Won't start when hot
#26
Full Member
Thread Starter
The numbers are low because your starter is too slow. It sounds slow in the video. I thought I mentioned that already. I guess I didn't before. Get a set of new copper battery cables and see how much faster the starter cranks. 2 gauge is a nice thickness for our cars.
You mean the oil pickup tube with the strainer on the end? Is your oil pan off for some reason? I'd say yes install a gakset. Just RTV probably isn't good enough.
You mean the oil pickup tube with the strainer on the end? Is your oil pan off for some reason? I'd say yes install a gakset. Just RTV probably isn't good enough.
#27
carb whisperer
Well it did alleviate some sort of pressure, just still didn't fix the problem.
I took the car to Mazda. They didn't rebuild the carb but let me know of some problems. The starter isn't in that great of condition and doesn't crank as well when it's hot. They didn't figure out why the carb floods. But I think it may be temperature related. My car was running a bit hotter and when I finally got that sorted it doesn't happen as often, still has a hard time starting. One other thing they did was a compression test, front was 4.9--4.8--4.1 and the rear was 5.4--4.9--5.1, yikes
Random question that I don't want to start a new thread for, sorry: is it ok to run the oil pickup without a gasket temporarily or should I rtv it till the gasket comes in?
I took the car to Mazda. They didn't rebuild the carb but let me know of some problems. The starter isn't in that great of condition and doesn't crank as well when it's hot. They didn't figure out why the carb floods. But I think it may be temperature related. My car was running a bit hotter and when I finally got that sorted it doesn't happen as often, still has a hard time starting. One other thing they did was a compression test, front was 4.9--4.8--4.1 and the rear was 5.4--4.9--5.1, yikes
Random question that I don't want to start a new thread for, sorry: is it ok to run the oil pickup without a gasket temporarily or should I rtv it till the gasket comes in?
THEN, when there is NO VENT PRESSURE INSIDE THE TANK, inspect to see if the carb has magically flooded on its own. It wont have. Good luck.
#28
Full Member
Thread Starter
The gas tank pressure just existing like that in the first place tells me the tank isnt venting right. Period. IT is whats flooding the carb. The only way to fix it is to leave the cap off of the tank AFTER YOU SHUT IT DOWN for about 30 mins while hot.
THEN, when there is NO VENT PRESSURE INSIDE THE TANK, inspect to see if the carb has magically flooded on its own. It wont have. Good luck.
THEN, when there is NO VENT PRESSURE INSIDE THE TANK, inspect to see if the carb has magically flooded on its own. It wont have. Good luck.
#30
Full Member
Thread Starter
So I fixed my temperature problem and I believe thats one of the reasons why my car won't start when its hot. I think the higher than normal temperature overheats the starter so it doesn't function well till it cools down. They did the compression test when it was hot and the starter spun the rotors at 212 rpm. Does that seem low? I'm not sure of what numbers the starter should get. The starter also grinds, but not much I'd say about 1 in 20 times I start my car or less. I'll buy a new starter since I don't want it to get worse and I'll get new battery cables, so hopefully it'll start like a champ right after I rebuild the carb.
#31
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
My starter grinds occasionally as well. Turns out its the way I hold the key in the ignition. If I hold
it one way, the start spins but the solenoid doesn't engage all the way. If I change how I
hold it, starts every time. I assume I have an issue in the ignition switch which I redid 20 years
ago but it may be time to do it again maybe.
it one way, the start spins but the solenoid doesn't engage all the way. If I change how I
hold it, starts every time. I assume I have an issue in the ignition switch which I redid 20 years
ago but it may be time to do it again maybe.
#32
Full Member
Thread Starter
Well I've been doing some research and found that if the car is cranking but won't start then it's most likely not a starter problem? The starter is much, much slower when starting warm rather than cold. I'm confused and I could just keep throwing money at this thing before I actually find the problem. I'm starting to think it's the engine but all signs point to the starter. Also when im driving i have to rev it to 4k or past it to get any sort of acceleration which could just be a crappy port job. It isn't slow just annoying to turn onto busy roads. I'll probably just buy a starter and if that doesn't fix then I'll start saving for a beater so I can rebuild the car. Any thoughts?
#33
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I hate to say it but post 17 predicted this 1 month ago.
Getting a beater thats cheap and reliable is a good decision unless you can't afford both. Then you
need to really sit down with yourself and determine the future of you and your rx7.
Getting a beater thats cheap and reliable is a good decision unless you can't afford both. Then you
need to really sit down with yourself and determine the future of you and your rx7.
