen but i heard there unreliable...

 

Well, the FB is also cheaper too, how's the FC got a cockpit feel?

 

I thought the FC had a nice cockpit feel--just the outside that is not appealing. With a nice body kit the FC would be better looking.

 

Have you done a compression test? If you going to throw all that money at it, You might as well test your engine first. Even using a ghetto comp tester will give you a ball park figure. If it's hitting 90psi or better on each rotor I would try a different approach to your problem.

 

Yeah, check the compression first.

Nothing wrong with and FC other than the forum folks aren't as cool as us! They have decent power, a little more interior room, and if you get a straight body without too many dings and dents they look good. They DO have soom electrical problems. And they're much cheaper than an FD, which is more cramped and unreliable. I plan to get a nice 91 'vert, someday.

B

 

Did you check your coolant temperature sensor? My SE had the same symptoms, all it was was that the coolant temperature sensor had worked itself unplugged a small amount so it wasnt making the connection. I worked almost everyday for 3 weeks on the car and changed a rack of things only to find out that it was unplugged. The plugs were wet everytime I turned it over. Sounds similar and an easy check.

It should be a little green plug on the thermostate housing. A replacement sensor is about $10.

-Greg

 

Well,

When I take the two spark plugs out and do the 'ghetto compression test' the compression feels really good, real loud swoosh(s).

HOWEVER, my air force friend who flies B52's and F15/F18's for the USAF says that the test can't be reliable because the air is going to take the path of least resistance, i.e. the quickest way out.

I don’t really have the money on hand; it would be a week to week thing. The thing needed coolant every month so I’m wondering if that has to do with anything? It would smoke on start up as well, but not while running at all.

Right before it stopped starting it developed a nasty idle when it was cold, you’d have to hold the gas at 3k rpms until it warmed up then it would idle fine, if not it would stall out.

Yes Greg, I recently replaced mine; the connector on the harness isn't so great anymore because as soon as I took it off it basically crumbled in my hands.

- Tech

 

Go get yourself a piston comp tester, Take out the shraeder valve and test it that way.

 

My dad's got one but I don't want to molest it though, how much do they cost and can you buy a rotary compression tester?

- Tech

 

Taking out the valve won't do any damage to the tester, It just screws into the hose. The one I have measures kg also and it is fairly close when using it in the method described earlier.

Purchasing a rotary compression tester isn't feasable unless your going to open a shop or advertise compression testing for a fee as the rotary tester cost a couple of grand.

 

Whoops not getting a rotary compression tester then...I'll talk with my dad about doing this.

What's the 'proper' procedure for doing it with the valve out?

- Tech

 

If you want a relatively accurate compression test you can use a conventional compression tester. Heres the process.
Disable the fuel system, pull the fusible link, plug the fuel lines whatever. You don't want fuel into the chambers when you are turning the engine over.

Pull all of the plug wires.
Pull the trailing (top) plugs from both rotors.
Screw in the compression tester in the top hole of the front rotor. Hold the release "pin" in on the tester, this will allow the pressure to immediately release on each compression "stroke".
Have someone hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn the car over while you watch the gauge. You should see the needle on the gauge start "bumping" up and down. After watching for a few cycles, you can see the three compression cycles. They should all be fairly consistent and not too low.
Repeat the process with the rear rotor.
Also, the car needs a fully charged battery and good starter. It needs to rotate around 250 rpm to get a decent reading.