#34
Full Member
Thread Starter
I do need a beater, probably save so much more money haha. But anyways I believe I found the problem. I was powerfoaming my carb and I realized that in the one primary? (It's the bigger one) the foam wasn't getting past the butterfly. I finished up and shut off the car, waited fifteen minutes and went out and started the car, which actually started but didn't want to I had to floor the pedal and let it crank for 5 or so seconds. It was idling crappy, which is what I expected for a bit at first. But it kept idling crappy so I reopened the top hat and fuel or power foam was built up above the butterfly. Took it for a short drive and ran it out and the butterfly opened up and it idled fine at 1k. Any ideas of how to fix this? I've been eyeing the weber side draft and am probably going to get that since I'll need to rebuild the nikki anyway, why not upgrade to something more simple. I think the lack of fuel on startup and a slow starter combined is my problem.
Pics should be chronological order from left to right.
Pics should be chronological order from left to right.
Last edited by Tylerx7fb; 06-15-15 at 08:39 PM. Reason: No pics, no bueno
#36
Full Member
Thread Starter
Ok guys, so I'm throwing a lot of speculation at this problem and it's probably stupid and a waste of time. But it could also save me money.
Previous post, completely stupid haha they weren't even the primaries and I doubt that's my problem now.
I was looking around other threads and someone brought up something about this cable that is part of the throttle cable that should be attached to some linkage. In which case mine is not. I believe it's for the choke. Maybe that's not the problem since it's probably been detached this whole time. I'll reattach it tomorrow and see if it changes anything but it could've fallen off at some point
Btw no more gas tank pressure since I fixed my thermostat. Car also started fine after washing it. Drove 30 mins home turned off and washed it. Turned back on, it struggled, then I shut it off a couple mins later. Went to turn back on to pull into garage but left the ignition on for 20 seconds before starting and it fired right up. I don't even know if the fuel pump comes on with the ignition, I can't hear it.
Just reread this post and I sound like an absolute idiot, don't worry guys I'm a professional
Previous post, completely stupid haha they weren't even the primaries and I doubt that's my problem now.
I was looking around other threads and someone brought up something about this cable that is part of the throttle cable that should be attached to some linkage. In which case mine is not. I believe it's for the choke. Maybe that's not the problem since it's probably been detached this whole time. I'll reattach it tomorrow and see if it changes anything but it could've fallen off at some point
Btw no more gas tank pressure since I fixed my thermostat. Car also started fine after washing it. Drove 30 mins home turned off and washed it. Turned back on, it struggled, then I shut it off a couple mins later. Went to turn back on to pull into garage but left the ignition on for 20 seconds before starting and it fired right up. I don't even know if the fuel pump comes on with the ignition, I can't hear it.
Just reread this post and I sound like an absolute idiot, don't worry guys I'm a professional
Last edited by Tylerx7fb; 06-21-15 at 09:24 PM.
#39
My job is to blow **** up
iTrader: (8)
reminds me of first grade... this girl couldn't get how having 2 cookies and then receiving 3 more cookies brings her total cookies to 5.. she couldn't grasp adding... i was just like take this bitch out in the field and put her down, she ain't no good.
the original poster would be better off in a FC.. or better yet, just get a miata...
Last edited by lastphaseofthis; 06-21-15 at 10:28 PM.
#40
Full Member
Thread Starter
omg i know right.
reminds me of first grade... this girl couldn't get how having 2 cookies and then receiving 3 more cookies brings her total cookies to 5.. she couldn't grasp adding... i was just like take this bitch out in the field and put her down, she ain't no good.
the original poster would be better off in a FC.. or better yet, just get a miata...
reminds me of first grade... this girl couldn't get how having 2 cookies and then receiving 3 more cookies brings her total cookies to 5.. she couldn't grasp adding... i was just like take this bitch out in the field and put her down, she ain't no good.
the original poster would be better off in a FC.. or better yet, just get a miata...
#41
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: little river sc.
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hot start
on the rx-8 when the side seals start to go it takes longer to start dew to low compression. a faster starter helps but is just a temp short fix. unlike rings on a piston engine the seals do not expand when hot. therefor you have low compression until it cools down. ask me how I know...
#42
Full Member
Thread Starter
on the rx-8 when the side seals start to go it takes longer to start dew to low compression. a faster starter helps but is just a temp short fix. unlike rings on a piston engine the seals do not expand when hot. therefor you have low compression until it cools down. ask me how I know...
I tried moving the teeter totter thing while it was idling, it didn't do anything but I haven't connected it permanently yet.
When I was trying to fix my blinker issue I found something that might be noteworthy. I found a connection that runs to the distributor disconnected in the area exactly where the my belt flew to when it broke. Which after it broke, is when I started having problems.
I'll clean all connections, grounds, etc dealing with the starter and engine. If that doesn't speed up the starter I'll get a new one or try adding another ground. Then I'll go from there.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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07-01-23 04:40 PM